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3D Printing the TS Shell Catcher for Remington 1100 & 11-87

19K views 76 replies 28 participants last post by  SkeeterNY  
#1 ·
I would like to attempt 3D printing a repro of the now-elusive TS Shell Catcher for the Remington 1100 & 11-87. I've been wanting one for a while and I've seen a few recent mentions of it on this forum, so I figured it's worth some time.

Would anyone out there with the plastic version be willing to sit down with a micrometer and send me as many detailed measurements as they can - including some 360 pics?

I'm looking to hire a CAD designer to mock up the model and then I'll attempt to print it myself. I cannot promise success, but if I find it, I'd be happy to send a couple prints to whomever was able to help!

Thanks all!
 
#4 ·
Ah thank you for sharing this detail! I wasn't aware they had a spring steel core. I'll have to try a version that incorporates it. The printing plastics can vary in their pliability, so it will be interesting to experiment with different options. But I'm sure they may start to curl a bit applying and removing numerous times without that core.
 
#9 ·
IF I remember correctly the first TS shell catchers were simply spring steel and painted. They were later coated with plastic to prevent the scratching of the gun during installation and removal. A 3D version printed in nylon might work for a short while, but anything else like PLA, might shatter.
 
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#12 ·
Years ago I was shooting a Super X with a T&S shell catcher. I was at a shoot and a guy I knew ask if he could borrow my shell catcher for a week so he could make some.The next weekend he showed up with a half a dozen shell catchers he had made from sheet brass. Because on the Super X's you need to trim down the bolt handle he had machined out a buch of replacement handles.
His work was somewhat crude but they all worked.
As far as the old metal T&S shell catchers scratching the receivers, if you put electrical tape on the inside of the shell catcher they would not wear the bluing off the gun.
I still have a few 1100's here now and I have had the wire put in a couple of them and I think it works better than the external shell catchers.
 
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#21 ·
I managed to get a hold of a plastic ts catcher to model from! I've worked with one designer so far and printed a few versions with varying success. It's still popping off the receiver occasionally, so not a complete success just yet. Hoping to get back with my designer soon for a couple tweaks :)
 
#24 ·
Has anyone had any success printing a shell catcher? I am trying but not much luck. what material are you using ? do you have a STL file to share? I am trying to print one using PETG but I think it's to flexible. I took some measurements from a plastic TS shell catcher that I borrowed but having fit issues. I am using just a cheap Creality pro 3 printer I think if I had a better printer that could print with some of the carbon fiber materials or something similar it could work.
 
#25 ·
Also interested in topic and joined to participate. I have a friend who is a whiz with 3D printing-runs multiple machines and does the carbon fiber material. I know he would be on this like duck on a Junebug.

The TS shellcatchers available and for sale on eBay are going for $100-we need an alternative!

Let me know.

LHS
 
#28 ·
Here is a link to a shell catcher for a Mossberg. I don’t have an 1100, but maybe I might give it a try for my Model 50 Winchester.

 
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#31 ·
Sadly, I haven't had time to get back into this project for a bit. Hoping I can get back into it in the next couple weeks.

Materials and print quality seems to be going well on my end, but I think it's still a design component that's the problem. The very small lip that curls into the receiver seems to be the most difficult to lock in the appropriate length, thickness etc. It has to be flexible, but not too thin that it easily breaks off. And thin enough that the bolt doesn't kick it out. I'm thinking some filing of my current print may be the next step. Could be some middle ground to the minimum size of my bead.

Hoping to re-enlist my original designer to make some edits.
 
#32 ·
Sadly, I haven't had time to get back into this project for a bit. Hoping I can get back into it in the next couple weeks.

Materials and print quality seems to be going well on my end, but I think it's still a design component that's the problem. The very small lip that curls into the receiver seems to be the most difficult to lock in the appropriate length, thickness etc. It has to be flexible, but not too thin that it easily breaks off. And thin enough that the bolt doesn't kick it out. I'm thinking some filing of my current print may be the next step. Could be some middle ground to the minimum size of my bead.

Hoping to re-enlist my original designer to make some edits.
THANKS! for the update ...

Let me know if you plan to sell the 3D printed items, or if you share the STL file once finalized.

~DaVe
 
#34 ·
 
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#40 ·
This link is for those who are unfamiliar with 3D printing filament.

 
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#41 ·
The "plastic" TS 1100 catchers still had a spring steel core, the plastic was basically just there to protect the receiver finish.

I don't believe any 3d printing technology has advanced enough to print something 20-30 thou thick with the same characteristics of spring steel sheet.

Perhaps you could design something that hooked over the lip of the ejection port and was held onto the side of the action with magnets instead of looping it around the magazine port. I doubt something durable enough could be made by FDM, you might get there with SLA, but SLS would probably be your best bet.

Another option would be to 3d print a negative of the catcher as a two part mold, then mold the catcher from carbon fiber and resin.
 
#42 ·
I think skeet_man has a good idea. Small, rare-earth magnets are pretty easy to source. We use some pretty stout ones for attaching sensors on rotating shafts. We have some small ones about the size of a quarter. Ebay is full of them.
I would suggest using a magnet for attaching the catcher. The printed piece would be pinched between the magnet and the receiver and would just need block the correct section of the ejection port.

regards,

Todd
 
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