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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does anyone know where I can find some ??? All the sights I have looked at are Backordered for months. I don't want Hornaday brass either !
 

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Joe, what don't you like about Hornady brass? I use it in two rifles - 7mm-08 REM and 6.5 Creedmoor - because I couldn't find anything else at the time but I don't regret buying it as I get one-ragged-hole groups with it. While conditioning it as new brass, I found it very consistent in weight, length and primer pocket and flash hole uniformity.

Ed
 

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Gunwerks has it in stock at $227.50 per 100. Hornady brass is junk, Best brass obtainable currently is Peterson followed by Lapua.
 

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Hornady brass is junk.
Toolmaker,

Gotta ask why you say that??

I'm no fan of Remington rifle brass - it is so soft it tears too easily (I suspect that might make it better for loading in the long run, but it is a pain to work with).

I have typically used Federal or Winchester, I have some Weatherby brass I really like, as well as some PMC in 300 Weatherby that has been stellar. I've a ton of LC brass as well (7.62/30'06/5.56)

If I may be so bold - which brass do you 1) Like and 2) Hate - and why??

Thanks in advance,

David D
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well I used to not be so picky but I must have got a bad batch of Hornady . It split after the first firing . Others had the same problem. Lapua is and has always been the best quality in my book. With the price being so high I may have to just buy what I can get ahold of.
 

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I have had equally bad luck with Winchester brass as you with Hornady. Years ago, I bought 100 pieces in 7mmSTW that were .030"+ shorter than the trim-to length for that cartridge and the necks were cut off at an angle. I left voice mails that went unanswered so I finally mailed a letter. A month or so later, I received a letter advising me to return the brass for an exchange and the replacement stuff was just as bad! When I notified them of that, they told me to return it for a refund and that they no longer offer brass or loaded ammunition in that caliber. I certainly can see why!

A year or two after that, I bought 100 pieces of .243 WIN brass that were .035"+ longer than the trim-to length. Fortunately I have an RCBS power case trimmer but it still took a long time to cut that much off that many pieces. That was my last Winchester brass purchase.

As I stated above though, Hornady rifle brass has been very good for me. Nosler and Norma brass has been the best for me as far as how much conditioning it needs but I don't hesitate to use Remington brass when I can get it.

Ed
 

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7540AEB9-2707-4ECB-93CA-75A671BEB952.jpeg
Toolmaker,

Gotta ask why you say that??

I'm no fan of Remington rifle brass - it is so soft it tears too easily (I suspect that might make it better for loading in the long run, but it is a pain to work with).

I have typically used Federal or Winchester, I have some Weatherby brass I really like, as well as some PMC in 300 Weatherby that has been stellar. I've a ton of LC brass as well (7.62/30'06/5.56)

If I may be so bold - which brass do you 1) Like and 2) Hate - and why??

Thanks in advance,

David D
If you do any long range comp shooting there’s only 2 choices for brass Peterson & Lapua that will hold up to the pressures used in reloads. About 5 years ago when I was playing with a 260 Rem AI I tried Winchester brass to see how it would hold up. Lasted about 4 reloads before the pockets opened up. On the other hand Lapua brass held up for over 20 reloads, and the barrel was setback and rechambered for 6.5x47L Using Lapua brass I had 50 cases with over 40 reloads. I also have a Palma rifle and again the Win brass would not hold up long pushing 155 gr SMK bullets at 3,000+ FPS the Federal brass held up a little better, but no where near the life of a Lapua or Peterson 308 small primer pocket brass. There is another brass maker catering to the comp market named Alpha. Been playing with their 6mm Dasher brass, and it’s not as good as fire formed Lapua or Peterson 6mm BR brass. I built instruments that are hydraulic operated for inspecting bullet seating force to within a few pounds and the Peterson brass is the most consistent, then comes Lapua. The necks are annealed at every reload so the readings should be equal. The force is 1/20th of actual gauge reading and a buzzer goes off once that seating stem touches the surface of body die. Bottom line Peterson brass is the best brass you can buy when you can find it in stock. As far as Win brass, Federal will hold up a little better.
 

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Toolmaker,

Thanks for the education... the long rang stuff is my next direction (I've a 308 Sako and 6.5 Crd Tikka that I have started pushing on distance). Not quite to your level, but working slowly.

Again, thanks for the info.

David D
 

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If you want to shoot long range, look into Mifflin sportsman in Lewistown. Pa. We have 4 1,000+ yard ranges in Pa. and Mifflin is the closest for you. The ranges go out in 100 yard increments. P.S. if you want to shoot long with that 308 you need to load #2156 Sierra match king 155 bullets. They out perform the 175 in 308.
 

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If you want to shoot long range, look into Mifflin sportsman in Lewistown. Pa. We have 4 1,000+ yard ranges in Pa. and Mifflin is the closest for you. The ranges go out in 100 yard increments. P.S. if you want to shoot long with that 308 you need to load #2156 Sierra match king 155 bullets. They out perform the 175 in 308.
Thanks for the info.

The Sako (TRG-22) really likes the Sierra 175 Match King ammo - so far it hasn't been really fond of lighter bullets. It will shoot them for sure, but it really likes the 175 ~ 180 grn bullets.

I have a buddy with a house near Clearfield - we have 650 yrds out the backdoor, and out to 1,200 if we walk a bit (see below).

I'd love to pick your brain on the annealing process - my experience was set the shells in a cookie tray of water - heat with propane torch - knock them over... I see all these purpose built machines and was thinking of building one.
 

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I have never heard of Peterson brass. How long have they been the go-to company?
For several months they have been selling brass, made near Pittsburgh, Pa.
Thanks for the info.

The Sako (TRG-22) really likes the Sierra 175 Match King ammo - so far it hasn't been really fond of lighter bullets. It will shoot them for sure, but it really likes the 175 ~ 180 grn bullets.

I have a buddy with a house near Clearfield - we have 650 yrds out the backdoor, and out to 1,200 if we walk a bit (see below).

I'd love to pick your brain on the annealing process - my experience was set the shells in a cookie tray of water - heat with propane torch - knock them over... I see all these purpose built machines and was thinking of building one.
you don’t heat the necks then tip them in water, you let them air cool like in the photo, this photo was made to demo how they get annealed, once they come in contact with the torch the shell is now sitting on a little turn table for even heat. These are junk Rem 6.5 Creed brass just for the demo. My brass gets annealed every reload. Another thing is you never anneal a case with carbon blowby on the neck as after annealing it will be impossible to remove. There cleaned 1st with 0000 steel wool. You can see in the other photo 2 annealed cases in left and the right is not.
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D39B31E6-525C-40D6-8AB0-2204A85E8A39.jpeg
 

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you don’t heat the necks then tip them in water, you let them air cool like in the photo, this photo was made to demo how they get annealed, once they come in contact with the torch the shell is now sitting on a little turn table for even heat.
Yeah. I've learned that much about annealing at least...

I've been looking at that specific machine - there is another one that is about half the price (runs more vertically with the shells held horizontally).

I'm tempted to build my own. I mentor FIRST Robotics so I have access to the CNC machine shop and all sorts of aluminum stock and small motors with controllers. I have about 6 propane torch heads so I think I have the basics.

Thanks again.

D
 
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