I have a Wenig Beretta 391 stock that I stained with tru-oil. I want to take the dents and scratches out of it. What is the best way to remove Tru-oil?
What is the best way to remove tru-oil?
kybullseye
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I have a Wenig Beretta 391 stock that I stained with tru-oil. I want to take the dents and scratches out of it. What is the best way to remove Tru-oil?
If you used Tru-Oil for your finish, without adding any stain to the wood prior, you should be able to sand the dings and light scratches, then go right back to applying Tru-Oil.
I wouldn't go with anything coarser than 320 grit and use a block behind the paper. You'll need quite a few sheets handy as the paper will load up quickly.
I have used 400 grit wet with clean water to wet sand also. The paper will stay cleaner. Just be sure to let the wood dry thoroughly before apllying the oil.
Doug
I wouldn't go with anything coarser than 320 grit and use a block behind the paper. You'll need quite a few sheets handy as the paper will load up quickly.
I have used 400 grit wet with clean water to wet sand also. The paper will stay cleaner. Just be sure to let the wood dry thoroughly before apllying the oil.
Doug
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steam machine,removes small dents too.mark
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Subject: What is the best way to remove tru-oil?
From: kolar69
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Date: Sun, Jan 16, 2011 - 10:04 PM ET
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Don't use the damn stuff to begin with...........
Why not? I used it on my Blaser. The other day, shooting skeet, a piece of a bird nicked my stock. I went home, sanded a little, buffed a little and applied a couple coats of Tru-Oil over the area and it blended perfectly.
To be fair; What would you use for a durable finish?
From: kolar69
Email:
Date: Sun, Jan 16, 2011 - 10:04 PM ET
Website Address:
Don't use the damn stuff to begin with...........
Why not? I used it on my Blaser. The other day, shooting skeet, a piece of a bird nicked my stock. I went home, sanded a little, buffed a little and applied a couple coats of Tru-Oil over the area and it blended perfectly.
To be fair; What would you use for a durable finish?
TruOil is one of the easiest finishes to remove. One application of ZipStrip or any other finish remover will usually do the trick. I suspect one or all of the other suggestions would work as well.
TruOil is a soft varnish-type finish, meaning it is not very durable and scratches very easily, especially if it has been applied as a "built up" finish (on the wood rather than in the wood). That also means that is easily repaired with just a dab of it rubbed into the scratch.
The best type of finish, I've found, is a finish that is applied with a "rub in and then rub off" method. In other words, you apply it liberally, allow it to penetrate, then wipe off the excess and let it cure before the next application. About 5 or six applications with this method will give a good "in the wood" finish with a nice warm glow rather than a gaudy shiny finish.
Permalyn sealer (Laurel Mountain Forge) works great, and is available from Brownells. I just use the Permalyn sealer, not the Permalyn finish. The sealer penetrates better and faster.
TruOil is a soft varnish-type finish, meaning it is not very durable and scratches very easily, especially if it has been applied as a "built up" finish (on the wood rather than in the wood). That also means that is easily repaired with just a dab of it rubbed into the scratch.
The best type of finish, I've found, is a finish that is applied with a "rub in and then rub off" method. In other words, you apply it liberally, allow it to penetrate, then wipe off the excess and let it cure before the next application. About 5 or six applications with this method will give a good "in the wood" finish with a nice warm glow rather than a gaudy shiny finish.
Permalyn sealer (Laurel Mountain Forge) works great, and is available from Brownells. I just use the Permalyn sealer, not the Permalyn finish. The sealer penetrates better and faster.
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