I have a rather old Browning BT 99 that is in excellent condition except for a few creases in the stock. The finish is the standard Browning glossy finish that some describe as plastic. I would like to strip it off and refinishing using a boiled linseed oil finish. Can anyone recommend a good stripper to remove the original finish?
Stripper for Browning glossy stock finish.
IndyTrapGuy
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I have a rather old Browning BT 99 that is in excellent condition except for a few creases in the stock. The finish is the standard Browning glossy finish that some describe as plastic. I would like to strip it off and refinishing using a boiled linseed oil finish. Can anyone recommend a good stripper to remove the original finish?
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63 Posts
Jasco paint stripper available at Lowes and Home depot works well along with Zip strip. You will more than likely have to apply more than one application to get all the finish to come off. I would suggest at least 32Oz.
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1,817 Posts
My favorite stripper is Susie, but she is pretty expensive. If you try her, you will forget about a few wrinkles.
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693 Posts
i use airplane stripper it will soften up enough to scrap off
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101 Posts
I really like Orange Citrus stripper. It takes a good 24 hours after you apply to work itself through, but works great and is not toxic. Give it a try!
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Jasco and Zip-Strip are similar. The older Zip-Strip was the best and most powerful. I think they had to weaken it down because of the strength and burning it caused. You will need very heavy duty non-chemical reacting rubber gloves. The current formulas are weaker and require much more time to soften the Browning finish, but will still burn your skin.
Wrap the stock in tin foil after applying the stripper to keep it moist. Go do some other work for a while, come back and reapply. Do this for a few hours or so and try to scrap some of the finish off with a dull edged putty knife. Make sure the edge is rounded off! After a while the finish will buckle and bunch up in front of the blade. Once this happens the remover starts to work better coming in from underneath the finish also. Use a toothbrush to clean the checkering out in a circular motion. This is a slow process that requires the formula to work. Sometimes even overnight works best. Once you have the finish completely removed flush, or wipe with lightly soaped hot water. Final flush with clean water. Do the same to the checkering to clean out. Let it dry for a week before you start working toward the finishing. Try not to get water down in the bolt hole.
Also remember that any glass bedding that was there will also be removed along with check fills and such. This should all be replaced before finishing.
Wrap the stock in tin foil after applying the stripper to keep it moist. Go do some other work for a while, come back and reapply. Do this for a few hours or so and try to scrap some of the finish off with a dull edged putty knife. Make sure the edge is rounded off! After a while the finish will buckle and bunch up in front of the blade. Once this happens the remover starts to work better coming in from underneath the finish also. Use a toothbrush to clean the checkering out in a circular motion. This is a slow process that requires the formula to work. Sometimes even overnight works best. Once you have the finish completely removed flush, or wipe with lightly soaped hot water. Final flush with clean water. Do the same to the checkering to clean out. Let it dry for a week before you start working toward the finishing. Try not to get water down in the bolt hole.
Also remember that any glass bedding that was there will also be removed along with check fills and such. This should all be replaced before finishing.
Might remove wrinkles in something!
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Scrape it off with a 6" knife blade ....then start sanding with 200 grit sand paper.
By scraping you will not have as many pores to fill when you start WET sanding.
I have used "Artist Quality" lindseed oil and find it hard to work with and requires
longer to dry between coats. I have used many brands of "London" oil finish.....BUT
I have found TRU OIL (cut with Japan Dryer) to be the best.
After dry sanding ....start wet sanding with 400 grit wet/dry sand paper....after
a few coats go to 600 grit .....then finish with several coats applied as thinly as
possible. Also.....leave your recoil pad attached (masked off for wet sanding)through the WHOLE process.
By scraping you will not have as many pores to fill when you start WET sanding.
I have used "Artist Quality" lindseed oil and find it hard to work with and requires
longer to dry between coats. I have used many brands of "London" oil finish.....BUT
I have found TRU OIL (cut with Japan Dryer) to be the best.
After dry sanding ....start wet sanding with 400 grit wet/dry sand paper....after
a few coats go to 600 grit .....then finish with several coats applied as thinly as
possible. Also.....leave your recoil pad attached (masked off for wet sanding)through the WHOLE process.
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2,644 Posts
BLO is the crappiest finish you can use on a gun.
Do a search and better your chances of something worthwhile
Do a search and better your chances of something worthwhile
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30,336 Posts
Minwax Antique Oil Finish, properly applied, is damn good.
Secret is, "Properly Applied".
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1,109 Posts
I stripped one using MEK. Just soaked it for a day, and the finish fell off. MEK can be nasty.
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62 Posts
Yep, I can handle most solvents, but that stuff is just too obnoxious.
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5,107 Posts
Sand paper its all I use. I do use an orbital dewalt palm sander and i can strip a butt stock and forend with no damage to the checkering in a few hours at most. Sanding is much safer than stripper on inletting that may swell with application of water. Get 150 and 220 grit 5" hook and loop sand paper from home depot it works better than anything.
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4,830 Posts
Apply stripper with a 1" paint brush. After it starts to bubble up, usually within
15 minutes, scrub the old finish off with 00 steel wool. Wear rubber gloves.
I start the sanding with 240 grit and then to 400 grit. Wrap the sand paper
around a large flat pencil eraser. If you are not patient, don't start the project.
15 minutes, scrub the old finish off with 00 steel wool. Wear rubber gloves.
I start the sanding with 240 grit and then to 400 grit. Wrap the sand paper
around a large flat pencil eraser. If you are not patient, don't start the project.
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5,107 Posts
Please don't use stripper! It may or may not work. Ruining a stock because you damage the inletting is a costly mistake.
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