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Browning 725 ejector

1771 Views 9 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  Velvet Ears
Hey guys. I broke an ejector today. It was actually the pin that keeps the ejector from flying out so the pin broke (lost and broken part still in the piece that flew out) and the other part of the pin lost. What do I order? Does the pin get replaced or is that part if the ejector?

also, a guy at my club has said these ejectors need a lot of work and machining to get back in. Any help would be appreciated.
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See schematic below. You need Part #30. It's a separate part that threads into the ejector itself. I've replaced several for customers at my local club in just the past few months.
If you're lucky, the broken-off portion that's still in the ejector can be unscrewed and removed . . . a dental pick or scribe sometimes works for this (or a screw extractor).
If you're further lucky, the female threads in the ejector aren't damaged = the replacement part will easily thread in.
But if the female threads are damaged, note that they are metric (M3.5 x 0.6). One guy I know successfully chased the damaged threads with the proper tap.
Unfortunately Midwest Gun Works is showing this part as Out of Stock right now. Other sources may hopefully have it.

And you're correct about the Ejector/Extractor itself. If you ever need that part replaced, it's usually a major job since a new one is typically supplied in the rough, plus the shell rim recess needs to be cut into it with the proper tooling.

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Rebuck33, we have this part(B1334114) in our inventory and we would be glad to ship it out to you on Monday.

Just send us a PM and we will get this out the same day. No cost.

Great job Tech Writer Jeff on the information(as always). John Trigger, thanks for your help with this as well

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I have replaced several of the extractor pins.
I find it easier to reinstall the ejector then ,using a dremel cut a slot in new pin. Just big enough for a small blade screw driver. Then a tiny dab of blue loctite to keep it snug.
 

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According to a smith at Browning this is the most common part that breaks. It is caused by seeing the full force of the ejector springs. These springs are quite stout and really fling the shells out. I changed these springs out in my 725 with 1911 firing pin return springs. No more worries about breaking that pin.
 

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I have replaced several of the extractor pins.
I find it easier to reinstall the ejector then ,using a dremel cut a slot in new pin. Just big enough for a small blade screw driver. Then a tiny dab of blue loctite to keep it snug.
Can you get these pins out proactively to replace them after XX thousands of rounds (since they appear to not have a slot from the factory) or is digging them out with a dental pick after they shear off, as tech writer Jeff says, the only way to remove them? Good idea on Dremel slot for the new one for install ease.
 

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My pin fell out (twice) The 2nd time I replaced it i put blue loctite on it, tightened with vice grips, and then pinned the backside. Hasn't came out yet.

Easy to change. Take the recessed screw out of the ejector, slide ejector out, put new pin in, slide ejector back in, tighten recessed screw. Takes about 3 minutes to do if the pin is already out. May take you longer since old one broke off.
 
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