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Lubricating a break open shotgun

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40K views 73 replies 43 participants last post by  Shotshell99  
#1 ·
Looking for opinions on this subject.

How many of you apply a thin layer of grease or oil on the sidewalls of the monobloc on your break open shotgun? I am developing light scratches on the jeweling. Would I be better off just leaving it dry so dirt doesn't stick to it for further scratching? I was always under the assumption you should keep that whole area lubricated. Thanks,


Dale
 
#2 ·
Most factory manuals say to use gun oil there. Grease must be wiped off after each range session else it accumulates unburned powder, dust, carbon, metallic leftovers, etc. and becomes an abrasive compound. Just clean your shotgun and lube it with a substance similar to Engine Assembly lube with extreme pressure anti-scuffing properties. There are greases specifically sold as gun grease but you can do very well with the product linked above. You don't need a bucketfull every lube, just enough to make it slick.

Clean your shotgun regularly.

Don T
 
#4 ·
You should grease all sliding parts. On a break-open shotgun, these would include the pivot points, locking bite, sides of the monoblock, forend iron/ receiver surfaces and the forend lug under the barrel. It's worked for me for many years. And, yes, you do need to wipe off old lubrication and apply fresh to avoid creating grinding paste. Do this each time you clean the shotgun, or if you think dust, or dirt may have blown or dropped into the action. -Ed
 
H
#9 ·
I repeat Mr Perazzi's response whenever asked ,,,,What is the best brand of lubricant for our break open shotguns? His response, 'The best brand is OIL' As to anyone's response that oil permeates the wood, it cannot and will not if the wood is sealed properly. Once a year, remove stock and forend and seal completely with a couple of thin coats of truoil. I am referring to the end grain where the wood meets the metal of the receiver and ends of the interior of the forearm wood. Whole interior of the forend should be kept completely sealed the same way to aid in prevention of cracking caused by swelling due to moisture penetration.......BUD
 
O
#11 ·
Pretty much the same as in the pictures that grntitan provided plus a little grease also in the holes in the rear of the monobloc that the locking bolts go into plus a drop of oil on each little spring loaded rod that operates the ejectors under the open ejector. Haven't been oiling the cocking rods tho'?, sounds like a good thing to do I'll have to start.

Wipe clean and relube at the start of each shooting session normally. I might add........a little light oil on the sides of the monobloc also helps lubricate the ejectors.
 
#12 ·
I bought some Super Lube Grease and Super Lube Oil. I know the grease works fine, will try the oil. I've seen this around for years and I know I've seen it in Lexington, KY before but for the life of me I could not find it on the shelf. Finally had to order it at Home Depot. Seems to me that some of our Gun Lubricants are a little high. I used to like TriFlow , however, the new Triflow is super thin and I personally don't trust it . The old Triflow was more viscous but alas, it is gone.

Charlie
 
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#14 ·
Charlie, they both do the same thing except the light grease stays put, even on a really hot day. The oil is great for ejectors and places you can't get grease into. Make sure to shake up the oil before each use. The PTFE is suspended in the synthetic oil. You can buy the grease in small 4oz tubes and caulking gun sized tubes at Ace hardware stores. The stuff in the caulk tube is 50% PTFE.
 
F
#18 ·
In the end it's probably 6 in 1 vs. ½ a dozen in the other, but I generally use oil for fast moving and grease for slow moving parts. Keeping my O/Us clean + small dab of RIG where there is metal to metal contact is cheap and hasn't let me down yet.

P.S. I also like the fact grease stays put and does not migrate unless you over apply. If you are sloppy with oil you can end up ruining your stock and/or fore end.
 
C
#20 · (Edited)
I am surely not an expert, but in the past 35 years I have tried most of what is available with good results, except......I have been dove shooting in Argentina a number of times with my Mirage SC, shooting 20 gauge barrels. I cannot imagine harder work for a sporting shotgun. Every grease I tried, STOS, various oils, Lubriplate, etc., would be gone after a morning of shooting. A friend gave me a tube of Mobil One Grease, (red). It will not dry out. 1000, 2000 rounds a day in 90+ weather and it is still providing lubrication.

I put a light coats on the sides of the mono bloc, on the barrel recesses for the trunions, both front and back of the fore end loop, the fore end knuckle, the bottom surface of the lock up bites and the external threads of choke tubes. After shooting the gun, wipe it off, next day relub with Mobil One Grease. You won't be sorry.

For the trigger group I use "Lite" oil supplied by Wilson Combat that is the same color as Mobil One Oil.
 
R
#26 ·
Thick skin...gotta have some thick skin.
Not too much real innovation going on with shotguns, so many of these types of questions get asked repeatedly. As a result some tend to get a bit snippy with responses.
Use the search feature and you will find a number of responses by people who claim to use a number of non gun lubes to maintain their guns.
From my perspective, use what is recommended by the manufacturer and you probably won't have much to worry about from improper lubrication
 
#29 · (Edited)
I use Mobil One Synthetic motor oil. Use to use gun grease and after seeing how much grit it collects I started using oil because it works well and cleans easily. While gun manufacturers give good advice, my own success with oil has me ignoring the grease advice since it appears some manufacturers have different recommendations. My new CG Summit requires/recommends light oil be used at lubrication points.
 
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