Ok, I've looked into this quite a bit over the past few weeks and want to share what I know and what I *think* I know. Basis is, I bought a used DT10 which ejects the shells from the bottom single and bottom barrel of the combo into the receiver face (early ejection). I bought a new trip lever thinking that the improper operation of both barrels pointed to some part that was common but it had little to no effect. I searched and found a post that claimed to slow ejection by "modify(stone)the profile of the ejector trigger to open a bit later.(hull clearing the breach face) It's really quite easy. I've done in on several guns that I've bought barrels for.". Not very specific about the way to do this and I was convinced that retarding the timing was not possible with this method. I was wrong.
After noodling on this for a good amount of time, I realized that the lever pivoting "down" on the end engaging the ejector hook was controlled by the bottom of the lever bearing against the bottom of the receiver. I took a look at both this region of the receiver (normally hidden by the cocking rods) and the lever itself and shiny surfaces on both gave me a map of where the contact occurs on both parts. I stoned the bottom radius (as shown in the drawings below) of the lever and eventually was able to slow the ejection enough to make the shell clear the receiver. Up to this point, I have direct experience and am absolutely sure I understand the operation. What I think I know is that the 68X series uses a different shaped lever but the principle is the same. Again, shiny spots on the lever will be the tell for where the contact occurs.
Advancing the timing would be done by stoning down the "top" of the lever as shown in the drawings. These parts are relatively inexpensive and come ready to install so not nearly the nosebleed that a new ejector causes. The are really hard, I couldn't touch them with a fine cut file and used a diamond hone; coarse to re-shape and then fine to smooth followed by a hard Arkansas stone to polish.
As always, whittle a little, test a lot. Hope this helps someone else.
-Scot
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After noodling on this for a good amount of time, I realized that the lever pivoting "down" on the end engaging the ejector hook was controlled by the bottom of the lever bearing against the bottom of the receiver. I took a look at both this region of the receiver (normally hidden by the cocking rods) and the lever itself and shiny surfaces on both gave me a map of where the contact occurs on both parts. I stoned the bottom radius (as shown in the drawings below) of the lever and eventually was able to slow the ejection enough to make the shell clear the receiver. Up to this point, I have direct experience and am absolutely sure I understand the operation. What I think I know is that the 68X series uses a different shaped lever but the principle is the same. Again, shiny spots on the lever will be the tell for where the contact occurs.
Advancing the timing would be done by stoning down the "top" of the lever as shown in the drawings. These parts are relatively inexpensive and come ready to install so not nearly the nosebleed that a new ejector causes. The are really hard, I couldn't touch them with a fine cut file and used a diamond hone; coarse to re-shape and then fine to smooth followed by a hard Arkansas stone to polish.
As always, whittle a little, test a lot. Hope this helps someone else.
-Scot
