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Discussion Starter #1
I bought this gun 5-6 years ago. When i first bought the gun it shot way high. After shooting it for a few weeks it flattened out. Never knew why. Later on, I noticed there was a post factory solder job around the lug, but figured as old as the gun was no big deal.

This winter the lug came off the gun. After thinking about it, the lug must have been repaired just before I bought it. It was causing the heated barrel to shoot high.

I want to have someone TIG weld it back on so the bluing doesn't get ruined terribly. Who can I sent it to? I'm in Central IL, if there is someone around here.
 

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Sky Buster
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I bought this gun 5-6 years ago. When i first bought the gun it shot way high. After shooting it for a few weeks it flattened out. Never knew why. Later on, I noticed there was a post factory solder job around the lug, but figured as old as the gun was no big deal.

This winter the lug came off the gun. After thinking about it, the lug must have been repaired just before I bought it. It was causing the heated barrel to shoot high.

I want to have someone TIG weld it back on so the bluing doesn't get ruined terribly. Who can I sent it to? I'm in Central IL, if there is someone around here.
Id use Phillips Gun Smithing in Texas.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Took it to a local shop. They called and said it was done. Picked it up tonight after work. Shot a few shots out into the tree leaves to see if the POI changed. 3rd round the forearm fell off.

I called the shop right away before they closed. Going to take it back to let them make it right. If it fails again I'm sending it to Beretta center. Pictured are before I fired the 3 rounds. Did they just melt the existing solder and try to weld it you think?

1748074

1748075
 

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Can't tell what was new and what was from the prior repair. ....Sloppy job never the less.

I believe poor preparation before the repair caused the failure. .....If soft-solder was used, it needs to be removed completely before doing a proper job.

I HIGHLY recommend using Brownell's Hi Force 44 solder. ...It is a low-temp silver solder. ...The temp required will not affect the bluing and is not hot enough to distort the barrel if done correctly.
...Ironically, the flux required costs more than the solder. ..."Tinning" both surfaces prior to joining them increases the bond.
 
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That appears to be a poor attempt on someone's part.
Doesn't look like silver solder, more like a copper phos blend.
 
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