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I have a basically brand new Browning Cynergy (2000 rds through it) that has some light rust forming right at the break. You can't see it unless it is broke open. I want to get it now before it gets any worse. I have no idea how it happened. I have never shot it in the rain. I am currently waiting on a hard "break down" case so for the moment, the only case I have is a soft case that holds the gun assembled. Any input is greatly appreciated. Thanks.
 

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And keep your gun out of the case unless it is being transported.

When you get a hard case, keep it open when the gun's in it.

It is never a bad idea to leave your open cases outside on a hot, sunny day for a few hours, neither, and don't hang them in your garage until you need to go shoot.

Bob
 

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Fine steelwool either OOO or OOOO. Put alot of oil in the steelwool till it starts to drip off. You can't have enough. Then start working on the rust area. It will remove the rust and not harm the blueing or Stainless steel.
 

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I prefer 3M Scotch-Brite (maroon, by preference) pads & Flitz over oil & steel wool, but either, plenty of patient time and not much pressure will get you done.

And, of course, wipe all metal with an oily rag before you put the gun up.

Bob
 

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Miracle cloth works wonders for all kinds of stains, it will also remove lead from the end of revolver cylinders better than anything. It will take off cold blue quickly and if you try hard enough you might thin good blue but you shouldn't be rubbing that much. Don't confuse this with the silicone rags and the lead wipe away cloths, they are not even close to the Miracle cloth and are more expensive most of the time.

I put the web site above. I've been using these cloths for years, if I have a pistol barrel with a lot of lead I cut a patch out of it and it will get the lead out. I don't own the company or get a kick back just letting folks know about a good product.


I have to add that I've found so many uses for this product I can't list them all but if you want to make stainless look good they will do it, and I've used them to get rust off of chrome wheels on a car.

On top of all that they are made in the USA!!!!
 

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I always spray a light coating of oil in any new case after letting it sit open and dry out in heat or air conditioning. Then let the case dry. I don't have any of my guns rust after treating the case.
Pat Haskins
 

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Saturate your ultra fine steel wool with Break free, and give it time to work. The BF will get under the rust and a light touch woill lift it off.

Wipe - Away treated cloth will work too, go lightly. You will see the brown on the cloth. It will also remove your bluing.

HM
 

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I would go to a Golf shop and ask them for a abrasive rubber bar the size of a bar of soap . They use this for polishing golf club irons and driver faces . Works for me with some WD40 .
 

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Good grief wonder which way he'll pic? I can't even firgure out where it's rusting. maybe on the part of the barrel that rests against the breach face when it;s closed? if so that part aint blued on any shotgun I know of so no big deal just use a copper penny on it. I just though of something better go to the car parts store and get a clay bar.
 

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Guys: I saw a couple of "ideas" here that are complete suicide.

Scotch Brite pads of any type with abrasive will remove blueing just about as fast as sandpaper, even with oil.

Never use regular Steel Wool on Stainless Steel!!! Only use "Stainless Steel wool, or a fine Stainless Steel wire brush. Regular Steel Wool WILL contaminate the surface of the stainless with low carbon steel particals which will rust in hours. Believe me, It WILL rust. I'm not speculating here! IT WILL RUST! You can ask any competent weldor about wire brushing a stainless weld with a steel brush. It will rust in a matter of days.

After stainless parts are worked with steel tools , they must be passivated by soaking them in a Nitric Acid solution. The Acid eats all of the ferrous component from the surface of the material leaving only the nickle and chromium exposed to the outside. Nickle and Chromium do not rust hence stainless steel.


Stainless guns are made from 400 series stainless steel. 400 series stainless is ferrous IE magnetic, and will rust on its own, it is kind of rust resistant. Guns can't really be made from 300 series stainless because it is too ductile, and where as it won't readily rust, if it is contaminated with locarbon steel like from steel wool or a wire brush, it will. Those pretty Bass Boat propellers you've seen are made from 300 series Stainless and are then "electro polished" which is passivation with electricity added. Note how shiney they are? They will hardly rust in salt water, they will, it just takes along time, because there is no ferrous steel exposed on the surface.


If you have light rust on a blued surface, the standard method of removing it is to use 000, or 0000 steel wool and some oil. The steel wool removes the rust and the oil seals the metal so it doesn't just rerust. It does not harm the blueing which is nothing more than blue colored rust. In fact steel wooling or carding with a fine wire brush is part of the process called Rust Blueing.

I hope this helps, and you need to test ANY process on a hidden area before trying it on an expensive gun, for that matter on a cheap gun too.

Randy
 

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Using Scotch-Brite works to remove rust but using the maroon stuff is like using a brick.

McMaster-Carr sells all the grades of nylon abrasive pads and the gray SiC pads in ultrafine or microfine are the ones that can be used for rust removal on gun barrels. They can also be used wetted with Ed's Red to clean the inside of the barrel without scratching it.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#scotchbrite-abrasive-pads/=8m33a8 (Don't try to "back" out of this site; open the page in a new window!)

Flitz polish may be a better bet as it won't attack the blued finish.

MK
 

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<blockquote><I>"I prefer 3M Scotch-Brite (maroon, by preference) pads & Flitz over oil & steel wool, but either, plenty of patient time and not much pressure will get you done."</I></blockquote>The maroon stuff is 3M's #7447 "fine" aluminum oxide pad. It's too coarse for cleaning rust off guns as it will remove metal, wet or dry.

Instead, use 3M's #7448 "ultra fine" light gray silicon carbide polishing pads. It won't scratch or remove metal.

I have some bore cleaning jags designed to use #7448 and the guy who made them specifically cautions that that is the only grade that can be used and not scratch the bore.

MK
 

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I've used a little Flitz and an old sock with great results. Flitz also has something in it to help prevent future rust.

The goal in any operation like this is to use as fine an abrasive as necessary.

For the record; there is no stainless steel on a Cynergy.
 

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I use WD40 with a patch on light surface rust. When you catch it soon enough this is all it takes. Work up into any abrasive - the less the better. After you're done with the WD40 wipe it off and lightly oil. WD40 is not a good coating to leave on the gun.
Jack
 
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