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Discussion Starter #1
I'm wondering about large bore barrels & wad sealing. I had Wilkinson work my barrels & my gauge says bore to be .740. When I measure my Claybuster CB3118-12AR (12C1 replacement) wad diameter I get about .720. I only seem to have problems with paper cases, mostly Federal. Most shots are fine, but once in awhile I get a light load. When I inspect my barrel after such shot, I find alot of fouled/unburned powder residue. I still have 3-4 cases of the 12C1 wads that I have been saving, but wonder if these would work better. Does anyone have any experience with this issue or any ideas?
thanks, jim bauer
 

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I dont believe the bore of the gun is your suspect. My guess is that the wads are not sealing properly against the wall of the hull, and powder is either getting around the wad before the shot, or pressure is leaking out and around the the wad during the shot. if this only happens only once in awhile, I would say your hulls are starting to weaken. unlike plastic hulls, the more that a paper hull is shot the more of the inside wall is removed through wad abrasion and high temperature. paper huls are also notorius for "pin holing". small hole begin to form just above the brass of the hull and that allows alot of presure to escape and will cause an "off" shell. the reason I say its not the bore is because I have a beretta AL2 with a stan baker big-bore barrel. it has an inside diameter of .800. I have never had any trouble with any combination of powder, wad, or hull that ive tried, including paper hulls and CB3118-12AR. I would recommend checking each of your hulls before reloading and just confirm that your reloader is dropping appropriate powder and shot charges. hope i could help. BYG
 

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Discussion Starter #3
byg, thank you for your information. I heat my shells before I shoot them, mostly plastic hulls (they help keep my hands warm too). I've found this softens the hull & absorbs some recoil & I also think that the shells burn more efficiently. I have been warming my paper shells too & wonder if this softens the paper too much?
Next time out with the paper shells, I'm going to shoot them cold & see what happens.
 

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Cocked wads?
 

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Jim, I shoot Fed papers 90% of the time. I load a lot of 1 1/4 oz and also some 1 oz loads for the games. The fed 1oz and 12s4 wads work well in the papers. I have never heated them so maybe thats your problem. I also shoot a big bore barrel and suspect that is not your problem. I have owned several Big Bore barrels with no wad sealing issues. I might add that claybusters have not worked well for me in papers. In fact I don't like claybusters at all. Try the Feds or Downrange. The rems also work for me Lou from Melba
 

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You didn't mention which powder you were using. As Beretta Young Gun mentioned above if it's a fine grain powder it may be migrating around the wad during loading and before firing. If that condition happens then when you fire the shell there is less powder to consume because part of the charge is up in the wad cushion area.


Usually unburned powder left in the barrel is a sign of a light load of powder and inconsistent combustion.


Michael
 

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I have guns with bores of .740" and .745" and have no "wad sealing" problems with Remington TGT-12S, Downrange Jammer XL or Windjammer wads and have loaded them over the years in Remington Premier and Remington STS/Nitro plastic hulls and Federal Gold Medal paper hulls. One thing I did find during the year and a half that I loaded Federal plastic and paper shells is that Federal wads seem to be made from a stiffer plastic than the other wads I've used; perhaps the over-powder cup doesn't expand enough or quickly enough? That's just a guess.

I'm pretty sure your bore diameter isn't the cause.

Ed
 

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I have had the occasional "blooper" when trying to use the 12C1 Federal wad in .775 and .800 big bore barrels. I have never had a problem other than then. Ron
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Michael, I have loaded Solo 1000 & Clays. I try to keep them about 1150fps but that shouldn't be too light, should it? I think I will STOP heating my shells & see if I have any better luck. Then if that does not help, then do as Lou suggests & quit using Claybuster wads in the paper hull. I think in the meanwhile I will load a couple of boxes using the original Fed 12C1 wad. Thanks to all you guys for your input.
jim bauer
 

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The original 12C1 wad does not have a deep or flexible over powder cup. I did not have good results with them in an oversized barrel. The Versalites worked very well as did several other wads with deep and flexible over powder cups. Some Claybusters and Duster wads did not do well either, especially in colder weather.
 

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Chango2

I think you posted this in the wrong thread.
 

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buckshot57


I reload all my shells to 1150 fps over my Pro-Chrono chronograph - singles and handicap. I have used the CB3118-12AR wad in the cheap Federal hulls because they are made for straight wall cases. My Caesar Guerini bore is .735 and I use Clay-Dot powder.


A rule of thumb I have found is when loading Remington plastic hulls correctly at 1150 fps the Federal plastic shells then require 1.0 grain more of powder to counter-act the blow by of the straight wall case. When chronographing both Remington and Federal's they chrono the same although the Federal's contain 1.0 more grain of powder.


If I try to load the same amount of powder in both hulls the Federals are chrono'd slower and have a few quackers and this is in warm weather.


My .02


Michael


AA-26-AA
 
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