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WE decided to shoot bowling pins with our shotguns today. We ended up getting lots of bounce back shot. Everyone got hit a few times. We were using 3 dram 7.5. Should we go to heavier shot or lighter shot to avoid the bounce backs. Thanks
 

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You are supposed to be shooting those with .200 grain JHP .45 ammo. Nine mm will do but you have to have more pins on the table. You will get bounce back from shotgun shells. Personally, this is the first time that I have ever heard of anyone shooting pins with a shotgun. John
 

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Folks, at the Second Chance Shoot, the mother of all bowling pins shoots, the minimum shot size for pins was nothing smaller than #4 buck. Triple 0(000) did the best jobs since it takes only 1 .36 pellet to knock over the pin and double 0(00) next best but takes 2 pellets. Shot smaller than #4 had lots of richocet problems.
Joe
 

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Bowling pin shooting is a lot of fun. I used to really be into it, and still shoot it from time to time.<br>
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I've done plenty of bowling pin shooting with a shotgun...<br>
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The main problem is.... you're supposed to be shooting slugs, which not only increases the difficulty, but eliminates bounce back.<br>
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You can use shot, but as you noted, small shot can bounce back because the exterior of the bowling pin is so tough. Buckshot can significantly reduce bounce back, but it does not totally eliminate bounce back. Eye protection is a must.<br>
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As for handguns, run whatcha brung.<br>
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I've used .45 ACP. It works best with a bullet design that will "dig in". FMJ tends to glance off for edge hits, and can leave a pin standing or laying on the table. At one time there was a "sawtoothed" .45 ACP bullet that would dig in even on an edge hit, but I don't know if they're made anymore. I used my SIG/Sauer P-220 for this cartridge.<br>
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I've also used my Colt stainless Delta Gold Cup 10mm with full power loads. It worked even better than the .45 ACP.<br>
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But being the type who likes to be different, I mainly used my various big N frame S&W revolvers for bowling pins (and tactical, for that matter). These included an 8-3/8" Model 27 .357, a 6-1/2" .45 ACP Model of 1955 Target, a 6" Model 25-5 .45 Colt, and a 6-1/2" Model 29 .44 Mag (though I used .44 Special for bowling pins). I no longer have the .45 Colt, but I still have and shoot the others.<br>
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One of the best bowling pin revolvers ever made was the 5" stainless Model 625 in .45 ACP. In fact, this gun was brought out by S&W primarily for bowling pin shooting. I had the shorter 3" barreled version and carried that for CCW for a long time. One of my dumber mistakes was trading it off.<br>
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As for shotguns, I used a Mossberg 590 pump. The 8+1 capacity was a help, but recoil was miserable. Looking back, I wish I had used an 1100 or 1187. Recoil with slugs is pretty stout with an aluminum receiver pump.<br>
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BTW, I showed up at a match one day and used a shoulder stocked Artillary Luger. Cleaned up with it. The rules did not specifically say you could not use a shoulder stocked handgun, but that was changed at the local club after that event. (That was another gun I regret trading off.)
 

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Bullets that are reloaded to light will bounch back at the shooter and the scorer. I have heard that a scorer was catching them at one shoot.
 

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We flame cut steel pins out of 1/4" plate steel. Then set them on rebar posts with a piece of flat steel welded to the top. Put them at 7-10 yds and about 36" off ground. Put them 2 ft or so apart and make sure everybody uses a mod choke.( no 2fers) Shot will carry them off the pedestols. Any reflected shot will be at a safe downward angle. Regular pins are 3 deminsional and reflected shot is unpredictable. A bonus is the steel lasts forever. Coffee can and a stopwatch(buck a round) make this a sport.
 

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shot em with 3 inch mag 1 7/8 oz copper bb no bounce back but a lot of (damage) to the pin. usually the shotgunners got em after the handgun guys and it wasn't unusual to catch a hollow spot and cut one in half.
 
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