1100 barrel problem
I have 2 1100s and five 1100 barrels of different lengths, chokes, etc. 4 of the barrels are completely interchangeable with no problems. The fifth barrel when installed on either of the two receivers, apparently causes the gun to malfunction, specifically, the spent shell is not ejected. The gun fires normally and the bolt slides back but, for whatever reason, the spent shell is not ejcted and the bolt closes normally. My question is where on the barrel extension do I start looking for the problem? The barrel is a very tight fit on one receiver but fits normally on the other one. I have had 1100s for 25 - 30 years but have never experienced this before. I have had similar situations but it was always a malfunction in the receiver so am not used to a problem that appears to be cntered in the barrle, not the receiver.
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It's either the chamber or the extractor slot.
Can you remove an unfired shell from the chamber by manually cycling the bolt? If not, I would look at the extractor groove. Maybe it's too short in length and is not allowing enough purchase on the rim.
If you can manually extract the shell then I'd look at the chamber. Get a 12 ga bronze cleaning brush, put it on one section of rod, and wrap the brush with fine steel wool. Chuck the rod in a drill. Put a little bit of light oil, Hoppes or Break Free on the steel wool, then polish the chamber. Be sure to move back and forth. Don't let it remain stationary while spinning it. This will polish the chamber clean of debris or corrosion. The chamber needs to be smooth. A really mucked up chamber can grip shells. Especially shells whose base is made from steel, since steel does not "relax" like brass does and loosen its grip on the chamber.
Let us know the results.
Can you remove an unfired shell from the chamber by manually cycling the bolt? If not, I would look at the extractor groove. Maybe it's too short in length and is not allowing enough purchase on the rim.
If you can manually extract the shell then I'd look at the chamber. Get a 12 ga bronze cleaning brush, put it on one section of rod, and wrap the brush with fine steel wool. Chuck the rod in a drill. Put a little bit of light oil, Hoppes or Break Free on the steel wool, then polish the chamber. Be sure to move back and forth. Don't let it remain stationary while spinning it. This will polish the chamber clean of debris or corrosion. The chamber needs to be smooth. A really mucked up chamber can grip shells. Especially shells whose base is made from steel, since steel does not "relax" like brass does and loosen its grip on the chamber.
Let us know the results.
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Me too. I have one barrel that keeps on ticking. Another barrel has copious malfunctions with target loads. It works fine with field loads, and even pigeon loads, but it's dog with target loads.
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mrskeet410, is the barrel that malfunctions with target loads a field barrel or a target barrel? Either way, have you cleaned the gas ports?
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Bad barrel is a field barrel. Ports are clean and the same size, 5/64".
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mrskeet410, t should cycle the heavier target loads, but not the lightest target loads. To do so would require enlargening the ports.
5/64th is .0781".
Non-magnum field barrels of 23", 26", 28" 30", 21" Special Field, and 30" and 34" trap barrels, have .0790" holes (which is just over a #47 drill).
26" skeet barrels are different. They have .0860" holes (which is a #44 drill.)
The first thing I would do is get a #47 drill and clean the ports again, since your 5/64" drill is between a #47 and #48, and the factory spec is a #47 is .0785". Then test again. (Ideally, a 2mm drill works best, since it is .0787", but they're not easy to find.)
If you want to sacrifice heavier field loads for light loads, you can open the ports up incrementally using step drills from #46 down to #44. You'll need to test at each increment using the lightest shells you intend to use. Be absolutely sure you want to do this, since it is difficult to reverse the process. (It can be done, with a lot of work and/or money.)
I have an 1100 barrel that's been opened up for very light loads. The bolt velocity is too high for anything beyond a heavy trap load. If you put a field load in it, you can really feel the recoil from the bolt slamming into the back of the receiver.
5/64th is .0781".
Non-magnum field barrels of 23", 26", 28" 30", 21" Special Field, and 30" and 34" trap barrels, have .0790" holes (which is just over a #47 drill).
26" skeet barrels are different. They have .0860" holes (which is a #44 drill.)
The first thing I would do is get a #47 drill and clean the ports again, since your 5/64" drill is between a #47 and #48, and the factory spec is a #47 is .0785". Then test again. (Ideally, a 2mm drill works best, since it is .0787", but they're not easy to find.)
If you want to sacrifice heavier field loads for light loads, you can open the ports up incrementally using step drills from #46 down to #44. You'll need to test at each increment using the lightest shells you intend to use. Be absolutely sure you want to do this, since it is difficult to reverse the process. (It can be done, with a lot of work and/or money.)
I have an 1100 barrel that's been opened up for very light loads. The bolt velocity is too high for anything beyond a heavy trap load. If you put a field load in it, you can really feel the recoil from the bolt slamming into the back of the receiver.
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