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Discussion Starter #1
So here it is a nice Sunday afternoon and I decide that I am going to install a new J&P mainspring in my BT-99 Plus. Removal was a bit interesting but not to hard to do. Now comes the install. The first thing I noticed was the J&P spring was a half inch longer than the stock spring, maybe because it's brand new. So I start to install the new spring and there is no way I can compress it that much to slide it past the point of entry without the spring bending one way or the other. So I beg the question." What is the trick to installing this main spring?" How do you keep the spring stable to compress it. Or is it easier to send it to the pros.
I want a crisp trigger and I figured that a 20 year old main springs gotta be weak.


Thanks for your input



George Ware
 

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those springs are the best ive ever used in my gun and Brownells makes a tool that looks sort of like a screw driver and it is a main spring tool to install it. my dad has used other tool but its taken hours and its harmful
 

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I have changed the springs in both my BT-100's & 99 with a "tack puller" you can buy it in the hardware for under $3 and looks basically like the tool listed. It's a screwdriver with a forked blade.
 

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hmb, He has just used the wrong word. I put Jim's springs in mine. Big difference. The new spring has a lot more snap. The hammer is faster now, quicker lock time. The top lever spring is stiffer also. The new spring is a little longer and harder to install. It can't be installed without a tool.

I made a tool out of a 5/32" welding rod. I cut off six inches and beat the coating off of it. Drilled a hole 1/8" deep in the end of the rod and put it in a file handle. Put the rod through the hole in the trigger housing and press against the rear of the mainspring guide. This keeps everything in line while you compress the spring and insert it in place.

Jim's springs are a big improvement. I will never use the factory springs again.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
For those who put up the Brownells tool you have the wrong tool. That tool is for an over and under main spring on a browning and I do have that tool amongest others. The problem I'm having is trying to stablize that spring and get it in there. I was using a 6D common nail. So according to Jerry P I'm on the right track just need a little more muscle and a longer stablizing rod. I'm guessing I don't have to trim anything off the spring.

Thanks Guys



George Ware
 

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George--Thanks and i'll remove it to prevent any confusion.---Matt
 

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Don't cut the spring, you will ruin it. Yes, you will need a better tool so you can hold it in place. You need a longer tool with a handle and a hole in the end so it won't slip off the end of the mainspring quide. It would help to have a third hand. One to hold the tool and two to get mainspring guide into place. Keep at it, it is a little tricky to do.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well Jerry it worked. I don't know how but after the thrid try it went in I ened up using an old Torex screw driver and drilling the countersink in that. It wasn't pretty but it went in. I did notice a better trigger lock. I am shooting tonight and will see if was a proper install.

Thanks for the info



George Ware
 

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Have you installed the new J&P top lever spring also? If you have never done it, there is an insert in the end of the spring that rides against the top lever dog. When you pry out the spring that insert will vanish. Hold a rag over the spring to retain that insert. Maybe even get in a shower encloser when you pop out the spring.
 

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Sounds like the seller who markets the springs might create and sell an inexpensive tool to go with them to help installation. The following suggestion - "Maybe even get in a shower incloser when you pop out the spring." sounds like a good one...with my luck, the insert would just find its way to the drain. Regards, Ed
 
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