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richie h

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Got caught in the rain for the last 3 stations the other day with my new gun . Brought it to the car and wiped it down with a cotton rag. Now it appears to have water spots in the finish on the gun stock. Cannot get a pic as you can only see them at a certain angle and the phone or camera will not pick them up . The gun has an oil finished stock " I believe" does not appear to have a coating of any kind on it .
Any suggestions as to the removal of these or using a specific type of wax to minimize the appearance of said .
Thanks much Richie
 
my guess is that your gun is a beretta,cg ; or any other shotgun that claims that the finish is oil. that may be, but it is not a finish, it is only a start. this is the fastest and easiest finish to put on a gunstock. it is not durable; it will wear thru and waterspot. the quickest fix is watco danish oil. remove the wood, and saturate it with the danish oil. let it soak and keep it wet for 30 minutes or so. wipe it off completly. scrub the checkering with tooth brushes and keep patting the checkering with cloth or paper towels. let it dry for 2+ days. the wood might have a slight sheen. repeat if you wish. but succesive coats will start to turn to gloss. i think 2 sessions is enough. you CAN'T mess this up. oh, as a added note i suggest i suggest natural tone danish unless you want to darken the wood.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
Got caught in the rain for the last 3 stations the other day with my new gun . Brought it to the car and wiped it down with a cotton rag. Now it appears to have water spots in the finish on the gun stock. Cannot get a pic as you can only see them at a certain angle and the phone or camera will not pick them up . The gun has an oil finished stock " I believe" does not appear to have a coating of any kind on it .
Any suggestions as to the removal of these or using a specific type of wax to minimize the appearance of said .
Thanks much Richie

Got some pics
 

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Discussion starter · #6 · (Edited)
my guess is that your gun is a beretta,cg ; or any other shotgun that claims that the finish is oil. that may be, but it is not a finish, it is only a start. this is the fastest and easiest finish to put on a gunstock. it is not durable; it will wear thru and waterspot. the quickest fix is watco danish oil. remove the wood, and saturate it with the danish oil. let it soak and keep it wet for 30 minutes or so. wipe it off completly. scrub the checkering with tooth brushes and keep patting the checkering with cloth or paper towels. let it dry for 2+ days. the wood might have a slight sheen. repeat if you wish. but succesive coats will start to turn to gloss. i think 2 sessions is enough. you CAN'T mess this up. oh, as a added note i suggest i suggest natural tone danish unless you want to darken the wood.
You are right , Brand new Beretta. Saturate with a rag ,correct. The Watco has a varnish type sealer in it . Made by Rustoleum. Would this seal in the water spots?
 
it won't seal in the water spots. it will just make them go away. i would use a cheap throw away brush; more easy to get a uniform flow. i belive that howards products will never dry as will watco. i don't have any howards products. for those of you that do have ; rub a thin coat on a piece of glass or metal and see if it does dry and become hardened. let us know
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
it won't seal in the water spots. it will just make them go away. i would use a cheap throw away brush; more easy to get a uniform flow. i belive that howards products will never dry as will watco. i don't have any howards products. for those of you that do have ; rub a thin coat on a piece of glass or metal and see if it does dry and become hardened. let us know
I am assuming you took a look at the pics I posted afterwards. I spoke with Beretta . They told me to clean the stock with mineral spirits to dry out the spots . ha ha ha I did that the 2nd pic is when the stock is still wet . The rest of them dry .. So now the stock should be clean enough to do what you are saying and a 1/2 hour dry time for the Watco will not be excessive . Thanks Richie
 
I am a furniture builder and over the last 25 years I have used and experimented with nearly every coatings system I could find a use for. Beretta uses tru-oil in your gun's case. When using oil finishes I have found the best results come from tung oil-based varnishes that require multiple coats. You ultimately have two options in my professional opinion: recoat several times with tru-oil or have the stock refinished. Recoating is a snap if you have time: lightly sand with 320 sand paper, wipe down with acetone, apply tru-oil with a rag, let dry (in a low humidity environment) for 2 days, buff the glossy film off with 00 or 000 steel wool, and repeat 5 or 6 times (without the acetone). A deeper, more beautiful finish will appear if you coat it 10 or 12 times. Use paste wax occasionally and buff for decades of use (as often as a church-goer might polish their leather shoes). Do not put wax on it the way it is now because of the old rule that "you can put wax on oil but you can not put oil on wax."
A little more on option two: The highest quality results that I have achieved or seen on other's fine work are finish systems that use an epoxy sealer, and then are top-coated with a premium varnish. Excellent finishes take time, expensive equipment, or both. The amount of money that you spend will be commiserate with the quality of end product that you receive. On the bright side: If refinishing the stock, you have a great opportunity to make any fitting adjustments and to recut or deepen the checkering.
 
richie:
in 1/2 hr, the watco will not dry. keeping it wet that long assures full penetration. next, beretta never used tru oil and tru oil is not a oil finish in is more like varnish. having finished several hundred gunstocks in my career i have developed a little knowledge. i started out with tri oil then switched to gun sav 'r custom oil. it gives the beauty of tru oil but, is more durable. the above thread is very informative; but acheving a beautiful stock finish is not for the novice. i have seen many refinished stocks that someone paid money to have done or, did it themselves. i would have been ashamed to show them. the watco finish i suggested is very easy for a novice. something that i did not mention is the watco can't be used on a "hard" finish; such as k-80s kolars, perazzis; only on stocks with oil type finishes
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
richie:
in 1/2 hr, the watco will not dry. keeping it wet that long assures full penetration. next, beretta never used tru oil and tru oil is not a oil finish in is more like varnish. having finished several hundred gunstocks in my career i have developed a little knowledge. i started out with tri oil then switched to gun sav 'r custom oil. it gives the beauty of tru oil but, is more durable. the above thread is very informative; but acheving a beautiful stock finish is not for the novice. i have seen many refinished stocks that someone paid money to have done or, did it themselves. i would have been ashamed to show them. the watco finish i suggested is very easy for a novice. something that i did not mention is the watco can't be used on a "hard" finish; such as k-80s kolars, perazzis; only on stocks with oil type finishes
Thank You. Believe I will try this . Have a decent day.
 
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