410 loaders
Since 410 shells seem to be a little fickle, which brand of reloader seems to operate the smoothest for making quality reloads. which brand has the least powder mess with MP300? Let the discussion begin.
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Never had shells tip on grabber or 9000
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I have zero problems reloading the Win. AA HS 410 hulls in my 9000g. I use Win. 296 or Hodgdon H-110 powders. They are both the same powder. Just be sure to use a brand new brass washer and a brand new rubber washer. You will have almost no powder loss this way. Do keep a few new washers of both types on hand.
The only hang-up on the 410 progressive, is you have to lower the handle slowly and make sure the guide goes over both hulls properly on the primer/powder station #2 and #3. If the guide hangs up, it will mess you up badly. Just don't raise the handle much, and with your free hand guide the hull with no primer (station #2) into the guide. Once the whole guide drops your good to go. The wad guide in station 3 is connected to the same guide that aligns the hull on station 2. Older hulls will require more alignments on station #2!!!
The only other problem could be poorly seated primers. A protruding primer below the hull will catch the metal plate as it rotates (from #2 to #3 stations), and you'll spill lots of shot when this happens!!! If you think your going to install a Win. primer into a STS hull and not get hang-ups??? Your in for a treat. You'll get hang-ups all over the place. Especially the first time you install the primer. Those are the two big downfalls. If you load only AA hulls and use AA primers, you'll be fine. break em all jeff
The only hang-up on the 410 progressive, is you have to lower the handle slowly and make sure the guide goes over both hulls properly on the primer/powder station #2 and #3. If the guide hangs up, it will mess you up badly. Just don't raise the handle much, and with your free hand guide the hull with no primer (station #2) into the guide. Once the whole guide drops your good to go. The wad guide in station 3 is connected to the same guide that aligns the hull on station 2. Older hulls will require more alignments on station #2!!!
The only other problem could be poorly seated primers. A protruding primer below the hull will catch the metal plate as it rotates (from #2 to #3 stations), and you'll spill lots of shot when this happens!!! If you think your going to install a Win. primer into a STS hull and not get hang-ups??? Your in for a treat. You'll get hang-ups all over the place. Especially the first time you install the primer. Those are the two big downfalls. If you load only AA hulls and use AA primers, you'll be fine. break em all jeff
My 9000 tips the 410 as the advancing pawl comes forward but they always tip back just in time for the pre crimp die to complete. Spooky but not a failure. I load 250 at a clip and don’t see any shot spillage.
Not for the faint of heart but the volume is awesome.
Your choice of machine will depend on how many 410 you want to shoot. Beware 410 smoke is addictive.
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Not for the faint of heart but the volume is awesome.
Your choice of machine will depend on how many 410 you want to shoot. Beware 410 smoke is addictive.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Agree with Jeff. 2x
Rem primers in Rem hulls.
Or run your batch with win209 without powder or shot and inspect for primers sticking out of the hull a fraction. Sometimes you can run the primers that stick out a second time thru the primer seat station to seat the primer fully.
Nobody ever said 410 reloading would be easy. But it’s worth it. My reloads are better than most factory reloads. I’m sure you have heard that before ha haha.
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Rem primers in Rem hulls.
Or run your batch with win209 without powder or shot and inspect for primers sticking out of the hull a fraction. Sometimes you can run the primers that stick out a second time thru the primer seat station to seat the primer fully.
Nobody ever said 410 reloading would be easy. But it’s worth it. My reloads are better than most factory reloads. I’m sure you have heard that before ha haha.
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Chedite primers work well in the AA 410 hulls but not in the remington.
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I use a Mec 8567 Grabber and make factory looking reloads with no spillage. I load mostly H110 and Lil Gun and as mentioned above use a good brass washer and gasket.
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I use a sizemaster to install the primers the first time. On This machine you can bottom out the primer. It has a bottom. The grabber and 9000 just float the hull in the priming station. It has no bottom to it. So it much more difficult to get that last bit of primer flush with the bottom of the hull. Lucky for me I started out reloading the 410's on the sizemaster. I picked up the 9000 because my demand for reloads grew over time. I have to do the same thing on the 28 ga. STS's as well. If I want to use a Win. primer. Its a PITA to get the primers in them. Good Luck on reloading the 410 bore. As mentioned its worth it in the end. break em all jeff
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spolar..
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My PW 800 Silver does a good job on once and second fired AAHS hulls and keep powder dribble to a minimum with a double sealed powder bushing. After that I use a single stage PW 375. It allows me to control the worn and damaged shell opening and crimps. Makes hulls like a little longer. Also found that Alliant 410 powder doesn't bleed out as bad H110 or 296.
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I'm not a high volume .410 shooter and I have plenty of time so I use my PW 375. I use new primed cheddite hulls and the crimps are consistently more uniform than any factory loaded .410 shell I've ever seen, almost too cute to shoot. I also load 20, and 28 gauge on same machine.
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Part of the answer is dependent on whether you consider reloading part of the hobby and enjoy it or a means to an end that you dread doing. When I was loading shells during the years I was shooting competitively I was all about cranking out loads as fast as possible. I loaded everything on MEC 9000 reloaders.
Over time my volume of shooting decreased quite a bit. I bought a MEC 600 jr. I found that the Jr. was smooth and smooth was fast compared to the 9000. The 9000 was “faster” as every pull of the handle produces a reloaded shell. However, if there is a mess up - primer doesn’t drop, or wad goes into the hull cross ways, or you forget to fill the shot or powder bottle and one or both run dry, well, you get the idea. With a 9000 you’ve got a little work to get it up and going once again.
Even though I still have a MEC 9000 I find myself using the MEC 600 most often. Unless I felt I needed to load a lot of .410 shells I stick with the single stage MEC. If you want to crank out a LOT of shells go with a MEC 9000, or better still a PW if the reloader cost is not a big concern.
There is an aftermarket shell plate for MEC .410 reloaders that is thicker and provides more stability to reduce shell wobble during the process. They are available on eBay for about $45.
Over time my volume of shooting decreased quite a bit. I bought a MEC 600 jr. I found that the Jr. was smooth and smooth was fast compared to the 9000. The 9000 was “faster” as every pull of the handle produces a reloaded shell. However, if there is a mess up - primer doesn’t drop, or wad goes into the hull cross ways, or you forget to fill the shot or powder bottle and one or both run dry, well, you get the idea. With a 9000 you’ve got a little work to get it up and going once again.
Even though I still have a MEC 9000 I find myself using the MEC 600 most often. Unless I felt I needed to load a lot of .410 shells I stick with the single stage MEC. If you want to crank out a LOT of shells go with a MEC 9000, or better still a PW if the reloader cost is not a big concern.
There is an aftermarket shell plate for MEC .410 reloaders that is thicker and provides more stability to reduce shell wobble during the process. They are available on eBay for about $45.
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I have several 410 presses, a couple of Sizemasters, and two 9000's. I load Eurotrash hulls on the Sizemaster, and AA hulls/primers on one 9000, R-P hulls/primers on the other one.
As you have probably figured, there will be a level of frustration with the progressives. Running them slowly is a good start. Everything must be on the money, press adjustments, and component stack height, or be prepared for woe and clean up.
300MP is my favorite powder for the 410. It is not quite as fine as 296/H110. Fresh grommets and brass spacers are a good thing.
These days, one does not always get the desired components. Now, you get what they have that you can use.
My recommendation is, if you load a couple of hundred rounds a month, get a Sizemaster. If you intend to shoot a couple of hundred rounds a week, get the 9000 and be prepared for a learning curve. I have loaded on the 9000 since they came out, and still have the occasional hiccup. So will you.
Creative Reloading Solution's UPP depriming tool is a wise addition to any MEC press.
As you have probably figured, there will be a level of frustration with the progressives. Running them slowly is a good start. Everything must be on the money, press adjustments, and component stack height, or be prepared for woe and clean up.
300MP is my favorite powder for the 410. It is not quite as fine as 296/H110. Fresh grommets and brass spacers are a good thing.
These days, one does not always get the desired components. Now, you get what they have that you can use.
My recommendation is, if you load a couple of hundred rounds a month, get a Sizemaster. If you intend to shoot a couple of hundred rounds a week, get the 9000 and be prepared for a learning curve. I have loaded on the 9000 since they came out, and still have the occasional hiccup. So will you.
Creative Reloading Solution's UPP depriming tool is a wise addition to any MEC press.
I am currently loading .410 on a MEC Grabber but have previous experience with a Sizemaster, 9000G and PW 2000. I like the Grabber best because you get the progressive advantage but manually indexing the shells gives you more refined control. Sizemasters are fine for lower volume reloading but the .410 is not compatible with the primer feed system so it is a pain to load primers by hand. The 9000 does not always index smoothly, especially if you do not keep it clean. The PW was very frustrating, slight variations in hull quality, component stack and machine adjustment can lead to a slightly bulged or bugled crimp in which case, the shell would jamb up in the knockout die. It is not easy to make a in process repair to a shell at various stations. In summary, I would highly recommend a Grabber and even then, reloading the .410 is a labor of love. Good luck!
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