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Recently I was installing a new front bead on the rib of a 682e and twisted the bead off as I was tightening and aligning it. What is the best way to remove the shank that is in the rib in order to put in a new bead?

Thanks for your help and thank for keeping comments about the stupidity of the bead installer to a minimum.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Recently I was installing a new front bead on the rib of a 682e and twisted the bead off as I was tightening and aligning it. What is the best way to remove the shank that is in the rib in order to put in a new bead?

Thanks for your help and thank for keeping comments about the stupidity of the bead installer to a minimum.
 

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Well, aside from drilling it out, you may want to try and heat the area around the shank with a soldering iron and then use a spring loaded center punch on the stud to unscrew it. This actually works very well. You simply get on the edge of the shank and use the punch to turn the shank counter clockwise.
 

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I have used that method a lot. A bead shank is pretty tiny, but I would still try it (gingerly).

Alternatively I might Dremel a slot in it and use a screwdriver.

HM
 

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You can get a reamer from Brownells that will remove material from the bottom side of the bead. You just trim a little off until the bead lines up.

Jim Skeel
 

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Find someone that has a rib centering tool, for installing beads, use it to drill out the old bead shank, and then, as suggested, enlarge it to accept a larger bead. Brownell's sells them

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If there is part of the shank above the surface of the rib the edge of a flat file can be used to cut a groove in the top of the shank and then you can unscrew it with a screw driver. If it is flush or twisted off below the rib surface the heat and spring loaded punch will work but it takes some patience.
 

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I just removed one for a friend. I set it up in my milling machine and drilled right down the center, with a tiny number drill and then just removed the shank with a small easy out.

Ed Yanchok
 

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Hoosier, if you put on a new bead,do not keep turning it to tighten as you know what will happen. Turn it until its snug then back off and turn it a little more, back off and then turn it little more. Do this until it is aligned. Couple gunsmiths showed me this and works great.
 

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Before I did any drilling I would try to work out the threaded piece. Try using a very sharp pointed tool and look to snag the outer edge of the shank and spin it out. It won't be tight just hard to get ahold of. The same thing Tron is suggesting. Beads will very rarely line up tight. You probably know by now not to force it into lining up . I just use blue locktite.
 

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They do make left handed drills for this. You need to run them in a mill with a reverse.

Jim Skeel
 
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