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mfm22

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I need a scale and will probably get mechanical beam & digital .

The Beam scale that gets touted the most is RCBS . They are $ & hard to find

looked at some others and came across Hornady lock & load beam scale - made in USA & seems well made not cheap but under $ 100

any recommendations are welcome
 
I have had my RCBS beam for almost 50 years. You might try the used market, lots of people giving up reloading. I find all kinds of stuff at gun shows, others like to shop eBay. There is a beam scale on there right now for $38.00. I have come by a few other beam scale brands over the years, picked for a few dollars here and there, not as good as RCBS.


As far as a digital, there are some suitable ones like Lyman and Franklin Arsenal that will work, are very affordable and be just as close as an RCBS beam.
 
RCBS and Lyman scales are great, Hornaday scales OK, LEE scales are complete crap. Forgot to mention, Dillon balance beam scales are great as well. However, in latest Dillon Blue Press catalog, Dillon doens't have a balance scale in their lineup. (IMHO! And, I've used them all)
 
I have the Lyman Pocket touch. It was inexpensive and seems to work well. I don't have a different one to compare to but it comes with a calibration weight. I calibrate it every time and it seems very reproducible. I TARE out (zero) an empty hull. I can take that hull on and off multiple times and it always comes back to zero. I do a test drop into that hull and put it back on the scale. I do this three times with the same hull and I blow out the hull each time with Dust-Off to make sure all of the powder comes out. Dropping into a hull seems to work better than dropping into the powder funnel/dish that comes with the scale. Powder bounces and scatters from the little dish.
 
As long as the pivots do not get damaged, a beam balance is stable for it's entire life.

An electric scale depends on a load cell bridge, that drifts with age and heat. That is why you need to zero and span calibrate it each time you turn it on. Technically there is a warm up time to stabilize the temperature on the load bridge each time, but for our use is not that picky. Electronics do fail, I only have two electronic items that are over 25 years old that still work.

The RCBS and many others that are OHAUS design/production with the agate pivot blocks for low stiction will outlast any of us, and are pretty cheap.

From someone that has actually been in a gen 2 standards clean room calibration lab, they certify electronic scales for critical accuracy by comparing them to balance type scales.
 
As long as the pivots do not get damaged, a beam balance is stable for it's entire life.

An electric scale depends on a load cell bridge, that drifts with age and heat. That is why you need to zero and span calibrate it each time you turn it on. Technically there is a warm up time to stabilize the temperature on the load bridge each time, but for our use is not that picky. Electronics do fail, I only have two electronic items that are over 25 years old that still work.

The RCBS and many others that are OHAUS design/production with the agate pivot blocks for low stiction will outlast any of us, and are pretty cheap.

From someone that has actually been in a gen 2 standards clean room calibration lab, they certify electronic scales for critical accuracy by comparing them to balance type scales.
My RCBS says to warm up for 20 minutes before calibration. I also have test weights from RCBS to verify my scales. Some people don't read the instructions before using new equipment.
 
I have the Lyman Pocket touch. It was inexpensive and seems to work well. I don't have a different one to compare to but it comes with a calibration weight. I calibrate it every time and it seems very reproducible. I TARE out (zero) an empty hull. I can take that hull on and off multiple times and it always comes back to zero. I do a test drop into that hull and put it back on the scale. I do this three times with the same hull and I blow out the hull each time with Dust-Off to make sure all of the powder comes out. Dropping into a hull seems to work better than dropping into the powder funnel/dish that comes with the scale. Powder bounces and scatters from the little dish.
I have the Frankford pocket digital and I do the exact same thing with tarring and empty hull, except I don’t bother blowing it out.

mine came with a 50 gram test weight and I also have a nickel that is exactly 5 grams that I use to double check as well

Michael
 
Some people still fondly remember the old three-on-the-tree manual transmission. Most people now prefer automatic transmissions. Like others I really like the tare feature. Zero a hull, drop charges, weigh and average five or more charges. In the second photo are the test weights for this scale. I lost them somehow and called Lyman to buy more. They sent them for free. I have an RCBS beam scale. It is in the closet with my manually cranked roll crimper.

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I use two rcbs 1010 scales, one tuned by Scott Parker. It will weigh to +or minus 1/10 of a grain. Set up an old cell phone to make seeing the balance point easier. I have a rcbs charge master. It's bad out of the box as far as consistent charge until I got on youtub and read how to modify and reprogram. Getting ready to order a f&d fx120i. Pricey but everyone who has one swears by them. You really want a heart attack Google a promethus scale!
 
I think the main issue with the balance bean is that it would be hard to get a hull on there. I think you have to use the little pan and I really had problems dropping into a pan. Especially powder like WST. If you drop into a hull and pour that into the pan, not quite all of it transfers. Some of it sticks in the hull. I gave up on digital scales in my bathroom and have had a balance scale for myself for years but my little Lyman seems to work really well.
 
I have the Frankford pocket digital and I do the exact same thing with tarring and empty hull, except I don’t bother blowing it out.

mine came with a 50 gram test weight and I also have a nickel that is exactly 5 grams that I use to double check as well

Michael
I second the Franklin Arsenal digital scale. They are accurate, hold their calibration, very easy to use and read, battery lasts a very long time and they are inexpensive.

My RCBS 1010 balance beam is a pain to drag out, set up and calibrate each time I just want to check a powder drop. It's much more difficult for my old eyes to see the readings and offers no advantage over the cheap Franklin.

I had an RCBS RangeMaster digital scale but it had to be recalibrated every time I turned it on and would lose calibration during extended use.
 
I have used the RCBS 505 since I started loading nearly 50 years ago, and found it to be the best for reloading shotgun. I marked a spot on the bench where I set it up, and that made it easier to calibrate, as I was sure that spot was clear of my working area and would stay calibrated so long as I stayed away from bumping it. The one drawback about the 505 that I've found is that if any dust gets in the saddle for the beam arms, it will throw a false reading because the dust impedes the free movement of the beam arms. I discovered this when a buddy overcharged his 7mmRemington Magnum and had a nearly catastrophic failure, with a bulged chamber, broken bolt face, and the case stuck in the bulged chamber. When I went through his reloading procedures with him and compared his powder charges with my electronic scale, they were as much as 2.1 grains low and 3.5 grains high, with none right bang on. Close inspection of the scale revealed dust in the saddles blocking free swing of the beam arms, so a word of warning to all: If you load in a dusty area using a balance beam scale, either put it away in a dust free environment, or lift the beam out and clean the saddles and beam arms before you start loading.
I have also used the Hornady beam scale (not bad, but not as user friendly as the RCBs) and an electronic scale. The electronic scale was okay, but after comparing powder drops on both scales, I found that the longer the electronic scale stayed on, it seemed to wander in accuracy. When I moved into my new gun room, I found that the fluorescent overhead light affected the accuracy, as did having the window open for fresh air when a light breeze blew across the bench. If I hadn't been watching the empty pan when the breeze blew in, I never would have known that. As soon as the battery started losing charge the accuracy suffered, as well.
 
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