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This just started happening, and it's a major distraction plus limits the ability to shoot doubles. But sometimes, and I haven't figured out rhyme nor reason why, my 682 opens slightly upon recoil. I use the top barrel, and haven't tried this to see if it also affects bottom-barrel-only on singles. It doesn't open all the way, just a slight gap, maybe 1/16". You still have to use the locking lever to unlock the action and eject/extract the shell.

I searched on this topic, and there was no definitive "do-this = solved". And, there is no gunsmith in this town, or anywhere close except for USPS distance.

It's a 1991 -built, model S682XS0. Any help would be appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
New top lever spring first. If that doesn't fix it it's probably time for a new locking block. If the top lever is at or past 6 o'clock when the gun is closed it's probably time for a new locking block anyways.
Thanks. User replaceable, and parts available?
 

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You don't need a whole kit, just this spring for 4 bucks:


You will have to remove the trigger group from the action and then the top lever to get to it, so if you're not mechanically inclined and comfortable with about a 60% disassembly of the receiver it won't be DIY.
 

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This just started happening, and it's a major distraction plus limits the ability to shoot doubles. But sometimes, and I haven't figured out rhyme nor reason why, my 682 opens slightly upon recoil. I use the top barrel, and haven't tried this to see if it also affects bottom-barrel-only on singles. It doesn't open all the way, just a slight gap, maybe 1/16". You still have to use the locking lever to unlock the action and eject/extract the shell.

I searched on this topic, and there was no definitive "do-this = solved". And, there is no gunsmith in this town, or anywhere close except for USPS distance.

It's a 1991 -built, model S682XS0. Any help would be appreciated.
When the 682 action opens upon recoil and gap between receiver face and barrels not safe to continue shooting. Beretta 682's have 4 locking lug bolts to tune up the action/barrels. The original is numbered "0" with 3 more locking lugs as the size of the lug holes in the barrels wear in to retighten the action. Your 682 needs a tune up now, most Beretta 682 TS shooters recommend Phillips in Texas or Coles in Maine or Florida. Since you need a new locking bolt good idea to have the "smith" check cocking rods, firing pins and springs etc. Coles just serviced my oldest 682, the first tune up after 28 years and did a fine job, they are very professional.
 

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Another FYI, an issue to avoid, since you have a gap between barrel and receiver face could cause extra wear/stress on "hinge pins" normally they do not have to be replaced and if so they are switched right to left and left to right as they only wear on one side of the inside pins.

If you decide to remove the trigger plate after moving the set lock screw the larger screw threads are epoxy/loc tited so use a hair dryer heat and loosen the screw.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Another FYI, an issue to avoid, since you have a gap between barrel and receiver ....
I have no gap between the barrel and receiver until the barrels try to open. That's what my original post stated, that it opens about 1/16" upon recoil. There is no gap when the action is closed and locked. But I will order the parts above, I have the skills to do the job myself for that portion.

Are you by chance filling the locking holes with grease?
No, I don't grease the action prior to use in those areas, mainly just under the lugs and ejectors.
 

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New top lever spring first. If that doesn't fix it it's probably time for a new locking block. If the top lever is at or past 6 o'clock when the gun is closed it's probably time for a new locking block anyways.
Right on the money. I think Beretta makes oversize bolts in 3 sizes. While a new spring might "fix" it, a new bolt is very likely needed and the position test will tell for sure. If the top lever when closed with barrels attached is in the same position as when released with no barrels, it's time for a new bolt.
 

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The 682 I had the holes that the locking pins (they are more pins than a block anyway) engage in had worn steps that had to be cleaned up to work with the new locking bolt. Without having the correct jigs to remove the step one is taking a big risk in ruining the barrel.
The 682 I had never opened when fired but the barrels moved in the frame when closed and locked.

Even in the gold standard P guns I have held actions that without the barrels on the action the top lever will never get to center or 6 oclock. Its just how the actions and top lever are machined. So while saying the top lever getting to center can be a good indicator. You have to KNOW YOUR firearm and be aware of what that firearm is really showing you!

Having a loose break open action because, "I am waiting for the top lever to wear to center!" And yes I have seen this! When one look shows that the top lever will never reach center, proven with NO BARREL on the action. Well it just goes to show a little knowledge but not really knowing is dangerous!

Al
 
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The 682 I had the holes that the locking pins (they are more pins than a block anyway) engage in had worn steps that had to be cleaned up to work with the new locking bolt. Without having the correct jigs to remove the step one is taking a big risk in ruining the barrel.
The 682 I had never opened when fired but the barrels moved in the frame when closed and locked.

Even in the gold standard P guns I have held actions that without the barrels on the action the top lever will never get to center or 6 oclock. Its just how the actions and top lever are machined. So while saying the top lever getting to center can be a good indicator. You have to KNOW YOUR firearm and be aware of what that firearm is really showing you!

Having a loose break open action because, "I am waiting for the top lever to wear to center!" And yes I have seen this! When one look shows that the top lever will never reach center, proven with NO BARREL on the action. Well it just goes to show a little knowledge but not really knowing is dangerous!

Al
You're right AL, absolute position of the top lever isn't the issue, it's the difference between barrels on and barrels off that matters. If there's no difference, replace the bolt.
 

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I always greased the lock up holes and the pins, one shoot in the rain, after getting a pretty good soak on the receiver, the gun popped open (Beretta 687), and it continued until the end of the round. I walked to the truck, grabbed some q- tips, cleaned all the grease off the pins and the holes, and it hasn't opened since......that was 2 yrs ago
 

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If the lever is still to the right of center, the lugs are probably fine. Just replace the lever spring and it should be fine. Have shot Beretta trap guns for 40 years 1000's of round with no problems.
Your problem is not a failure, just normal wear. Similar situation with my DT-10. New lever spring took care of it.
 
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