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Yes, it does bridge. I haven't loaded it for years, and I think it's because of that. Also, it doesn't make that much sense to load hunting loads any longer. It simply isn't cost effective.
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611 Posts
Yes it will. But probably not every shell. Tap drop tube every time with ram half way up.
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Not doing it to save money. I just have some old Herco to use up and a friend gave me some 4 shot and another friend had given me some WW12F114 wads long ago. And like many of us oldtimers I have time on my hands. I will have to watch the drops and maybe tap on the tube. We'll see how it goes. Thanks for the info.
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1,174 Posts
If you're paying that, I'd be reloading my hunting loads also. Our local Scheels has had them on sale for 8.99 a box for at least the last 4 falls. They're a Fiocchi load made specifically for Scheels; "Pheasant Max", 4's, 5's, or 6's.
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4,111 Posts
#4 shot in a 410 is a mini buck shot load.........I think 😎
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What I wrote is the sale price, MG, and they typically put them on sale twice every fall. They also offer another load: Pheasant Max Plus, a 1 3/8 oz load, as opposed to the "Pheasant Max, 1 1/4 oz. I have been pleasantly surprised that the price has remained stable for as long as it long, but that's probably not going to last.
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These loads are the most cost effective load that you can possibly load. Should cost 5 to 6 bucks to reload a box which similar hunting loads are about $20 if they would even be available in any store.
Shot not dropping isn't a big deal especially since its a single stage press. Just tap the drop tube or if thats to big of a hassle take out some of the inverted flare on the bottom end of the drop tube. Either hammer it out with driving a punch down it or just cut it off which has been previously discussed on other threads.
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4,111 Posts
Why the discussion of cost? Especially since the components are free. Load them up. It is a single stage press. Scoop the shot in the case. Then finish them off..................... Cost Free !
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3,704 Posts
My 28ga Grabber would bridge every so often with some old oxidized bags of shot i had. Once I figured out what the heck was going on (first experience with bridging) i learned to tap the tube to 'finish' the drop. I spilled a lot of shot ! After getting sick of doing that I used up the rest of that stuff in my 12ga loader. It gobbled the crap right up.
I also learned to watch to make sure I could see the shot fill the hulls before I advanced the shells to the next station. That sucks on a Grabber because the shot drop station is around the machine on my 'blind-side'.
All part of the learning process...
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I am on the prowl and will keep an I out for these. Federal seems to have a year end rebate of $5 a box if you buy 10. That puts them around $15 per box.
I had two kids join me on my annual trip to SD this year. I scrambled a bit to pull together enough rounds.
Fast 4,5,6 shot all works fine.
Like the OP, I have a partial bag of 4 shot under the reloading bench. I am watching this thread for ideas to use that up.
Swanee
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715 Posts
I loaded a good many 1 1/2 oz. loads of 4's and 5's for ducks and it bridged sometimes. After applying wad pressure (if any) bring the handle up a little and tap it with a piece of wood, like a hammer handle. That always worked for me.
Good luck and all the best.
Good luck and all the best.
Buy a steel drop shot tube for the 600jr problem solved.
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795 Posts
When I'm doing small runs of specialty stuff like that I use a loading block. I use the press until the wad is in then put the shell in the block. When the block is full scoop the shot into the shells using the scale and an adjustable scoop to verify weight. Then back to the press for crimping.
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8,285 Posts
Loading good quality hunting loads, not the cheap promotional crap that's always around at the start of hunting season is one of the areas where cost savings is significant when reloading.
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It will occasionally bridge.
As others have stated, simply tap the drop tube lightly after pushing bar over or buy a steel shot tube (works great).
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253 Posts
Take your time and you'll be fine.
1) once the wad is seated, raise the handle up until the bottom of the drop tube is just inside the mouth of the hull,
2) move the charge bar very slow to drop the shot,
3) tap the drop tube if all the shot doesn't drop into the hull.
Two more things that have been mentioned include: get a steel shot drop tube or file the inside of the bottom end of yours to open the exit.
Good luck!
1) once the wad is seated, raise the handle up until the bottom of the drop tube is just inside the mouth of the hull,
2) move the charge bar very slow to drop the shot,
3) tap the drop tube if all the shot doesn't drop into the hull.
Two more things that have been mentioned include: get a steel shot drop tube or file the inside of the bottom end of yours to open the exit.
Good luck!
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