So I am in the process of refinishing my k80 stock. It's been sanded, filled, conditioned and stained today. So I am going with either about 30 coats of truoil or maybe 6 to 8 coats of wipe on poly. Just wondering pros and cons of each. I like the high gloss of the poly and think it maybe less intensive, but the oil is easier to fix if necessary
Truoil versus minwax wipe on poly
Catching Chrome
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So I am in the process of refinishing my k80 stock. It's been sanded, filled, conditioned and stained today. So I am going with either about 30 coats of truoil or maybe 6 to 8 coats of wipe on poly. Just wondering pros and cons of each. I like the high gloss of the poly and think it maybe less intensive, but the oil is easier to fix if necessary
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10at6 what are you thinning the poly with?
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I have recently tried the wipe on poly. It dries very quickly it seems. You have to get it on the stock evenly and move around until covered. You have very little time to go and touch up an area if missed without a wipe mark. It goes on thin.
The problem with using oil to get a gloss finish is it takes many more coats, and longer to dry in between. The quickest is the most expensive, two part Automotive acrylic sprayed on with an HVLP gun. 10 minutes between coats, and once dry wet sand and buff to a shine.
The problem with using oil to get a gloss finish is it takes many more coats, and longer to dry in between. The quickest is the most expensive, two part Automotive acrylic sprayed on with an HVLP gun. 10 minutes between coats, and once dry wet sand and buff to a shine.
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I posted this earlier today on a similar thread asking about True oil or wipe on poly. You can see the stock I recently finished before polish. I used rotten stone to knock down the gloss some but I may revisit the polishing process to bring up some more gloss. I used the liquid form of this product which was not easy to apply. I lost count after 30 some odd coats. Im told by some experienced re finishers the spray is far easier & dosn't take as long & its much friendlier for production work.
Through all that junk away it’s strictly the DIY grade crap for stock finishing.Chem Pak gun saver In the aerosol can from Brownells. I believe it’s a combination of Tung oil & urethane with dryers added. This is what many professionals use. They also have it in non aerosol cans you would apply as you would a French finish but I wouldn’t recommend it for a first timer.
The Urethane sprays work well but once damaged its pretty much damaged. Urethanes dont spot well as they dont melt into the previous finish like a lacquer would. repairs would require a complete overall refinish & you will most likely still see the "spot" under the new clear.
![1726255]( "1726255")
![1726256]( "1726256")
![1726257]( "1726257")
Through all that junk away it’s strictly the DIY grade crap for stock finishing.Chem Pak gun saver In the aerosol can from Brownells. I believe it’s a combination of Tung oil & urethane with dryers added. This is what many professionals use. They also have it in non aerosol cans you would apply as you would a French finish but I wouldn’t recommend it for a first timer.
The Urethane sprays work well but once damaged its pretty much damaged. Urethanes dont spot well as they dont melt into the previous finish like a lacquer would. repairs would require a complete overall refinish & you will most likely still see the "spot" under the new clear.
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Beautiful!
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The Chem-Pak spay is about all I use. Comes out great and is repairable. Field guns for a satin finish I sand as normal then sand between coats to get a level filled finish. normally 3-4 coats. last coat not sanded when finished. For a gloss finish up to 10-15 light coats until thick enough to buff to a gloss without going through. They used to offer a gloss finish that worked a little better but the satin will buff to a nice gloss.I posted this earlier today on a similar thread asking about True oil or wipe on poly. You can see the stock I recently finished before polish. I used rotten stone to knock down the gloss some but I may revisit the polishing process to bring up some more gloss. I used the liquid form of this product which was not easy to apply. I lost count after 30 some odd coats. Im told by some experienced re finishers the spray is far easier & dosn't take as long & its much friendlier for production work.
Through all that junk away it’s strictly the DIY grade crap for stock finishing.Chem Pak gun saver In the aerosol can from Brownells. I believe it’s a combination of Tung oil & urethane with dryers added. This is what many professionals use. They also have it in non aerosol cans you would apply as you would a French finish but I wouldn’t recommend it for a first timer.
The Urethane sprays work well but once damaged its pretty much damaged. Urethanes dont spot well as they dont melt into the previous finish like a lacquer would. repairs would require a complete overall refinish & you will most likely still see the "spot" under the new clear.
![1726255]( "1726255")
![1726256]( "1726256")
![1726257]( "1726257")
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