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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, anyone on here replaced their locking block or pins on your Beretta 682X trap? What I am referring to is the two pins on the receiver that go into the barrels. Its actually shaped like a C or U. Anyone have any experience with this? and have detailed pics? I know I can send it in but I would like to try and do my self. I don't think it would be that hard. Thank you in advance.

Dutch (Troy)
 

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I thought the two holes in the monoblock needed to be drilled out to a slightly larger diameter so that they would be round again? I would expect them to be oval in a gun that needs the locking block replaced. If so it's not a project I would be in a rush to DIY for the bucks it will cost to get a good smith to do it right.

I'm not a beretta guy, so I don't know, but I did stay at a holiday inn express once!
 

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The two holes in the mono-block begin their life as a slight oval. Only the bottom half of the pin's diameter should make contact.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I just want to know how to get the locking block/ pins out. I figured how to get the hinge pins out. I have new ones coming.
 

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Dutchman.
There is a video on Utube on how to take the Beretta apart.You will need gunsmith type screwdrivers for this job.It is a little complicated ,but watch the video a few times before tackling this job.I have had the 682 guns apart and would send the gun out to Phillips the next time it needs repairs.Not a easy job.
 

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You will still have to remove the trigger group to take out the locking block.Brownells has a schematic that might be of some help.
I use my digital camera when I take anything apart.That way I can see where the parts go.
 

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Its a rare occurrence that you will need to replace the hinge pins as long as the bbl and receiver are factory. If you do replace the originals with oversize pins, the barrel will need to be re-fit to the receiver, because it will not fully close. A +.015" pin will push the barrel back .0075"...that's quite a lot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
right. I ordered just the standard hinge pins. I was going to take them out and switch sides of the hinge pins but I stripped one of them but got it out so I'm just going to replace both of them with the standard ones.
 

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Troy,
I have replaced the locking block on my 687. I went from a #1 to a #2 until such time I sent it to Coles to have new barrel inserts installed in both sets. At that time the locking block was returned back to "standard" size. You need to make sure the top of the new block does not touch the top of the inserts, otherwise that will cause the gun to bounce open periodically after a shot.
As mentioned the proper screwdriver bits are required. You'll need to remove the trigger group along with the selector to access the main screw holding the top lever. You need to push the top lever over to access the main screw and use a spacer of some type to hold the block back to access the screw. There is some tension on the block so be careful & patient. When you get to that point you'll see what I'm referring to regarding a spacer to hold the lever over. It took me about an hour to replace it, not having done it before. Again, per Coles, it is important that the top of the block does not contact the inserts? Carbon paper or a grease pencil can tell if there is contact. I would polish the top of the new block prior to installation as a precaution.

Good luck.
 
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