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Wish me luck - Perazzi relay!

Discussion in 'Shooting Related Threads' started by tinylo, Jan 19, 2012.

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  1. tinylo

    tinylo TS Member

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    Well, I've gotten sick of dealing with the lousy, porous solder job done by a certain top rated 'smith on this Perazzi. I've patched it up before, but after shooting doubles at 10 degrees last night, the rib sprung again and I'm going to fix it properly.

    I've never done a whole rib relay, but I've done partial fix-ups, miscellaneous solder jobs-sights, thimbles, etc., and have had great success on slow rust bluing jobs. If I fail, I won't be hurting anything and can still dump it off with a pro to do it.

    Here's where I am now, solder removed and I'm deciding on whether to strip all the blue before soldering or after. Hopefully I'll post successful "after" photos, or quietly slink off to a barrel specialist...

    [​IMG]
     
  2. GR Eubanks

    GR Eubanks Active Member

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    Leave the blue your solder will not stick to the blued surface, and will be a whole lot easier to clean up.

    Roger
     
  3. cubancigar2000

    cubancigar2000 Well-Known Member

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    better listen to Roger, he is the best rib guy in the country
     
  4. GunDr

    GunDr Well-Known Member

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    Its also easier to polish the barrels when the ribs are off.
     
  5. 682b

    682b Member

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    That is a lot of good advise from some experts Good luck. You might want to look at this series of video's on repairing a rib, This is Art Isacson (Arts gun and sport shop) a old time smith with a nice shop he has a few video on browning salt guns I found interesting. Jim http://www.artsgunshop.com/Video/RibResolder/videoPlayer.htm
     
  6. tinylo

    tinylo TS Member

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    Yes, that's one of the videos I've been studying. So far, so good. I have tinned the inside of the ribs, and also tinned the contact areas of the barrels. The big soldering iron I picked up years ago is a huge help. It is slow, but highly controllable compared to a torch, great for a beginner.

    I'm at this stage; with ribs tinned, along with the attachmemnt area and what will become the interior.

    [​IMG]


    ribs:

    [​IMG]


    barrels:

    [​IMG]

    Next I'll flux (this time with rosin paste), wire everything up, ensure alignment, and hit it with the torch.

    So far so good. Thanks for the comments.
     
  7. Avaldes

    Avaldes Well-Known Member

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    Are the mid ribs completely off the gun? Or is this just a section we are looking at? Can you show the entire barrel? I am very impressed with your soldering results! Can you reveal what solder and flux you used so far? Along with how many watts on your iron?
     
  8. tinylo

    tinylo TS Member

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    Thanks, I am calling them "sideribs" - is "mid-ribs" the correct term? Yes, they are completely off the barrels. The top vent rib and forend lug are secure so I am leaving them alone, I'll just wire them down when I finally lay the ribs so they don't pop.

    This is the best photo I have which shows most of the barrels:

    [​IMG]


    I'm using a 175 Watt Weller soldering iron, Comet acid flux and Hi-Force 44 solder which is tin with about 4% silver. I would contemplate doing the whole thing with the iron only, but it really bogs down at the breech end because of the mass involved. I think I'd end up with a cold joint there if I went with the iron only which is why I'll be using the torch.
     
  9. Avaldes

    Avaldes Well-Known Member

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    Side rib is the correct term. I meant, is the mid section off only? Or is the muzzle end still connected?
     
  10. tinylo

    tinylo TS Member

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    on this set, the side ribs run the length of the barrels, block to muzzle. The whole thing is off.
     
  11. billyboy07208

    billyboy07208 Member

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    Avaldes meant the line solder between the barrels at the muzzle.Your barrels are still joined underneath those ribs no?
     
  12. GunDr

    GunDr Well-Known Member

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    Using the flame for the soldering would be your better bet. Applying heat to only one side at a time will cause the barrels to bow. Once bowed and one rib attached, the soldered rib will prevent the barrel from cooling back straight.

    Using a large soft flame, or even a pipe burner, will allow the whole package to grow together and cool together.

    The forend lug should be silver soldered (brazed) onto the barrel. No need to worry about it coming loose unless your heat gets over 1200 degrees.

    Doug
     
  13. Avaldes

    Avaldes Well-Known Member

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    Billyboy nailed it. The barrels are still cennected at the chamber and the muzzle end right? If not do you have a jig to keep them straight?
     
  14. tinylo

    tinylo TS Member

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    The solder joint at the muzzle came apart during the rib removal.

    For reassembly, I clamped the muzzle in a homemade jig and eliminated any twist using this method:

    [​IMG]


    I have resoldered the muzzle in preparation for the final soldering, and everything looks good. I will triple check for any twist before proceeding any further.

    I also checked that the top rib is not bowed, using a straightedge. It is straight as an arrow.

    I'm taking a break for a few days before I do the final relay, to calm down as this is making me very nervous even though it's going well!

    One question I have is, there were no shims or spacers between the barrels. I'm used to seeing these in other guns. Is this normal for a Perazzi? Would it be worth it to add one (or two)? Could this be a contributor to the solder joint failure in the first place?

    Thanks for your comments and advice. I really appreciate it.

    Joe
     
  15. GunDr

    GunDr Well-Known Member

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    Without any barrel "wedges" wouldn't it be a little difficult tp prevent the barrels from moving as the side ribs are being attached. You will be applying some pressure to them.

    I would make at least 4 wedges, solder them in place, then go out and pattern the gun. If that goes well, then the laying of the ribs and wiring up can take place without changing the POI.

    Doug
     
  16. tinylo

    tinylo TS Member

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    Well, I leveled the barrels as seen here, put in some "wedges" and took the gun out to the range. It gave nice, centered patterns at 35 yards from both barrels. I even shot about 15 clays with it and hit them just like before.


    [​IMG]


    So, I decided to solder it up tonight. I was so nervous that I didn't feel like adding a camera into the mix to document everything, but I used the standard iron wire and wedges. I used rosin paste flux and a soldering brush which was helpful. After cooling, I had to go back and re-solder the muzzle with some focused heat and pressure to get this ribs down better there.

    This is where I am now. I sprayed carb cleaner in the rib vent hole on both sides and shot some air in there, and I saw no bubbles, so the job seems solid.

    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]


    I/ve done a little scraping, but that will be completed over the next few days.

    Thanks for the suggestions. The one about adding wedges and shooting it was great. I think the whole problem with the barrels in the first place was that there were no wedges in it and that was overstressing the rib solder joint, which was only lightly soldered in the first place. I also think somebody hot/salt blued the barrels, which further attacked the solder, as they always looked a little too shiney to be a rust blue. I will of course, rust blue these.
     
  17. billyboy07208

    billyboy07208 Member

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    You are daring.Bravo!
     
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