Does anyone know where I can find some ??? All the sights I have looked at are Backordered for months. I don't want Hornaday brass either !
Toolmaker,Hornady brass is junk.
If you do any long range comp shooting there’s only 2 choices for brass Peterson & Lapua that will hold up to the pressures used in reloads. About 5 years ago when I was playing with a 260 Rem AI I tried Winchester brass to see how it would hold up. Lasted about 4 reloads before the pockets opened up. On the other hand Lapua brass held up for over 20 reloads, and the barrel was setback and rechambered for 6.5x47L Using Lapua brass I had 50 cases with over 40 reloads. I also have a Palma rifle and again the Win brass would not hold up long pushing 155 gr SMK bullets at 3,000+ FPS the Federal brass held up a little better, but no where near the life of a Lapua or Peterson 308 small primer pocket brass. There is another brass maker catering to the comp market named Alpha. Been playing with their 6mm Dasher brass, and it’s not as good as fire formed Lapua or Peterson 6mm BR brass. I built instruments that are hydraulic operated for inspecting bullet seating force to within a few pounds and the Peterson brass is the most consistent, then comes Lapua. The necks are annealed at every reload so the readings should be equal. The force is 1/20th of actual gauge reading and a buzzer goes off once that seating stem touches the surface of body die. Bottom line Peterson brass is the best brass you can buy when you can find it in stock. As far as Win brass, Federal will hold up a little better.Toolmaker,
Gotta ask why you say that??
I'm no fan of Remington rifle brass - it is so soft it tears too easily (I suspect that might make it better for loading in the long run, but it is a pain to work with).
I have typically used Federal or Winchester, I have some Weatherby brass I really like, as well as some PMC in 300 Weatherby that has been stellar. I've a ton of LC brass as well (7.62/30'06/5.56)
If I may be so bold - which brass do you 1) Like and 2) Hate - and why??
Thanks in advance,
Thanks for the info.If you want to shoot long range, look into Mifflin sportsman in Lewistown. Pa. We have 4 1,000+ yard ranges in Pa. and Mifflin is the closest for you. The ranges go out in 100 yard increments. P.S. if you want to shoot long with that 308 you need to load #2156 Sierra match king 155 bullets. They out perform the 175 in 308.
For several months they have been selling brass, made near Pittsburgh, Pa.I have never heard of Peterson brass. How long have they been the go-to company?
you don’t heat the necks then tip them in water, you let them air cool like in the photo, this photo was made to demo how they get annealed, once they come in contact with the torch the shell is now sitting on a little turn table for even heat. These are junk Rem 6.5 Creed brass just for the demo. My brass gets annealed every reload. Another thing is you never anneal a case with carbon blowby on the neck as after annealing it will be impossible to remove. There cleaned 1st with 0000 steel wool. You can see in the other photo 2 annealed cases in left and the right is not.Thanks for the info.
The Sako (TRG-22) really likes the Sierra 175 Match King ammo - so far it hasn't been really fond of lighter bullets. It will shoot them for sure, but it really likes the 175 ~ 180 grn bullets.
I have a buddy with a house near Clearfield - we have 650 yrds out the backdoor, and out to 1,200 if we walk a bit (see below).
I'd love to pick your brain on the annealing process - my experience was set the shells in a cookie tray of water - heat with propane torch - knock them over... I see all these purpose built machines and was thinking of building one.
Yeah. I've learned that much about annealing at least...you don’t heat the necks then tip them in water, you let them air cool like in the photo, this photo was made to demo how they get annealed, once they come in contact with the torch the shell is now sitting on a little turn table for even heat.