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WTB -- thinwall choke thread reamer & tap

Discussion in 'Want to Buy/Trade Threads' started by bluskyshooter, Apr 6, 2011.

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  1. bluskyshooter

    bluskyshooter Active Member

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    Thought I would take a flyer ... and see if anyone has this tooling they are willing to sell or loan ?? My local gunsmith would not thread the lower barrel of my Citori because he said it would be too thin. The published min OD for thinwall chokes is 0.805" - my barrel measures 0.8025" at the muzzle and 0.807" two inches in from the muzzle. The ID bore size is acceptable and the concentricity is off by just 0.001". Given these dimensions, I feel the risk is minimal and would like to proceed with installing Tru-choke thin-wall threads. I dont think any gunsmith will do it though (liability) ... so I would have to do myself. After researching the machining steps - it doesnt seem all that difficult. Thanks, Brian
     
  2. MACH4RANDY

    MACH4RANDY Member

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    Check Briley
     
  3. claybrdr

    claybrdr Well-Known Member

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    I'd suggest you contact Stu at Wright's.
     
  4. Jim101

    Jim101 Active Member

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    Ck brownells they have choke tooling for most systems.


    Jim
     
  5. rennerize

    rennerize Active Member

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    Just make sure that the barrels of the Citori are not ground down very close at the very ends.
    Don
     
  6. Steve Fischer

    Steve Fischer Member

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    With all due respect to you sir, threading a barrel for screw in chokes is not really a project for an amateur gunsmith. Just a slight tipping of the reamer will create a major problem for the point of impact. I would strongly suggest you send your barrel to Briley for the needed choke work. They are reasonably priced and have the proper equipment to do the job perfectly. Why risk ruining a barrel just to save a couple of bucks? I have personally seen hand threaded barrels produce patterns as much as 2 feet off center. IMHO, it's just not worth the possible results.

    Steve
     
  7. claybrdr

    claybrdr Well-Known Member

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    I was thinking the same thing.

    Even with all Briley's equipment, they screw up occasionally.
     
  8. EuroJoe

    EuroJoe TS Supporters TS Supporters

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    You must be out of your mind!!
     
  9. burtona

    burtona Member

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    You can rent the tooling to do this. www.4-dproducts.com is one place I rent tooling from when I don't have it. They can also help with how to use their tools and what you need to do the job. If you don't feel competent to do it yourself rent the tooling and take it to a local machine shop for them to do for you. Setting the barrel up in a 4 jaw chuck and reaming with the tailstock on a lathe is a much safer method than doing it by hand providing the shop has a lathe of suitable size. It's not that difficult of a job for someone with some basic machining skills.
     
  10. bluskyshooter

    bluskyshooter Active Member

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    Burton,
    Thanks. I actually found that website (4-dproducts) just after I posted this. Their rental fee seems fairly reasonable. Agree with lathe installation - just curious how you secure the double barrel in jaws without scratching. Also, suppose I will have to make up a bore axis indicator .. that can stick out end of barrel ... for indicating runout purposes - yes ?
    thanks, Brian
     
  11. Smithy47

    Smithy47 Member

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    You really need to listen to the advice given above.
    You do not want to attempt to do this yourself. I have installed choke tubes. It is not a job for beginners.

    You will not be able to chuck up an over and under barrel in a lathe unless you have a really big hole in the headstock (A very large lathe ----).

    Using a lathe, the barrels will have to be either set up in a milling attachment with the cutters held in the chuck. Or held off the side of the table on a verticle mill/drilling machine.
    It will have to be indicated-in with perfect alignment with the cutter. The choke will have to be removed first, then reamed and then tapped.
    It is not an easy job and a lot can go wrong.
    Send it to Briley. they use square threads instead of the very fine sharp "v" threads of the thin wall true chokes or Colonial chokes.
    Enough said?
    Bob
     
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