I have shortened the springs in both of my 682 's 1/4 of an inch, they still eject , but gently

 

Getting soft springs is by far the best way to go. Call Cole's and ask them.

 

Thanks. Part of my routine is putting my hand over the ejectors before the shell hull can get tossed, which I'd like to eliminate.

 

In some guns, ball point pen springs work great.

jk

 

If you have been shooting steel hulls and ejecting them ok, reducing the spring force may cause problems. Better to find and remove what causes the ejectors to trip and keep the springs factory.

 

Copied this statement from another site,

haven't got a response back from Bob's yet though I got one from Cole's today. By the way Rich Cole briefly explained the procedure it sounds as if anyone could do it......Though I don't have the nerve quite yet.

He stated this is a very simple alteration to the forend iron levers. One simply grinds a radius on the top of the levers so that they do not retain the ejector timing hooks, therefore the ejectors lift the cartridges under spring tenison, and cam closed on the dolls head cams as usual. If the shooter chooses to have ejector function again, all that is required is the replacement of these parts, a parts cost of somewhere about $25-30.

Edited January 17, 2008 by Heavy Barrel

 

He stated this is a very simple alteration to the forend iron levers. One simply grinds a radius on the top of the levers so that they do not retain the ejector timing hooks, therefore the ejectors lift the cartridges under spring tenison, and cam closed on the dolls head cams as usual. If the shooter chooses to have ejector function again, all that is required is the replacement of these parts, a parts cost of somewhere about $25-30.

Thanks for the info. I'll look into what that modification entails.

 

I had Cole's modify my 686 forend iron to go to extractors. $40 plus shipping (forend only) both ways. Worked great. Tried cutting springs before that; was not happy with it...still ejected, only less forcefully.

 

There was a prior thread about this with some pretty clear pictures. I’m guessing it was in the gunsmithing section. I converted all my Berettas, several 686’s, a 692 & DT11 by using a Dremel tool on the forearm levers. Really simple.

 

I converted all my Berettas, several 686’s, a 692 & DT11 by using a Dremel tool on the forearm levers. Really simple.

Any pictures perchance?

 

Go to Gunsmithing & search “extractors” & you’ll see the thread about converting dt11 ejectors. Great pictures there. The parts are all similar. When you take the wood off the forearm it’s pretty easy to see what needs to be altered.

 

Go with short springs. Ejectors have to be fitted. Springs can be replaced in no time. Cut them flush with the hole they sit in. Works very well.

 

Works very well.

Just to check, you actually did this and have no timing or non-extractions issues?

 

Yes, I had a 682 gold e. I hate ejectors. Beretta is easy. I am shooting a 725 now. Cut your springs flush with the chamber with your spring still in the hole. Your shells will pop about half way out. Grinding your hooks would work but you can’t go back with out new ejectors. And the timing set again. Springs are cheap.

 

Springs are cheap.

Yes, I just ordered a spare set to try this mod on. That way, as stated, I can "go back again" if for some reason I decide to.

 

As everyone points out, Cole's is the place for this and all other Beretta things. My wife shoots and loves a very nice, old 680. It does have the rounded fore arm condition based on years of use. It extracts, not ejects. She likes that. I send the gun with my 682X to Cole's for normal service. The first time Rich called me and wanted to know if I wanted to leave the 680 as extract only. He was fine with that choice, clearly understanding how it contributes to conjugal felicity. Since then I just note it in the cover letter and they leave it alone.

Ejection does not bother me, but it does bother She Who Must Be Obeyed so hers extracts only. And there is peace in the valley.

Mike