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Wood stock maintenance w/ boiled linseed

Discussion in 'Shooting Related Threads' started by Doughboy, Oct 9, 2012.

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  1. Doughboy

    Doughboy Member

    Mar 18, 2011
    Need some advice on stock maintenance using linseed oil. How long to dry before using gun and does anyone use heaters to aide in the drying time? I currently have/use my gun but it does need some touch up. I know for a fact stock was finished with BLO from mfg.

    Thank you
  2. highway

    highway Member

    Mar 4, 2011
    I would like to know the same thing, and will expand on the question. What the heck does an oil finish mean? Are we talking about a mixture of substances like the movie "The Red Violin", (blood and oil) or just some simple thing like linseed oil. Obviously, the poly finishes are way different. --Would just like to know.
  3. 4painter

    4painter Member

    Sep 29, 2012
    oils and linseed oil you are speaking of are usually blended with harder finishes and are called somthing like tru oil. They work, takes a day to dry between coatsto dry, light sand 400 grit, over the course of days to achieve the desired results, satin or gloss { more coats}. And can produce a beatiful finish, and easy to touch up if scratched, just light sand and reapply a thin coat. How ever , the spray polys or pre cad laquors are preferred, even with a spray can you can get professional results, phill sims stock maker in co. has the best fisish on stocks ive ever seen, using a spray only finish and many coats. lots of ways to fix or finish your stock, ive been working in these finishes 25 years and many good ones, let me know if i can be of help.
  4. Johnny

    Johnny Well-Known Member

    Jan 29, 1998
    Linseed oil takes forever to dry and harden. It offers little protection from the elements. BLO is what was used when that was the only thing available.
  5. Unknown1

    Unknown1 Well-Known Member

    Nov 5, 2009
    The stuff you buy now as "boiled" linseed oil is usually just raw linseed oil with some driers and stabilizers added. It never fully cures in the wood. Adding Japan drier to it will speed up the surface drying but most people who use it now as furniture finish intend to overcoat it with shellac or wax because it will never fully polymerize to a wearable surface by itself.

    Back when it was a popular furniture finish, the technique was to apply it once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year and then once a year for life. It took the best part of half a year of this to get a finish that looked half-way decent.

    Also keep in mind that the rags (or whatever) used to apply boiled linseed to wood can very easily spontaneously combust and wreck your whole week if you've just thrown them in the trash can. They should be burned or buried or sealed in an air tight jar or can and the whole container disposed of.

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