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jerseygeo

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I have 2 1100 TRAP guns. I shoot 3/4 oz. reloads using AA hulls Win primers 16.8 red dot One gun cycles and latches back, the other belches at least once a round and does not latch and closes back up. Clean and lube faithfully. Any Ideas?THANKS
 
First, try swapping barrels and see if the problem follows the barrel.
I use pink Claybuster wads and Titewad powder, which creates more pressure than Red Dot. I don’t have any problems running 3/4 oz in my semi auto gas guns. Shoot them wet.
 
Strength of the action spring. Older usually means shorter spring and less resistance to movement of the bolt carrier etc..
Action spring follwer clean and not gouged
The "tuning Fork" is in good condition and both arms are smooth where they fit inthe follower.
The slots in the receiver where the "tuning fork" slides are cleaned and greased
Action bars straight and not rubbing on receiver sides
Gas ports properly cleaned
Both barrels are same diameter. One is not backbored?
O-Ring barrel seal in good condition.
Gas rings not broken and if the two piece ring is used, the slots are set 180 dg apart.
Dirty or rough/rusty chamber
Action bar sleeve damaged/bent
hammer binding when bolt is traveling back
bent or bulged magazine tube
carrier latch timing or warpage/binding or broken
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
Discussion starter · #15 ·
I am going to plan B now. I am going to check the action spring and tube. Someone also mentioned the action latch. I have a new latch, spring and snap ring. I need to find someone with steady hands and patience, which I have neither.
 
Joe,
I like to use an aid when taking out the short retaining cross pin that holds the keeper in for the Action Spring in the back end of the tube under the stock.
I use a 38 special empty case to apply downward pressure on the keeper with my thumb on the 38 case. With my other hand I use a drift to slide out the retention pin. Once that is out and the drift is holding the keeper in I then get a good grip on the tube and slip out the drift controlling the spring as it comes out of the tube. Its got a good bit of compression and can launch if you let go. Safety glasses and a good place where it wont damage anything are a good idea.
This is a critical maintenance check and most 1100's never get it.
Clean the tube out with a rifle brush. Clean the other parts with whatever you like. If your committed to light loads you likely don't need a new spring with its increased tension.
I really like the Break Free CPL in the autos. (I have found Rem Oil to gum up under the heat of the gas action piston) I use CLP on the springs and in the tubes as a cleaner and lube. Also on the rails and piston. The outside of the mag tube is coated with it by moving the piston before reassembly. A light coat should be all you need.
The original 1100 article that was stickied here at TS recommended grease on top of the barrel where it contact the inside of the receiver and just under the chamber where it touches the top of the mag tube block. Not for cycling but for the contact Metal to Metal. Also grease the threads on the mag tube cap which holds the fore end on.
My 2 3\4 chamber barrels with two holes in the gas block under the barrel will cycle light loads if I do the maintenance.
Good luck
 
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