Wich one to use? Nice and eazy.You ever try Blue Wonder Gun Bluing?
Salutations
Pierre
Salutations
Pierre
Gun blue at Home ???
Caribou woodland
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Wich one to use? Nice and eazy.You ever try Blue Wonder Gun Bluing?
Salutations
Pierre
Salutations
Pierre
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I appreciate your comments
Pierre
Pierre
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How brave are you? Years ago I blued guns with a solution of water, Ammonium nitrate and lye. after more than a few years and the finish is still a pretty dark lustrous blue. Be aware of the dangers of using this type of hot bath and am equipped to safely handle the parts and chemicals with gloves and eye protection. Heres the formula utilizing Ammonium nitrate that you can get at a fertilizer store...if you want top results take your time prepping and during the process..you should do it outdoors in an area protected from wind so you have no fume or fire hazard..I do it on a old Coleman camp stove
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------Basic Formula
5 pounds lye
2 1/2 pounds ammonium nitrate
per gallon of water
Heat mixture until working temperature 285-295 degrees, soak 15-40 minutes depending on the hardness of the steel.
after removing parts from solution remove and dip into pot of very hot water to rinse...then let dry from evaporation..then a lil pan of cheap motor oil
Well prepared (polished and cleaned) parts will come out with a durable black finish that can take a wire brush test without damage.
IMPORTANT!: Have lots of ventilation when adding the ammonium nitrate as there are a lot of ammonia fumes.
NOTE: This Will eat solder or lead so know what you the parts you are planning to blue are made of.
If you attempt this YOU DO THIS at YOUR own risk!!! I had no trouble but theres lots of info how to do this in many places...read as much as possible before attempting until you are confident with being able to perform the process
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------Basic Formula
5 pounds lye
2 1/2 pounds ammonium nitrate
per gallon of water
Heat mixture until working temperature 285-295 degrees, soak 15-40 minutes depending on the hardness of the steel.
after removing parts from solution remove and dip into pot of very hot water to rinse...then let dry from evaporation..then a lil pan of cheap motor oil
Well prepared (polished and cleaned) parts will come out with a durable black finish that can take a wire brush test without damage.
IMPORTANT!: Have lots of ventilation when adding the ammonium nitrate as there are a lot of ammonia fumes.
NOTE: This Will eat solder or lead so know what you the parts you are planning to blue are made of.
If you attempt this YOU DO THIS at YOUR own risk!!! I had no trouble but theres lots of info how to do this in many places...read as much as possible before attempting until you are confident with being able to perform the process
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Hi Pierre,
I bought an old Model 12 that was in need of some TLC and i got a bottle of OXPHO-BLUE from Brownells and it worked well.
Again, surface prep is critical. Plenty of videos on YouTube. Also on Brownells website.
Good luck!
I bought an old Model 12 that was in need of some TLC and i got a bottle of OXPHO-BLUE from Brownells and it worked well.
Again, surface prep is critical. Plenty of videos on YouTube. Also on Brownells website.
Good luck!
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After over 30 years of professional gunsmithing and in shop bluing with several thousand dollars invested in the necessary professional equipment, I have tried just about every type of home bluing solutions available to the home user and can say without doubt that none of them do anything close to a professional hot tank bluing job, even when the metal was prepped as I would do on a hot tank bluing job. The color and finished job is uneven and splotchy at best, and several brands of the stuff actually caused more rust after the job was done. These small bottles and tubes of cold bluing are not the same chemicals used in the hot tank process and are designed for very minor touch up of the little nicks and dings on the ribs and wear spots from holsters, etc.
The amount of equipment necessary to prep the metal properly such as buffers, wheels, a variety of polishing compounds, and especially the skill necessary to properly polish the metal isn't something the amateur gunsmith can usually do at home.
Any gun worth restoring is worth restoring properly so let the professional do the job for you. It will result in a far better job done, and a lot less wasted time and energy on your part.
The amount of equipment necessary to prep the metal properly such as buffers, wheels, a variety of polishing compounds, and especially the skill necessary to properly polish the metal isn't something the amateur gunsmith can usually do at home.
Any gun worth restoring is worth restoring properly so let the professional do the job for you. It will result in a far better job done, and a lot less wasted time and energy on your part.
Pretty much what Rich said - cold blues are for touch-up. Don't try to make them do more.
Rust bluing can be done at home, but it is time consuming for the small-job hobbiest. Don't jump in with both feet. Practice on some small or insignificant parts because as simple as the process is, it can be screwed up royaly.
And careful surface preparation is the biggest part of it.
Rust bluing can be done at home, but it is time consuming for the small-job hobbiest. Don't jump in with both feet. Practice on some small or insignificant parts because as simple as the process is, it can be screwed up royaly.
And careful surface preparation is the biggest part of it.
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Ammonium nitrate and a visit from the feds?
Do a search for "Black Oxide" close to you. A lot of companys do industrial oxide and do a side service blackening guns. But it is black not blue, Which on a good polished barrel looks better to me than blue. Cost is relative. Cold blue products usually make a big mess of a small job.
CM
Do a search for "Black Oxide" close to you. A lot of companys do industrial oxide and do a side service blackening guns. But it is black not blue, Which on a good polished barrel looks better to me than blue. Cost is relative. Cold blue products usually make a big mess of a small job.
CM
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2,320 Posts
that is of course the high end for a reblue,should be more like 250. if you look around some more,but you do have piece of mind with ottisville.
I have used herters belgian blue to spot blue bare areas acceptably,but you need boiling water ,receptacle,colemann stove,care,and patience.
I have used herters belgian blue to spot blue bare areas acceptably,but you need boiling water ,receptacle,colemann stove,care,and patience.
Cold blue can look good...... until you start handling the gun. It will rub off. I have tried lots of them. Oxpho-blue is good, but still, it won't hold up to use. I have found that if the part is not bead blasted it doesn't work well at all. Then heat the part in an oven and apply the blue till it cools. rub it down with oil. Will still rub off. How can anyone believe cold blue will hold up where hot blue rubbed off?
Steve Fischer is completely right. Some will make a rusty mess if you don't keep it cleaned up with oil for a week. 44/40 is the worst for this that I have used.
Steve Fischer is completely right. Some will make a rusty mess if you don't keep it cleaned up with oil for a week. 44/40 is the worst for this that I have used.
Glenrock is probably abt the best there is, and their prices are stunningly reasonable.
What Steve said:
I have restored/reconditioned a lot of old guns: rust bluing and browning. You can do it, buuuut ... it takes cleanliness, space, equipment, time, cleanliness, chemicals, distilled water, cleanliness, time, cleanliness.
Johnny, 44/40 is the very best quick & dirty browner (I've never gone to blue with it) I have ever used. If you rinse it with dilute soda, it helps, but the very best final coating and rust-kill is beeswax.
Bob
What Steve said:
I have restored/reconditioned a lot of old guns: rust bluing and browning. You can do it, buuuut ... it takes cleanliness, space, equipment, time, cleanliness, chemicals, distilled water, cleanliness, time, cleanliness.
Johnny, 44/40 is the very best quick & dirty browner (I've never gone to blue with it) I have ever used. If you rinse it with dilute soda, it helps, but the very best final coating and rust-kill is beeswax.
Bob
Google slow rust bluing. It's an easy technique that anyone can do at home. Only have to get the parts polished down to 220 grit. If you have enough moxie to reload shells and not blow you face off, you have the skills to slow rust blue. Everything needed can be had for under $100.
Johnny,
1. Degrease surface to be blued, use rubbing alcohol as cleaning solvent.
2. Remove any oxidation on surface to be blued. Use 0000 steel wool to get the surface oxidation free.
3. Keep the surface to be blued and the liquid blue warm while applying.
4. Apply the instant blue using a clean 0000 steel wool pad.
5. Apply as many coats as needed to get desired depth of color.
6. Apply the last coat of bluing using the soft side of a 30 cal. military cleaning patch.
7. Last step, wash area with soapy water to neutralize bluing, dry area, and apply oil to protect surface. HMB
1. Degrease surface to be blued, use rubbing alcohol as cleaning solvent.
2. Remove any oxidation on surface to be blued. Use 0000 steel wool to get the surface oxidation free.
3. Keep the surface to be blued and the liquid blue warm while applying.
4. Apply the instant blue using a clean 0000 steel wool pad.
5. Apply as many coats as needed to get desired depth of color.
6. Apply the last coat of bluing using the soft side of a 30 cal. military cleaning patch.
7. Last step, wash area with soapy water to neutralize bluing, dry area, and apply oil to protect surface. HMB
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