+1 on the Jasco. I stripped a Browning and a Beretta with that stuff. It is paint and epoxy remover. Good idea on the Al foil. I used a rag and let it soak. The clear coat literally feel off.
As a caution, make sure to wear thick chemical proof gloves. That stuff will melt surgical gloves right off your hand and fast. It also burns when you get it on your skin. Eye protection goes without saying.
I have an older Browning lightning 20 gauge that is a salt gun.This is the one with the cross screw thru the forearm. Took 3 months to get it out after extensive soaking in every penetrating oil known to mankind. Including KROIL. It had that shiny finish. Since the gun was in rough shape ,I decided to redo and experiment with the salt and finish issue. I used ZINNSER power stripper spray. It took two or there applications but all the finish came off . I found that you have to follow the time directions. leaving it on too long and it had a tendency to dry. I used a plastic body putty applicator and plastic putty knife to scape it off. After I finished I washed in hot water and let dry for several days. For the little tough areas I used a stiff industrial ( Harbor Freight ) plastic type tooth brush. I sanded it after it dried and finished with Tru Oil. I also tried using SALT AWAY, a product I use on my boat and soaked the wood for three days to try and draw out the salt cure. Washed again and soaked in water and let it dry. I actually did that before the refinish part. Before I reassembled, I coated the inside and any wood areas in contact with metal with WEST epoxy thinned 5% with acetone to help flow, I beat this gun up pretty bad when I hunted, so I was not afraid of hurting it. I also found a used stock for $1200, but I was not about to invest in a restock. I derusted the areas and cold blued the parts , used moly lube on the internals and it is back together and looks pretty good. How long the metal/wood stays this way is yet to be determined. USE RUBBER GLOVES.
My 1976 Citori must have been a fluke as it was really easy to refinish. I just wish I had a way to post some after pics. Covered all checkering with blue painter's tape as it was in great condition and I did not want to impair that. I used Jasco remover - painted it on and left it for about 20 minutes. Used a plastic scraper to remove the loosened material. Repeated this 2-3 times. Cleaned up remaining residue with mineral spirits. Next step was to sand with 220 grit to remove all remaining finish and stain to expose bare wood, then final sand with 600 grit. A hot iron and soaked towel lifted some minor dents while others had to be sanded or filled with wood filler. I stained with Minwax "Provincial" tone stain as it was pretty close to the original color. Still have another coat of stain to do. Am overspraying the wood with Minwax Polystain in Walnut - both stain and urethane in one shot. Will do 3-4 coats lightly sanding with 600 or 1,000 grit between coats. Polystain is meant for interior surfaces, so I may use a final spray coat or 2 of Minwax Spar Urethane for better exterior use protection, just don't want to get too many layers built up.
Ok; I have refinished at least 10 browning stocks and fore ends so far. I would stay far away from chemical strippers, they tend take out the natural oils in the stock. The easiest way to get to the wood is to use the screen that the they use to remove the spakel or plaster. Just rub until it loads up and tap the screen on the bench and continue to use. When you get down to the wood use 100 grit, and when you are satisfied wet the wood and heat gun until dry. Then use 200 grit, re wet, dry, and re sand.. Just my experience removing that horrible finish.. Joe