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#23 ·
This thread prompted me to look it up as I wasn't familiar with the TS shell catcher. While it appears they have gone out of business, MWG actually showed having them in stock for the Beretta A400. Obviously, I don't know how up to date their site is or if they still have any. But could be of interest to someone
 
#24 ·
Rabbit-hunter said:
This thread prompted me to look it up as I wasn't familiar with the TS shell catcher. While it appears they have gone out of business, MWG actually showed having them in stock for the Beretta A400. Obviously, I don't know how up to date their site is or if they still have any. But could be of interest to someone
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Just to be clear, TS was purchased by Birchwood Casey. TS at one time offer a lot of variations of their shell catcher for many brands of shell catchers, but during it’s final years, it discontinued a lot of models until it was mostly for the Remington 1100/1187 and Beretta models. Did Birchwood Casey discontinue the TS to eliminate their competitor or did they realize it the market was not their for TS like it used to be.
 
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#25 ·
Rick Barker said:
it discontinued a lot of models until it was mostly for the Remington 1100/1187 and Beretta models.
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With over three million 1100's out there the Birchwood Casey shell catcher was the most popular model. E-bay always have some and I have installed that model on many other shotguns. just a matter of a little cutting and fitting.
 
#26 ·
Canoli said:
I am actually looking for a deflector not a catcher. Something that will drop the empties down close to my feet or side.
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I shoot an A400, and have a T and S shell catcher when shooting trap singles. for everything else, I have a deflector, I'll see if I can locate the manufacturer and post a pic. I couldn't find one specifically for my make and model.

I had to do some serious cutting on it with snips and a dremel, plus use some double sided tape to make it work.

I'm no craftsman and it looks like crap, but works. I think I can get it to also work as a shell catcher, by extending the deflector pin down into the ejection port, haven't tried that yet.
 
#27 ·
Canoli said:
I am actually looking for a deflector not a catcher. Something that will drop the empties down close to my feet or side.
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The most common deflector is a spot weld or bead of epoxy on the barrel lug. A simple deflector can be made with a flat piece of shaped aluminum or plastic. You tape it along the slot the bolt handle travels, providing you use a thin enough material, so that the handle clears the deflector. When the hull comes in contact with the deflector, it will direction of the hull it normally goes. It takes a little experimentation, but it works. Do a search on this web site and you will see some examples.
 
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#28 ·
Rick Barker said:
The most common deflector is a spot weld or bead of epoxy on the barrel lug. A simple deflector can be made with a flat piece of shaped aluminum or plastic. You tape it along the slot the bolt handle travels, providing you use a thin enough material, so that the handle clears the deflector. When the hull comes in contact with the deflector, it will direction of the hull it normally goes. It takes a little experimentation, but it works. Do a search on this web site and you will see some examples.
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I have an 1100 fitted with a trap barrel with a lug. However, it does seem to deflect shells as effectively as I would prefer. I'm not bouncing shells off anyone's Pirazzi - but they do occasionally bounce up to the feet of the shooter to my right. You mention using epoxy. Do you think adding a gob of epoxy to the bump that is already there would increase the effect? What epoxy would you use, and how much?
 
#29 ·
Rainbowbob said:
I have an 1100 fitted with a trap barrel with a lug. However, it does seem to deflect shells as effectively as I would prefer. I'm not bouncing shells off anyone's Pirazzi - but they do occasionally bounce up to the feet of the shooter to my right. You mention using epoxy. Do you think adding a gob of epoxy to the bump that is already there would increase the effect? What epoxy would you use, and how much?
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I am not in favor of epoxy, I am saying other people have posted they use it.

The deflectors I have made are configured this way and that, but the most effective I made was using a piece of aluminum. I fashioned a piece to match the contour of the rib where it sits on the reciever. I made a small leg, 90 degrees that is horizontal, tapped it and put a small hex head bolt that hangs down. I got lucky and found the correct position that causes the bolt to spin the hull around on ejection and the hull to lands at my feet.

I don’t have the gun with me to take a pic, but posted it here years ago. if I find it, I will send you a Pm containing the post.
 
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#31 ·
Rick Barker said:
Aaron G, nice design. I came up with my design because T&S did not make a LH version for the Velocity XLR 5. I have a BW Save it as well because I like to shoot premium shells and want to save them. When shooting doubles or shells I do not want to save, I flip the wire do the BW Save It down and let the deflector pen work. Shells land by my left foot. Made of aluminum with a threaded Allen head screw. Held on with servo tape which is used in model aircraft and stands up to vibration and fuel.

View attachment 1602759
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Rick Barker said:
To make my deflector, I used 1/4 inch aluminum angle. I shaped one side to fit the side of the rib, following it’s sloped contour. The horizontal edge for the “pin,” was drilled and must of that angle cut away so there was just a small flange left, big enough to hold the pin. You can tap that flange or drill a smaller hole and use the threaded Allen head bolt to self tap the flange.

I used several lengths to finally obtain the desired effect of knocking the shell down towards my feet. You can use a small nut on the underside of the flange to lock in the threaded bolt pin and even adjust the length of a long pin. I found the right length after a couple adjustments to shoot doubles, safely without making the guy with a Kreighoff next to me, nervous.

Once you determine what length works, either cut the bolt pin down to what works best, or buy several of the length and keep in your spare parts stash.

You can remove the pin to let your empties fly if you want to.

Servo mounting tape can be found at any hoppy store selling remote control aircraft parts or supplies, or you can mail order. This stuff is very tough and holds a fair amount of weight. It is also very thin, somewhere between 1/16th and 1/8th inch. I have not had to replace the tape since I first put I on, almost two years ago.

Any angled material such as alum, brass steel or even a tough plastic can be used to mount to the side of the rib and hold the bolt pin.

View attachment 1603201


If you don’t have a flat side of the rib that extends over the ejection port, than think about using the same angled material along side the flat of the receiver, behind and above the bolt slot, long eight to extend over the port.

Good luck.
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Rick Barker said:
To use a rubber band, you place the rubber band on the receiver so that with the bolt open, the rubber band is centered in the ejection port, just ahead of the bolt. When the bolt closes after firing, the rubber band is stretched ahead of the ejection port by the bolt handle. When the gun is fired, the band returns to it‘s original position and stops the hull from leaving the ejection port.

i have made simple shell deflectors, by cutting a strip of plastic and mounting it with double side tape as shown in this picture. Nothing fancy, not real pretty, costs only a few cents, but works very well. I can use the catcher for singles ans handicap, fold the catcher wire down and use the deflector for doubles.


Another trick I learned to make the wire shell catcher work better is to slip a small diameter length of plastic tubing (like you would use in an aquarium air line). The tubing reduces the space the hull can escape through, yet does not hinder the ejection of the hull because of the flexing of the wire and tubing. You can see it on the shell catcher wire in the picture below as well as the deflector I added that sits above the slot the bolt handle move in.
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#32 ·
This picture is the flat piece of plastic I taped to the side of the receiver and it deflects hulls away from the shooter next to me, when shooting doubles.




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#33 ·
Rick Barker said:
The most common deflector is a spot weld or bead of epoxy on the barrel lug. A simple deflector can be made with a flat piece of shaped aluminum or plastic. You tape it along the slot the bolt handle travels, providing you use a thin enough material, so that the handle clears the deflector. When the hull comes in contact with the deflector, it will direction of the hull it normally goes. It takes a little experimentation, but it works. Do a search on this web site and you will see some examples.
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Any pictures?
 
#34 · (Edited)
Joe Potosky said:
Any pictures?
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My plastic deflector is shown in post above yours, #32. It Is hard to see because it black plastic on black frame. Circled in yellow. If you enlarge, easier to see. I don’t have a metal bead pic, it has been talked about and posted about here quite often.
 
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#35 ·
BottomBarrel said:
This is exactly why I bought a 3D printer....to make all the accessories no one makes that I want.

There are free versions of 3D modeling SW out there. I'm in process of testing 3 accessories for my A400 now.
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It appears that there are a number of us who own and use 3D printers. Might be fun to have a Thread to share ideas. What do you use for design? I'm still using Tinkercad and it works well enough for me.
 
#37 ·
richg99 said:
It appears that there are a number of us who own and use 3D printers. Might be fun to have a Thread to share ideas. What do you use for design? I'm still using Tinkercad and it works well enough for me.
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Start a thread in “Other Topics” otherwise we will be getting stl/gcode files for kitchen wench tools on the “Shooting Forum.”
 
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#38 ·
richg99 said:
It appears that there are a number of us who own and use 3D printers. Might be fun to have a Thread to share ideas. What do you use for design? I'm still using Tinkercad and it works well enough for me.
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I use Fusion360 and print PETG on a creailty K1. I use PETG because it's UV resistance.

I am testing a shell deflector, crossfire sight, and cleaning rod guide.
 
#39 ·
BottomBarrel said:
I use Fusion360 and print PETG on a creailty K1. I use PETG because it's UV resistance.

I am testing a shell deflector, crossfire sight, and cleaning rod guide.
Click to expand...
I haven't done much for shooting, but I do make a lot of trophies. I made one for myself (Ha Ha ) because no one else was going to.

My SIL won a number of Tennis and Golf tournaments so I made some for her.

I have 3 3d machines. A couple of Enders and one Delta.
Image
Image
 
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