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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Engraved shotgun receiver (game scenes -medium relief), blue. What's the best way to remove the bluing and protect the resulting exposed metal? I'd be concerned about using a chemical since the top and bottom will need to be taped off to create clean division lines. Thinking chem could leak under the tape and possibly create an uneven break line. Thought maybe Flitz and careful buffing with a Dremel on slow speed might get it done? Something else by hand? What protective coating after? Suggestions appreciated.
 

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I'd leave it alone and either learn to like the blue, or trade it for another gun - before you do something you wish you hadn't done......
That said, I will say this; I sent my old worn out "Kriggy" model 32 back to Ottsville to have it rebuilt and refinished to new. It was engraved with gold inlays. I don't know how they did it (I heard them refer to "stripping" the receiver), but they have a system for dealing with what you are wanting to do.
You may have to strip all of it and then have the part you want with bluing reblued.
I sure would NOT blast it with anything. That would either dull the engraving, or worse, dull the ALL of the metal enough to require repolishing and that, in turn, would REALLY dull the engraving.
Best of luck.
Mike Durhan
 

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vinegar...or very careful sanding with superfine wetpaper. Buffing it down to bare metal is best - that way you can highly polish the metal while removing the bluing. Remember that the blueing will be as shiny as your final sanded/polished finish. Any sanding/polishing marks will be seen thru the blue. Beadblast - maybe for a utility gun prior to a cheap, baked-on finish or a home-dip parkerize or a Kolar barrel:^). The whole idea of removing blue is to not damage the sharp edges of any engraving. Better yet - just pay the pros.

Keep in mind that polishing the right way requires 2 or 3 different polishing wheels. Each one is dedicated to a particular polishing compound. Also - 1800 or so RPM is much better for polishing than the typical hi-speed grinding wheel rpm.
 

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You don't use tape to mask off.. you use clear nailpolish.. the line will be as straight as you make it.. Then after stripping the blue with naval jelly..and completely washing.. you remove the clear nail polish with nail polish remover.. Do NOT bead blast.. do NOT sandpaper.. Do NOT use a dremel too..
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I have a Model 31 with "greyed" receiver sides and game scene engraving. I've had it for many years and only oil the whole gun lightly on occassion. The idea here is to make this second gun look the same by removing the bluing. It will not be re-blued.
 

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PBB,

I like that idea of the nail polish.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Researching the web, it seems that white vinegar or naval jelly are the weapons of choice for removing bluing, followed by a baking soda/water and straight water rinses and heat dry. I don't know what keeps the greyed receiver on my M31 so nice, but the only thing I can think of to protect the resulting bare metal from rusting is a periodic application of automotive polish; but I also don't want wax buildup in the engraving... Unless someone has a different idea.
 

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If this gun is an expensive gun or something you really like I believe I would take the advice of Mike Durhan above. Leave it alone or send it to someone who actually knows what he is doing.

This is a situation where since you don't know how to do this , praticing on a high dollar gun is not really too smart..

There are just somethings that are best left to "them that knows". "Bubba" always has a negative effect on the value of nice guns. Don't be Bubba!

Using a motorized buffing "anything" will dull the engraving. Period. This is the only outcome possible as buffing involves metal removal. Most of that metal will come from the high spots of the engraving. You don't want this.

You did the right thing,,, When you don't know something ,ask!, Now do the right thing and take the gun to someone who is used to "correctly" dealing with these issues.

I'm sure many here will recommend people who are competent in these areas.

Ask again.

Randy
 

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Wipe Away cloth removes bluing. It's used to remove lead from forcing cones in revolvers. It's kind of a yellow felt type dloth with a chemical impregnation that takes rust off shotguns very nicely and if you go to far the bluing comes too.

Don't ask me how I know.

HM
 

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I have used the Birchwood-Casey bluing remover. It is sold in a blue bottle. That does work pretty well and fast. It is some wicked stuff on your hands though. Smells like some kind of acid. Recommend wearing gloves, and eye protection for when you use a old toothbrush to get into the engraving. Use the nail polish, like mentioned above for your cutoff line. Jon
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Will the nail polish remover not harm the bluing? I doubt that I would be able to create a perfectly straight line with nail polish anyway. I'm more inclined to mask it off and try the naval jelly or the cloth mentioned above (which sounds like a pretty safe approach). Following that, my next concern would be getting it to shine up then some sort of protective finish. Wish I knew how it was achieved by the engraver of my 31. Nary a sign of rust and it was done many many years ago.
 

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I think nail polish is a laquer. It does not harm the bluing. Make sure you clean the metal with acetone or nail polish remover before you tape, to get ride of the oil. Tape off what you want to stay blued and run the nail polish over the edge. Pull the tap off carefully while still wet and you have a perfect line. Let polish harden. Apply the bluing remover, and rinse it off. Remove the polish and you are there. The metal will usually be shinny under the bluing on the Remmington guns. I do not believe they are rust blued. They might require minor buffing. Jon
 

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The first thing that you should do it's clean the receiver and get all the oil out. With masking tape cover the part that you are going to take the bluing out and with nail polish (any color)paint the section to be protected.
At this time take the masking tape out and make sure that the lines are streight, get a small brush and with TOILET BOWL CLEANER GEL brushed on the receiver; the bluing will come off very very easy.
Wash everithing down with water and polish with a small cotton wheel and metal paste the receiver.
When you done wash everything down with nail polish remover and oil everything very well.
That's it!
 

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My two cents. Fingernail polish remover is mostly acetone.You can also get it in a 100% version right there with the other nailpolish remover at of course Wal-mart. Ed's Red cleaner is like 25% acetone by the way.Keep it away from the finish on the wood!
 

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Haskins bill: nail polish remover is actually lacquer thinner. Which is the next notch down from Acetone. MEK is the next notch up from acetone. They are all Keytones which are the furthest refined petroleum products.

The further they are refined the less actual oil content there is in the product. IN other words lacquer thinner has more oil left in it than
Acetone,,, etc.

Randy
 

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Coke, the one you drink. I have seen a gunsmith pour a can of coke on a barrel and he said it will take the bluing right off. Blood will do the same. I have seen 5 finger markes on a gun barrel and asked the sell how that happened. He said he shot a deer and field dressed it and then grabed his gun. The blood from the deer took the bluing off.
 
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