Trapshooters Forum banner
41 - 60 of 70 Posts
Looks like MKC makes their blades from 52100 steel (a chromium steel typically used in bearings).

And there in lies the trick - the best knives are made from carbon steel, tool steel, or the like - and your MKC blade is of that class. None of these are stainless so they can rust, although the chromium steel should resist better than the others.

Two other companies to look at are Battle Horse Knives (https://battlehorseknives.com/medium-sized-knives) and Knives of Alaska (which, oddly are made in Texas) (Knives of Alaska: KOA Store).

There is a bunch of 'new kids on the block' types of stainless steel - haven't played with them enough to draw a conclusion, but stainless has typically been too soft to hold an edge well. (Guide to the Best Knife Steel)

I carry a Battle Horse Buckeye knife - D2 tool steel. We dressed 26 deer with it over about two weeks and it touched a sharpening steel one time during all that processing. Good steel makes a good knife.
Yep!
The Montana Knife Company™ Blackfoot Blade 2.0s are made from 52100 high carbon ball-bearing steel. The cryogenically heat-treated blades provide a perfect balance of toughness and edge retention. Once the razor edge has been lost it can be easily sharpened with a small stone. Unlike other knives, the Blackfoot’s edge can be maintained by even novice knife owners. Additionally, the blades have been parkerized to a black finish which will help minimize rust and glare. 52100 is not stainless. After use, clean the blade and occasionally apply a little wax or oil.
 
Yep!
The Montana Knife Company™ Blackfoot Blade 2.0s are made from 52100 high carbon ball-bearing steel. The cryogenically heat-treated blades provide a perfect balance of toughness and edge retention. Once the razor edge has been lost it can be easily sharpened with a small stone. Unlike other knives, the Blackfoot’s edge can be maintained by even novice knife owners. Additionally, the blades have been parkerized to a black finish which will help minimize rust and glare. 52100 is not stainless. After use, clean the blade and occasionally apply a little wax or oil.
Those knives are a wee bit expensive. Bucks knives are good at a third of the price of a MKC.
 
I retired to the NC coast and an old college friend asked me to assist in a fish cleaning operation. We cleaned fish for the charter boat fleet. Mostly we cleaned mahi and tuna, but some bottom fish as well. A began as a scaler and fish skinner, but progressed to knife skills. Very sharp knives were essential. We had a machine that sharpened our knives but we could go for weeks without using it once we discovered F. Dick hypersteel and rapidsteel sharpeners. Knives lasted for years instead of seasons.

The F. Dick spring steels keep edges straight with very little effort. I keep the Rapidsteel at home for kitchen knives and I also take it to deer camp in the Fall.

You can take it from someone who worked every day for five years with a knife (for a profession) that the F. Dick will maintain the sharpness of your knife. You must start with a sharp knife but it will maintain the edge for weeks.
 
So after a successful deer season it has come to my attention that I need to do a better job of sharpening my hunting knives. I am curious as to what other people use to sharpen knives. I am kinda looking at the Work Sharp line of tools but thought maybe there is other products that are better.
I learned at my father's knee............yes, but if HE had been able to access the WORKSHARP tool, I feel secure that would have been his option..............it certainly is mine for the hunting knives, shop knives (taxidermy) and for the kitchen knives.
BTW............when I sharpen the ones for the kitchen, I put a note with them for my wife to use caution.........saves ME a lot of grief. LOL
 
Technical question - how would you sharpen this one??

View attachment 1840608
I have seen the technique,

You have use the right pressure and angle and rock to flake little pieces away along the edge. This freshens the edge sharpness.

Al
 
  • Like
Reactions: TC
Those knives are a wee bit expensive. Bucks knives are good at a third of the price of a MKC.
I understand where you are coming from, and I used to think like that. They are expensive compared to "cheap" knives. I have found buck to have the most brittle blades. Until you have tried a good knife you won't be able to justify the expense. I was "issued" my first quality knife in the USMC. I worked horse trades with Spec Ops to obtain a few more quality blades. I grew up on Case and Kershaw, the only thing I hated, and still do about case, is the non-locking blade. I nearly amputated my fingers on several occasions when the blade folded while I was improperly cutting. I plan to get several more MKC knives. I have a large drawer and several peg board hooks filled with cheap knives I bought for work or have received as gifts. I carry the Gerber/buck/case etc. at work. I cut a lot of tape, zip ties, boxes, cable etc. and always get asked "do you have a knife". My response "Uh, yeah, I am a man don't you". So, I use the drawer of cheap knives for work and loaning. I use good knives as my EDC and hunting. At work, I always have a cheap knife and a good knife. I use the cheap one 80% of the time. As you can see, I get a lot of Gerber knives when they are on sale. They are not good knives like they used to be. They are in the Walmart category of Buck knives.
Image
Image
 
So after a successful deer season it has come to my attention that I need to do a better job of sharpening my hunting knives. I am curious as to what other people use to sharpen knives. I am kinda looking at the Work Sharp line of tools but thought maybe there is other products that are better.
Lansky and others makes a jig that you clamp a blade into it comes with a stand and allows you to sharpen at different angles .It comes with different stones that fit into the jig .It's about 30 dollars and I got mine a gander mountain .Cabelas also has different ones available .I'm sure Amazon also has them .
 
I’ve had two different knife makers make me promise to never use a Work Mate including the Ken Onion one on their knives before they would sell them to me. They claimed the flexing belts these have are a quick and decisive way to ruin a good blade. Obviously they weren’t producing junk Gerber blades.
 
I’ve had two different knife makers make me promise to never use a Work Mate including the Ken Onion one on their knives before they would sell them to me. They claimed the flexing belts these have are a quick and decisive way to ruin a good blade. Obviously they weren’t producing junk Gerber blades.
That is why I now use the WorkSHARP Precision system now.
 
I just purchased a Work Sharp Ken Onion sharpener after years of using stones to sharpen knives. The Work Shop sharpens knives much faster than by stone. It will also get the knife extremely sharp. I don’t own knives costing hundreds of dollars each so won’t pass judgment on the best way of sharpening them. But if you have a factory made knife and want to get a very sharp edge quickly the Work Shop works well.

TJ
 
I understand where you are coming from, and I used to think like that. They are expensive compared to "cheap" knives. I have found buck to have the most brittle blades. Until you have tried a good knife you won't be able to justify the expense. I was "issued" my first quality knife in the USMC. I worked horse trades with Spec Ops to obtain a few more quality blades. I grew up on Case and Kershaw, the only thing I hated, and still do about case, is the non-locking blade. I nearly amputated my fingers on several occasions when the blade folded while I was improperly cutting. I plan to get several more MKC knives. I have a large drawer and several peg board hooks filled with cheap knives I bought for work or have received as gifts. I carry the Gerber/buck/case etc. at work. I cut a lot of tape, zip ties, boxes, cable etc. and always get asked "do you have a knife". My response "Uh, yeah, I am a man don't you". So, I use the drawer of cheap knives for work and loaning. I use good knives as my EDC and hunting. At work, I always have a cheap knife and a good knife. I use the cheap one 80% of the time. As you can see, I get a lot of Gerber knives when they are on sale. They are not good knives like they used to be. They are in the Walmart category of Buck knives. View attachment 1840916 View attachment 1840917
I’ve had two different knife makers make me promise to never use a Work Mate including the Ken Onion one on their knives before they would sell them to me. They claimed the flexing belts these have are a quick and decisive way to ruin a good blade. Obviously they weren’t producing junk Gerber blades.
You guys are right about Gerber knives made now-a-days. I bought a Walmart cheapie this year and it is terrible. Won't hold an edge.
 
Gerber and Kenshaw are the only knives I will buy. I use the Ken Omion Workshop
and finish it with a ceramic rod . Knives have never been sharper but every knife that
gets a lot of use will dull . I don’t have time to use stones and strop.
 
Wicked edge is the best by far for being ocd like me. Had one for over a 10 years. Sharpened alot of other ppl knives for many years with it.
Have the work sharp ken onion
Spydero set
Some oil based arkansas stones
Some dmt stones
Probably 4-6 more systems too

The ken onion work sharp is one i recommend to alot of ppl. But some are get scared of powered belts.

The next best is the KME system. Alot of versatility with it. They also make a broadhead shaperner too.


You can always got the knife maker route is you got the money and skill. And get a 2"x72" belt machine.
 
41 - 60 of 70 Posts