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Re-Blue or Ceracote?

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#21 ·
I go with my knowledge, that is bluing. At least for the barrel. Blue it.

The reciever and forend iron and trigger group, nickel plate
Conservative all one polish or matt
Or dull finish on the top tang and lever and really high polish on the sides and bottom.


Al
 
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#22 ·
One question, can you keep your paws off the receiver?
If you can't, Cerakote is the most durable finish you can put on a gun, it leaves no fingerprints, no sweat, no oil traces.
Most tactical firearms are Cerakoted these days because of its durability.
The biggest challenge of Cerakote is choosing the color.

If you want the traditional look, bluing is better. But there's no point going through re-blue every few years if you can't keep your hands off the metal.
 
#23 ·
Cerakote would be VERY difficult to undo, you'd need to sand/blast it off out of every tiny nook and cranny. Not impossible, but it must be mechanically removed, you can't chemically remove it, at least not with anything consumer grade, and I'm pretty sure there isn't even anything commercial grade that'll do it.

That's the gamble. EX if you have a Perazzi and need to resolder the ribs, trying to do that on a gun that's been cerakoted would be significantly more difficult and expensive.

Parkerizing is completely different than cerakote.
 
#25 ·
skeet_man said:
Cerakote would be VERY difficult to undo, you'd need to sand/blast it off out of every tiny nook and cranny. Not impossible, but it must be mechanically removed, you can't chemically remove it, at least not with anything consumer grade, and I'm pretty sure there isn't even anything commercial grade that'll do it.

That's the gamble. EX if you have a Perazzi and need to resolder the ribs, trying to do that on a gun that's been cerakoted would be significantly more difficult and expensive.

Parkerizing is completely different than cerakote.
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Skeetman has a point about re- soldering ribs, could be problematic.
 
#27 ·
resale wise- there is this thot from buyer “ has it covered up a problem”?
 
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#28 ·
Snooky said:
Can that even be done?
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It would take a ton of work.
Cerakote prep requires bead blasting the surface for proper adhesion and from what I have seen it would have to be bead blasted off to remove it. After that it would have to be repolished to a smooth surface for bluing.
 
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#30 ·
Cerakote prep involves bead blasting however the media is a soft plastic that in no way abrades the surface. Cerakote will not fill pits or hide surface imperfections. Other than not being the traditional finish & what was mentioned earlier about re soldering a loose rib I see no downside to cerakote.
 
#31 ·
losclay said:
Cerakote prep involves bead blasting however the media is a soft plastic that in no way abrades the surface. Cerakote will not fill pits or hide surface imperfections. Other than not being the traditional finish & what was mentioned earlier about re soldering a loose rib I see no downside to cerakote.
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This is from the Cerakote prep instructions
1) Remove all coatings, oils, and contaminants from substrate with either a de-greasing chemical and/or by heating substrate to temperatures high enough to remove coatings or contaminants.
2) A lightly blasted profile (~40 psi) must be applied to the substrate to remove any rust, scale, or other coatings. This is also required to ensure maximum adhesion. For best results use a dry grit material such as aluminum oxide or garnet equivalent to a 100 - 120 mesh size. Glass beads are not recommended as they are not aggressive enough to produce a sufficient blast profile.

 
#37 ·
trim tab said:
Keep the gun original. That's where the value is. . ReBlue!!!!! Going the other way, degrades the value.
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There is that, then there are a lot of target shooters who look at their guns as tools and take care of them. I have never bought a gun from a collectors stand point. I shoot them And I want them to look nice and I want them to last.
 
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