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Browning Citori recoil reset trigger basics

10427 Views 38 Replies 12 Participants Last post by  ishoottrap
I put together a short video describing the operation of the recoil reset Citori trigger:

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks. Nice explanation and video for the non 725 version. The 725 Citori would be different.
The 725 has an extra piece that pivots from the rear of the frame and is propelled upwards by the main springs. It basically moves the connector rearward mechanically, kind of a cop-out at making a real mechanical reset trigger and it shows, there is no end to folks who have issues with theirs. If I get one in I'll do a video on it, here's Browning's propaganda piece.

 

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I know there are many threads on the 725. They work pretty much the same as the old Citori. It still requires recoil to reset the inertia block to actually be able to fire the second round. If you think they are mechanical because you can dry fire it and it will snap, snap, try firing 410 tubes in the 12ga and see if it will reset, it will not. It takes considerable work from a knowledgeable person to perform the trigger work to allow light loads to be fired in a Browning 725. Even then there is a better than even chance it could double. The video above shows the original setup of the 725, later they changed some parts and added a bulge to the hammer spring to force the inertia block over. Here are some pics of the two. Regards, Bob
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I know there are many threads on the 725. They work pretty much the same as the old Citori. It still requires recoil to reset the inertia block to actually be able to fire the second round. If you think they are mechanical because you can dry fire it and it will snap, snap, try firing 410 tubes in the 12ga and see if it will reset, it will not. It takes considerable work from a knowledgeable person to perform the trigger work to allow light loads to be fired in a Browning 725. Even then there is a better than even chance it could double. The video above shows the original setup of the 725, later they changed some parts and added a bulge to the hammer spring to force the inertia block over. Here are some pics of the two. Regards, Bob
View attachment 1729607 View attachment 1729608
"It still requires recoil to reset the inertia block to actually be able to fire the second round." This isn't quite the whole story, if it were, the gun wouldn't dry fire both barrels and it does. I think that the amount of momentum imparted to the gun from a .410 is just enough so that as the jnertia block/connector has started rearward from the action of the disconnector striking the inertia block, the gun "catches up" with the block and the first sear stays perched on the center shelf of the connector. As you note, there is no mechanical link or geometry that forces the sear off the connector so if the gun moves the sear rearward near the end of the inertia block's stroke, the sear will not fall off the shelf. Sure would be fun to see a high speed video of this occurring.

-Scot
 

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I have a mid 1980’s production Browning Citori 12 ga. When I started shooting competitive skeet I had the gun fit with a set of sub gauge Kolar tubes. When shooting the .410 there was sporadic failure to fire because the trigger didn’t “reset” after the first shot. It didn’t make any difference if I fired the top or the bottom barrel it was the same issue. Not often, probably 5 times or less in a hundred rounds. I couldn't determine if I was failing to let off of the trigger far enough between shots, I wasn’t holding the stock tight enough to cause sufficient recoil to reset the trigger, or there was another issue.

My friend told me to give him the gun and he’d return it in a week after solving the ”problem.” When he gave the gun back to me he told me to open and close the action to cock the gun.
(no shell chambered). He then told me to pull the trigger twice slowly or quickly - no matter. The trigger fired both upper and lower barrels without a hitch. Even though I know it’s not a mechanical trigger it now functions exactly like one. I can only assume he manipulated the internal springs on the inertia block(s).

I believe Briley, when selling their custom fitted tube sets, does something along the same lines to make the .410 firing reliable. Of course, they charge an extra fee to do that. YMMV.

i should add, I probably have at least 10,000 or more rounds thru the gun shooting the .410 and have never had a malfunction or a fan fire.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I have a mid 1980’s production Browning Citori 12 ga. When I started shooting competitive skeet I had the gun fit with a set of sub gauge Kolar tubes. When shooting the .410 there was sporadic failure to fire because the trigger didn’t “reset” after the first shot. It didn’t make any difference if I fired the top or the bottom barrel it was the same issue. Not often, probably 5 times or less in a hundred rounds. I couldn't determine if I was failing to let off of the trigger far enough between shots, I wasn’t holding the stock tight enough to cause sufficient recoil to reset the trigger, or there was another issue.

My friend told me to give him the gun and he’d return it in a week after solving the ”problem.” When he gave the gun back to me he told me to open and close the action to cock the gun.
(no shell chambered). He then told me to pull the trigger twice slowly or quickly - no matter. The trigger fired both upper and lower barrels without a hitch. Even though I know it’s not a mechanical trigger it now functions exactly like one. I can only assume he manipulated the internal springs on the inertia block(s).

I believe Briley, when selling their custom fitted tube sets, does something along the same lines to make the .410 firing reliable. Of course, they charge an extra fee to do that. YMMV.

i should add, I probably have at least 10,000 or more rounds thru the gun shooting the .410 and have never had a malfunction or a fan fire.
The mod most likely was grinding off the front corner of the center surface on the link. I've seen this done, it causes the sear to force the link and recoil block rearward as the link lifts the sear. It would be interesting to see a photo of your link if you ever have your stock off.

I've hesitated to make this mod as a little wear can cause the link to slip rearward and off the sear without lifting it, sounds like you've had excellent results on your gun.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
There is a spring in the top of the trigger that connects to the link, order a 410 spring from Browning and install the 410 spring and the trigger will reset with 410 tubes. This has been done on many Citori tube sets or with companion tubes.
The spring is #104 in this snip of a schematic. Yes, that's common but will not produce the action described by amboy49 where he can now dry fire both barrels with no recoil at all.

1730924

The mod I've seen looks like this where the front corner of the center shelf on the connector is angled (probably with a little radius on that upper corner). It truly turns the trigger into a mechanical reset as the sear falls free from the center shelf as the trigger pull continues after the sear releases the hammer. The trick is to take off only the minimum required to make this happen as a little too much and the center shelf will disengage by forcing the connecter rearward due to the angle and never lift the sear enough to cause the gun to fire:

1730926
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Another modification I have seen is for a curved wire welded to the hammers so when the first barrel is fired it flips the sear to the second barrel.

I believe this is how Kolar modified Citoris in the early 90s.
I've not seen that but have thought that a "tail" on the sear would be an effective way to accomplish the reset. Since the sear rotates as the back is raised, a tail extending downwards would rotate rearward and could "push" the connector away from the sear until the sear was free to drop away. This seems like it could be very effective, thanks for posting.
 

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Excellent video and explanations. I bought briley tubes for my 725 and had to send receiver to briley for modification to fire the 410 and 28 gauge. They would not say what they did and I could not see any modification that they did before putting my stock back on. Works great now, Cost was 200 dollars plus shipping and insurance. Question for ishoottrap; are you a gunsmith? If so, where are you located ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Excellent video and explanations. I bought briley tubes for my 725 and had to send receiver to briley for modification to fire the 410 and 28 gauge. They would not say what they did and I could not see any modification that they did before putting my stock back on. Works great now, Cost was 200 dollars plus shipping and insurance. Question for ishoottrap; are you a gunsmith? If so, where are you located ?
Thanks for asking. I have a small part time gunsmith business but it's been largely inactive for years; kids and then a change in job but at 63, I'm starting to weigh my options for transitioning out of professional life (engineering) to a bit more relaxed mode and it's a near certainty that I'll be "hanging out the shingle" again, just don't know when exactly.
 

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Thanks, my daughter's Citori double or fan fired (not sure) this weekend,

this video is a great explanation on what's happening in there,
 

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I put together a short video describing the operation of the recoil reset Citori trigger:


This is a great tutorial on the operation of the mechanism. I have a brand new Browning Special Edition Sporting that I have run about 200 rounds through. All of a sudden it will not cycle to the second barrel. I thought I may be trapping the trigger, but even when I release the trigger completely it will not engage the second seer. I took the stock off and it appears that after the first shot the inertia block does not return far enough forward to allow the back shelf to engage the second seer. Is there a spring that is supposed to draw the block up against the seer? This picture is of the trigger assembly. This is as far as the block will move forward after the first barrel is "fired". Any info you could give me would be greatly appreciated.
1764963
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
This is a great tutorial on the operation of the mechanism. I have a brand new Browning Special Edition Sporting that I have run about 200 rounds through. All of a sudden it will not cycle to the second barrel. I thought I may be trapping the trigger, but even when I release the trigger completely it will not engage the second seer. I took the stock off and it appears that after the first shot the inertia block does not return far enough forward to allow the back shelf to engage the second seer. Is there a spring that is supposed to draw the block up against the seer? This picture is of the trigger assembly. This is as far as the block will move forward after the first barrel is "fired". Any info you could give me would be greatly appreciated. View attachment 1764963
Yes, there is a spring. Here is your photo with some annotation:
1764972



And here is a schematic with reference points labeled:
1764971


I think it's likely that something is in the slot in the frame where the trigger resides behind the tree. If you have compressed air, blow from the back of the trigger, outside of the frame into the area labeled in the photo or perhaps poke around in that slot with some soft tool like plastic. If that doesn't do it, I'd remove the trigger shoe and guard (punch out the trigger guard retaining pin, pull down on the rear of the trigger guard and rotate 90 deg. and it will drop out of the frame) and have a look in there. If it is a problem with the return spring/plunger, you'll have to remove the trigger pivot pin and the strut pivot pin and as well as the mainsprings to get the tree assembly out of the frame.

Let me know how it goes.

-Scot
 

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Yes, there is a spring. Here is your photo with some annotation:
View attachment 1764972


And here is a schematic with reference points labeled:
View attachment 1764971

I think it's likely that something is in the slot in the frame where the trigger resides behind the tree. If you have compressed air, blow from the back of the trigger, outside of the frame into the area labeled in the photo or perhaps poke around in that slot with some soft tool like plastic. If that doesn't do it, I'd remove the trigger shoe and guard (punch out the trigger guard retaining pin, pull down on the rear of the trigger guard and rotate 90 deg. and it will drop out of the frame) and have a look in there. If it is a problem with the return spring/plunger, you'll have to remove the trigger pivot pin and the strut pivot pin and as well as the mainsprings to get the tree assembly out of the frame.

Let me know how it goes.

-Scot
Thank You for the quick and detailed response. I will try the compressed air shortly. If you don’t hear from me for a little while I moved on to plan B😉
 

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Thank You for the quick and detailed response. I will try the compressed air shortly. If you don’t hear from me for a little while I moved on to plan B😉
Thank You for the quick and detailed response. I will try the compressed air shortly. If you don’t hear from me for a little while I moved on to plan B😉
no luck with the compressed air. I can push the block up against the seers, but it just falls back to that same position you see. I’ll take it apart when I get a chance and get back to you. Thanks again.
 
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