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I am looking for the goods and the bads of what you have built for your loader benches. I have cleaned out a room, 11x23, and am wanting to build a bench and shelveing for all the stuff that we end up with. My floor is concrete, walls are textured sheetrock. I am putting in 2x2 rubber tiles for flooring and coming up from there.
Looking for suggestions.

Thanks Mike
 

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The sturdier the better. Make sure whatever you use for the bench it can hold an elephant. Its not so much the weight of the loader but you need a good solid base for consistent powder drops.

Matt
 

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I have a set of plans for an exceptionally sturdy loading bench here somewhere. I can scan them, if I can find them, to pdf. and email them to you if you desire. Jimmy Borum
 

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Mike,

Check this link out: http://www.rifleshootermag.com/ammunition/benchs_022607/

Let me know if you end up building this.

Samer
 

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pkup a damaged 3'0 door slab from your local lumber yard. That makes a dandy counter and is sturdy. If it's too short you can get two and put them together.
The only downside is when/if you bore a hole for shells to fall thru. You end up with the soft particule board center. I just used some gorilla glue to fix the problem. You could also sleeve it with PVC.

Good luck in your adventure.

Rick in Mt.
 

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Remember this:

<center><I>Junk accumullates in direct proportion to the space available to store it.</I></blockquote></center>

MK
 

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Plan on attaching the bench to the wall behind it. It will make the bench a lot more rigid.

I like to use a cabinet style base with drawers and doors and a heavy duty top. Kitchen counter top is o.k. Better yet is a solid 1-1/2" door.

Decide if you want a stand up bench of a sit down bench. If you are using a hydraulic or electric drive you may want to consider a sit down bench with no drawers or doors where you sit.

Jim Skeel
 

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Since were on the subject of reloading benches, I was loading today with my Mec 9000H and the thought came to me that I need to do something with the primer drop area so I don't have to constantly have to empty it. I've seen some pictures on here of Mec reloading setups with PVC for dropping the primers. Any thought and suggestions. A picture of your setup would be helpful.
 

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My frame is made of 4x4's and 2x6's. It has a bottom shelf which aids stability. The top is made of a layer of 2x8's screwed to the framing, a layer of 3/4" plywood screwed and glued to the 2x8s, and a layer of 3/16 hard board glued to the plywood.

The whole bench is secured to the back wall via lag bolts.

It is rock sturdy, and would probably support an elephant.
 

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I went to a surplus sale at the local gov sale and got a library table. Its about 8 feet long and close to 3 feet wide. Its about 2 plus inches thick. Its heavy and does not move at all when reloading. It cost me $35.00. I couldn't buy the lumber for that let alone the time to put it together.
 

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A solid office desk, wooden table, workbench, solid wooden door, or anything you can find and modify that is solid enough to do the job. I use a couple of heavy office desks for my primary benches. Old but sturdy.
 

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30" deep by 8' ft long and 36" to 40" high.

2x4 legs with upper frame of 2"x6" rear and side and 2"x4" front (a reason for that) The frame should be 3" on front and back and 6" sides less than overall length (for overhang)

lower frame of 2x4 all the way. Lower fram should provide enough room for clearance from the upper 2x4 frame member and a 3/4" ply resting on top of the lower frame to allow a dollar store 66 qt plastic container (for shotgun shells) to slide in

everything BOLTED.

Top should be 3/4 inch ply topped by a 3/4 inch med or high density particle board (replaceable). The top particle board should be routed all the way around by a V or U shaped trough (1/4 to 3/8 deep)1 inch in from the edge and on the left end or right end a 3/8" hole bored through. Thats for collecting those 3 or 4 BB's that you may spill on your table when you pull the lever without a shell under the shot drop.
 

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Consider using a kitchen cabinet drawer section or two with a section of Formica counter top.

Used cabinets can be had from any Habitat for Humanity depot for a few bucks. $50 will buy the new countertop. I am partial to the butcherblock lookin' formica. It looks good and doesn't show scratches very much.

I have had several formica top benches in my shop for years, they clean up very well with spray cleaners or acetone for the stuborn stuff.

Randy
 

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I built one using the plans Unknown1 posted from Shotgun Sports. You don't need to bolt that one to the wall. If you make it using the exact plans and don't substitute any materials, you had better build it in the room where it will be used. It's huge and heavy. It won't fit through any normal door and two of us struggled to get it into position even though it only had to go a couple of feet.
 

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Sprinklerman(Mark)--That is the most hidious looking loading benches i have ever seen. Just Joking- I mean it looks better than my Kitchen cabinets and countertops. Nice work. I'd be scared to drill holes to mount my loaders on something that nice.

Matt
 

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Rastoff is right about the Shotgun Sports bench being "substantial". And he's right about building it in place if you can.

I built mine using a 1½ solid core oak veneer office door as the top. I didn't need the front edge construction the plans call for because I didn't use ¾" plywood for the top. That makes the frame narrow enough to fit through a 32" door and the top and shelves can be attached after the frame is in place. I used a 3" top overhang on the sides and front.

MK
 
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