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STUCK CHOKE!!! in Browning BT99 Plus. Help me get it out.

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#41 ·
It's only a version of a pipe extractor. Would be my last resort also. I can't say I've ever had any big choke issues. Have helped others. I sort of like "jacksback" idea of sort of exercising the threads with the 1/2 turn on occasion. I only do the finger tight on Brownings and Berettas and don't have blow by or seizing problems. Common sense would tell you to clean and check your chokes on occasion. So many things on the market to use as lubricants. Most good, some bad. Some you can't go wrong using but if you make a decision to use none you'll have the situation of the original post. Cross thread......that's not a lube problem.....than you'll have to chase your threads.
 
#43 ·
more25s said:
This Plus is my neighbors gun. She did not clean her gun for a while and let it sit for a long time without touching the choke. Many of us at the club have tried to remove it but its not happening. We broke 2 of the good Browning T wrench chokes tools, and bent a standard tool on it. She filled a cap up with PB blaster and let it soak for over a month during winter and still nothing. I tried to tell her to forget about it and let it go because she won top women in our league 3 years in a row with it like that, but she refuses and wants it out..

So here I am turning to the pro's, how can I help her get this choke out?

Thanks in advance for any advise.
Click to expand...
cutting torch, be glad it is an inexpensive gun.
 
#44 ·
Every year I need to remove 2-3 stuck chokes that duck hunters do not remove after the season is over. If they're lucky and have a stainless steel choke tube, then the rust is only in the counter-bored area of the barrel. A little heat and a soak in oil and the choke will come out...with a little persuasion.

If the choke tube is not stainless, the job becomes more difficult because both the barrel and choke tube has developed rust and have bound themselves together. Oils are just a form of lubricant and will not dissolve the rust. If it could, it would also remove the bluing...which is a form of rust...black oxide.

Heat and and good wrench are going to be needed. I use an older steel Beretta wrench that has served me well. I also have taken an old forcing cone reamer and reground it to a left-hand cut to work like an easy out...similar to the Bass Ass Tool but with a longer taper. You'll need to heat the barrel with an oxy-acet torch. A propane torch will not get you hot enough, and yes, you will highly likely mess up the bluing. The post on the end of the barrel is silver-soldered on, so keep the heat under 1000*. The solder will soften at 1200*. You will also need a long-handled tool to turn the choke. I use a pipe wrench on my Beretta tool.

The choke tube will squeak and squeal as its being turned. Your chances of saving the choke is 50/50. Once the threads have parted, you may need to turn a plug to fit the choke I.D. and use a large channel locks to wiggle it free from the barrel.

I know this all sounds extreme and ham-handed, but it works. I have had only two choke tubes I could not remove...one was an older Browning invector choke that was cracked all along one side of the choke, it went back to Browning. The other was a Beretta after-market choke that the customer has broken a part of the extended choke off, attempting to remove the stuck choke. Because this O/U barrel was soft-soldered (450 degrees) I could not apply the necessary heat. It was a Briley ported tube and it went back to Briley.

Doug
 
#47 ·
This is the best way to use Kroil to solve your problem. Take a small diameter, but tall empty jar. The kind like olives come in is good. Fill it high enough with Kroil so when you stand the barrel in it muzzle first, the ENTIRE CHOKE TUBE IS IMMERSED IN KROIL. This is important.

What works even better is if you heat the Kroil. If you set the jar on top of one of those small, electric hot plates turned to WARM, it will allow the Kroil to work better. You don't need to get it boiling hot. Leave it set for several days like that. I can all but guarantee you it will come out. Just be sure the gun won't fall over. When I did this with a friends gun, (BT-99 Invector Plus), we hung the gun from a bike hook in the garage, with the Kroil jar on a small end table. It worked perfectly. Yes, it's a bit unorthodox, BUT IT WORKS.
 
Discussion starter · #50 ·
j2jake said:
Let us know what finally works. Jake
Click to expand...
Well she brought me her daughters Beretta 391 to clean yesterday, :mad: what a mess!!! It was all seized up. It took 2 men and huge pair of channel locks (wrapped in rubber) just to get the magazine cap off for dis-assembly. I said, I tell you all the time to bring it to me every 250 rounds and it will be easier on me, and better for the gun. They live half of a block away, and I help these ladies out for free. They are very nice, love to shoot, and have nobody else. Anyways, I mentioned getting the Kroil since we are off from our league for the week of the 4th and she said she wants to wait for league to be over before we try anything. I said 10 more week and 500 more rounds will definitely not help our situation!!! Buuuuut she declined because she is shooting good and doesnt want to mess with it.. :confused::confused::confused: I cant argue with her, all I can do is make suggestions..
 
#51 · (Edited)
more25s said:
Well she brought me her daughters Beretta 391 to clean yesterday, :mad: what a mess!!! It was all seized up. It took 2 men and huge pair of channel locks (wrapped in rubber) just to get the magazine cap off for dis-assembly. I said, I tell you all the time to bring it to me every 250 rounds and it will be easier on me, and better for the gun. They live half of a block away, and I help these ladies out for free. They are very nice, love to shoot, and have nobody else. Anyways, I mentioned getting the Kroil since we are off from our league for the week of the 4th and she said she wants to wait for league to be over before we try anything. I said 10 more week and 500 more rounds will definitely not help our situation!!! Buuuuut she declined because she is shooting good and doesnt want to mess with it.. :confused::confused::confused: I cant argue with her, all I can do is make suggestions..
Click to expand...
I didn't know you can shoot a semi-auto to this point without maintenance or even lubrication .
This makes a good testament about the 391. :)
 
#53 ·
triton21 said:
If you have gone this far with all the recomendations and its still hung up the Bad Ass tool is your best answer...I also
have used the tool and it works......I will be glad to let you borrow mine if you want just email me and let me know
where to send it .....cmayer@frontier.com send it back when your done you will not be disappointed
Click to expand...
Can you contact me would be interested in trying this tool before I by one
 
#56 ·
This is probably pretty extreme but it works on bearing races in semi truck hubs and tractor axle housings. Run a small bead of weld [ with a arc welder] on the choke tube and let it cool completely. The weld will shrink the tube slightly and the electricity from the weld going thru the rusted area will break it's grip. The tube will be ruined but I bet it will come out. With the thinness of the choke tube the welder will have to be turned down very low.
 
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