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Discussion Starter #1
I have an awesome 725 trap that I acquired 2nd hand about a year ago. I don’t believe it had been shot a lot prior to my ownership, but enough that the action works smooth, and the owner had installed a Gracoil unit. I have probably shot 3-4000 rounds through it with no issues

my question: I read a lot of things relating to thee firing pins. I do shoot mostly Rio and Aquila shells and have had no problems. I am considering a proactive change of the firing pins. Do you all recommend replacing with OEM pins or using an after market kit. Considering the kit from JP Products. Would like to hear your experience with this. Am shooting my first registered shoot at the Spring Grand, and I would like to avoid a problem
 

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Welcome to TS.com.

As the proud owner of a 725 that I bought NIB, I have replaced the OEM pins and springs with the J&P kit. I had considerable pitting on mostly the lower OEM barrel pin. The possibility that it pierces the primer as opposed to ding it seemed worth changing it out. That was after ~5K rounds.

I just did it again this year. Now about 12K rounds. The pin was so-so, the bottom spring was compressed about the diameter of one coil.

My primary shell is Estate SS or the Federal equivalent.
 

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I have a 725 that has approx 3000 rounds , new last summer, I have installed the JP kit trying to be proactive as I read alot also like you about the 725 pins. To be honest the only noticeable difference to me was the lock up spring is Heavier duty. I installed about a month ago on a snowy afternoon. went well, and I got to give it a good cleaning and now I will keep springs and pins in my shooting bag in case I need down the road in a pinch.
 
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Discussion Starter #4
Welcome to TS.com.

As the proud owner of a 725 that I bought NIB, I have replaced the OEM pins and springs with the J&P kit. I had considerable pitting on mostly the lower OEM barrel pin. The possibility that it pierces the primer as opposed to ding it seemed worth changing it out. That was after ~5K rounds.

I just did it again this year. Now about 12K rounds. The pin was so-so, the bottom spring was compressed about the diameter of one coil.

My primary shell is Estate SS or the Federal equivalent.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So, there were about 7000 rounds on the JPProducts pins when you replaced them? I am surprised the JP spring was compressed. They are supposed to be pretty top shelf. You put JP back in this time too?
 

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Yes, about 7K rounds on my first set of J&P, and I replaced it with the same thing. It was more of a routine maintenance plus a little of my obsessive-compulsive (OCD) nature. I did NOT measure the actual amount of spring compression, but it was noticeable to the naked eye.
 

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I order from Browning. Their prices are cheap for parts. Check website link below. While you are at it, get the lower pin spring and some mainsprings and a couple of spare firing pins and firing pin retaining pins to help cover the postal shipping. Part #s:

B1334168
B1334164
B1334148
B1334157
B133800054 (gen2 has bulge in middle).

https://www.browning.com/content/da...ice-list/parts/2013/12-arn-432-citori-725.pdf
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for the feedback. This thread allowed me to see many others I. Support of the JP pin kit. I ordered one. Thanks
 

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My sons 725 was having light strikes shortly after I bought it brand new. I bought the JP kit and have never had a problem since. Not sure of the round count now but it is quite a few and still going strong.
 

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My son and I both shoot 725's
Shooting mixed shells with both guns our lower pins pitted around 5k rounds.
I went and installed the JP pin and spring kit in both guns along with a through cleaning of the receiver pin guides.
The lower JP pins began pitting immediately and were much worse than the stock pins after 500-1k rounds.
I removed the lowers again and shortened them .005" at the tip to remove the pitting.
We then also switched to shooting primarily Gun Clubs because they are cheap locally, no more pierced primers.
With the shorted pins I still get occasional pierced primers when shooting cheap hard primer shells, usually at charity events.
Overall I think the JP parts are good quality, most likely there is manufacturing variances in the receiver pin guides allowing the pins to extend too deep in to the primer. Hard primers pierce and soft primers function well.
I am going to shorten my lower pins again and see if I can find a balance of pin length that will not pierce cheap primers.
Otherwise choose to only shoot better shells or change and clean pins often.
 

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My son and I both shoot 725's
Shooting mixed shells with both guns our lower pins pitted around 5k rounds.
I went and installed the JP pin and spring kit in both guns along with a through cleaning of the receiver pin guides.
The lower JP pins began pitting immediately and were much worse than the stock pins after 500-1k rounds.
I removed the lowers again and shortened them .005" at the tip to remove the pitting.
We then also switched to shooting primarily Gun Clubs because they are cheap locally, no more pierced primers.
With the shorted pins I still get occasional pierced primers when shooting cheap hard primer shells, usually at charity events.
Overall I think the JP parts are good quality, most likely there is manufacturing variances in the receiver pin guides allowing the pins to extend too deep in to the primer. Hard primers pierce and soft primers function well.
I am going to shorten my lower pins again and see if I can find a balance of pin length that will not pierce cheap primers.
Otherwise choose to only shoot better shells or change and clean pins often.
that's what happens when you use cheap shells with euro trash primers in them
 

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My experience with the JP firing pins for Brownings was not that good. I replace a lot of FP's and tried the JP in several customers guns and mine as they were suppose to be harder. They did not last much longer that the stock Browning pins. For the cost of the JP you can buy almost three of the Browning pins. Have gone back the them for all replacements. The pins are easy to replace, I carry the tools and pins in my car and do a lot of replacements at the club for members. Yep, I use Chedite primers, can pay for a lot of FP's for the difference in cost over the Winchesters. My two cents worth. Regards, Bob
 

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I had Mark Gadbaw replace the factory pin in my daughters 725 and the replacement is longer but the action does work a little harder do to stronger springs, haven't had an issue since
 

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Changed from 725 factory to J&P pins a few months ago because the stock lower was pitted from some pierced Rio primers. Looking good so far, but did just have a couple of pierced Rio primers again...out of several hundred rounds...just a very minor mark on the lower pin under a 10x magnifying glass. Keeping an eye on it.
The people and products at J&P are great; I had used their springs on a 686 prior to the pin kit on the 725.
 

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Changed from 725 factory to J&P pins a few months ago because the stock lower was pitted from some pierced Rio primers. Looking good so far, but did just have a couple of pierced Rio primers again...out of several hundred rounds...just a very minor mark on the lower pin under a 10x magnifying glass. Keeping an eye on it.
The people and products at J&P are great; I had used their springs on a 686 prior to the pin kit on the 725.
Still got the old pin? If so chuck it in a drill and stone the tip down until the pitting is gone. Be sure to maintain the tip profile. Put it in and shoot some more RIO shells. Chances are it won’t pierce many more.
Bottom pin only. Top pin seldom has problems. Be sure you throughly clean the pin bore and that the return spring is in ship shape.
 

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I had a 425 and had the bottom barrel axle support break off. I sent it to Browning and they would do nothing as I had lengthened the forcing cones. In turn sent it to Art's. The gun had a silver receiver I was told was a nitride finish. Art's told me the nitride process can make parts brittle and the support was particularly thin, which I think lent to the failure. Also, however, I had used after market hammer springs (not JP ) and I believe this also contributed to the problem. Art's fixed the gun for what I consider a very good price ( and I am miserly to say the least).
I went back to factory firing pins and springs and had no further problems. Checked the springs periodically and replaced when shorter than new and even smoothed lower barrel firing pins when pitted without consequence.
I've gone back to Belguin Brownings and factory there also and they are as notorious for bottom barrel problems. I did note the last factory springs I got from Brownells seemed larger wire and the firing pins longer.
 

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Still got the old pin? If so chuck it in a drill and stone the tip down until the pitting is gone. Be sure to maintain the tip profile. Put it in and shoot some more RIO shells. Chances are it won’t pierce many more.
Bottom pin only. Top pin seldom has problems. Be sure you throughly clean the pin bore and that the return spring is in ship shape.
Thanks flashmax,
I did not keep the old pins, and yes, it is definitely the bottom pin that gets pitted, I guess because of the angle.
The pin bores were dirty, the rest of the action was clean. The J&P kit that I bought included the return spring.
 
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