Talk to one of your local furniture refinishers.

 

Automotive/Aircraft paint stripper -plastic scraper and tooth brush. Wash the wood in soapy water after all coating is off. Let dry for several days….

 

I know your pain. Had a BT and I had time for a project. OMG. I also tried many different strippers. Finally got enough off to sand myself. Finished with Boiled Linseed and beautiful . BUT never again on a Browning........

 

Thanks this is like baby steps. I'll try auto stripper next.

 

I just stripped an XT stock and forearm. It took a little over an hour. I don't know what the size of the container the Jasco came in but I would guess a quart. I used half a new can. I have no idea why you would wrap it in plastic and let it set. I slop it on with a paint brush, wait about 2 minutes then start scrapping it off with an old credit card. Some areas you may have to do 3 or 4 times but it works good. Clean out the checkering with a stiff toothbrush and lots of Jasco.
For me the Browning finishes are one of the easier ones to remove. The old Remington finishes were a pain and so were the original Anton finishes.

 

I just stripped an XT stock and forearm. It took a little over an hour. I don't know what the size of the container the Jasco came in but I would guess a quart. I used half a new can. I have no idea why you would wrap it in plastic and let it set. I slop it on with a paint brush, wait about 2 minutes then start scrapping it off with an old credit card. Some areas you may have to do 3 or 4 times but it works good. Clean out the checkering with a stiff toothbrush and lots of Jasco.
For me the Browning finishes are one of the easier ones to remove. The old Remington finishes were a pain and so were the original Anton finishes.

I think I might be in The Twilight Zone here. You are the first guy I’ve ever heard say it’s easy. Kudos to you! My experience was way different. I don’t intend to do that again.

 

I've had to use the back of a hacksaw blade to scrape off gloss varnishes before (smooth side of the blade) it works way quicker and less messier than any removers I've used. Just back drag with it until it's all off, I can usually do one in about 20 minutes then lightly sand.
This advice was given to me by an expert oil finish stock maker and refinisher

 

Hard gloss finishes are notoriously difficult to strip. I've refinished guitars that took several coats of the most aggressive product I could buy without CIA clearance.

IMHO a very light scoring in advance of the product helps. Even a Scotchbrite pad will make inroads that will help the product penetrate.

 

Now you are talking!

 

3M quick attachment “Roloc” Scotch-Brite type pads will quickly remove a hard surface finish. Designed for metal, auto body and paint work, the Browning finish won’t be an issue to quickly remove. The unknown composition hard finish on the side of this stock came off in well under 10 minutes. Pads come in different grits or coarse and medium. With a light touch there is minor removal of wood. The 2” pads on this little die grinder work well.

 

Certistrip Industrial stripper has worked the best for me. it even removes Remington's Epoxy Finish.

http://www.lubeoilcompany.com/files/certified/product-data-sheets/Certistrip.pdf

 

Regardless of the chemical, start with drywall screens to cut through the epoxy fast, just make sure to protect the checkering. I cut all sorts of custom sized scrapers from a roll of flashing material to finish things up near the end of the process.

If I had to do one again, I’d take it to a furniture refinisher and pay them to strip it, then take it from there.

 

Guess I’ll have to try that stuff. From all my research, folks kept saying due to idiots with attorneys, they quit making the good stuff. Guess I was mistaken.

 

They did stop making the real good stuff (Methylene chloride). To many people stripping bath tubs against the recommendations, and passing out with their heads below the rims, until they stopped breathing. Forced ventilation was key.

 

KS-5 is right.
We were in Lowes yesterday so I picked up a can of the Jasco stripper. Went out this morning and was going to strip that BT-99 stock and forearm. The new stuff is useless. I worked for an hour and never did get through the Browning finish. The wife went through our paint supplies and found me a can of the Old Jasco stripper and I was done in about and hour.
I called the Jasco consumer line and ended up talking to the company Vice-President of what ever department and after we got over the company standard line he started asking me questions. They do have another stripper and he is going to test it on wood finishes. He asked me where he could get something to test it on and he is going to order a couple forearms from Midwest. He didn't say but I'm guessing the stuff he is going to test must be some industrial product they sell.

 

Once you try scraping it off with a back of a hacksaw blade or even a back of a thin bladed knife you'll never mess with chemical strippers again.
It doesn't scar up the wood like you think it sands out easily

 

I still have a half gallon of the old stuff. It works!

 

Why not careful sanding?

 

It can take forever to sand through a hard coat.

 

What about Citristrip?

 

Scuff it up with sand paper then about submerge the stuff in good stripper. That being said I guess there’s a lot of bum products out there. I’m not familiar with the bum ones not even familiar with which ones are which now they change the damn much. The good ones smell strong and skim over fast. Takes about a hr use a tub size of stock dump it in and brush it all over stock try to get it 1/4 thick. You won’t be able to but try then your doing it right.

 

Use sandpaper, nothing wrong with a little work,.. just be careful around sharp corners, no mess to clean-up either.

 

Many years ago there was an article in the NRA magazine removing finish from stocks. The guy used EASY OFF oven cleaner. Strip the stock of all furniture plastic & metal. Take it outside spray it liberally with the cleaner let it sit 10 or 15 minutes. Have a bucket of hot soapy water handy and a brush like tire brush use it vigorish you may have give several treatments.let dry overnight at this point the nap on the wood. Will ha e raised use steel wool to remove the nap the use tack cloth and you're ready. P.S. don't forget the rubber gloves & goggles. Good luck.

 

Use a piece of glass with a straight edge works same as hacksaw blade but no flex works great and fast

 

Thanks I'll try that next time.

 

The orange Citristrip form any big box store will take that stuff right off.

 

I’m reading these posts and laughing to myself. I stripped and refinished an old Pigeon Grade. Strippers today are watered down. Don’t believe me? Do a google search. Nothing about it is easy. I worked on mine off and on for a week sanding, sealing and finishing. And I know what I’m doing. Just be prepared for a lot of work. Take it slow and easy and you will do a good job. There’s a reason the professionals charge what they charge. I wouldn’t do it again unless I was forced to. I’d gladly pay a professional.