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Trigger work on a Cynergy

Discussion in 'Shooting Related Threads' started by benniesdad, Sep 14, 2011.

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  1. benniesdad

    benniesdad TS Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 1998
    Messages:
    161
    Does anyone have personal experience with having a trigger job done on a Cynergy? How did it turn out? Who did the work for you?
     
  2. Shooting Coach

    Shooting Coach Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 14, 2006
    Messages:
    8,358
    Location:
    Nashville Tn
    Drop the stock, lube the gun, and shoot it. It is not a rifle, and does not have a rifle trigger.

    Think about the target, not the trigger.
     
  3. Shooting Sailor

    Shooting Sailor Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    May 13, 2008
    Messages:
    1,084
    What kind of trigger job? Do you want it lightened? A release installed? More information please.
     
  4. g7777777

    g7777777 TS Supporters TS Supporters

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 1998
    Messages:
    9,353
    I have a gunsmith in Dallas Center Iowa- that makes Cynergy triggers close to Krieghoff triggers (pull)

    Regards from Iowa

    Gene
     
  5. Tron

    Tron Supporting Vendor Supporting Vendor

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 1998
    Messages:
    6,675
    A consistant trigger is vital in Trap.
     
  6. Hap MecTweaks

    Hap MecTweaks Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 1998
    Messages:
    9,229
    Location:
    Mesquite, Nevada
    This was posted by a guy knowledgable in tweaking those shotgun triggers and I saved his post, pasted below.

    Subject: How to Reduce Browning Cynergy Trigger Pull
    From: AEP
    Email: Aepozzi@comcast.net
    Date: Sun, May 24, 2009 - 11:35 PM ET
    Website Address:
    Reducing Trigger Pull on Browning Cnyergy
    If you do the following procedure you will do it at your own risk. You may void your warranty. Browning Arms does not want you doing this. If you are not comfortable performing this kind of work, or don’’t understand these instructions Do not Proceed.
    You will need some tools. The tools needed are a dial caliper, small assortment of brass drifts, smooth face 6-8”” file, and a 4 or 6 oz ball peen hammer. All measurements are in inches.
    Adjusting the trigger pull on a Browning Cynergy is not difficult if you take your time and follow these instructions. The Cynergy, that I purchased, came with a trigger pull of 4.75 lbs and lots of ““trigger creep””. For me that is way too heavy. I prefer a 3 lb pull.
    Don’t bother calling Browning for help. They won’’t tell you anything. I called 10 gun shops around the country, some were Browning authorized repair facilities, and no one seemed to know or wouldn’’t tell me how to reduce trigger pull.
    Prior to starting check the current trigger pull. Check each trigger at least 3 times. Write down your findings. Both triggers should be the same. If not no problem you will be able to adjust later. To start with remove the recoil pad and butt stock. As of this writing, there seems to be 3 configurations of recoil pads. My recoil pad had the traditional #2 phillips head screws top and bottom. Prior to inserting the screwdriver put a little 3 in one oil on the tip and shank of the screwdriver. This will prevent tearing the recoil pad. Once the pad is removed remove the butt stock. My Cynergy came with a long allen wrench to remove the socket head screw located in the butt. Make sure the break open tang is in the closed position. This will save your stock upon removal of the butt stock.
    Once the butt stock is removed take a good look at the internal mechanism. You will notice it is different than most trigger mechanisms. Pay close attention to where and how the sear engages the firing spring. This will be the spring with the castle nuts and a cotter pin. First you want to start by removing the sears. The sears are held in place by a pin with an e-clip on the right side of the receiver. The pin goes through both sears. On the opposite side of the e-clip is a head to hold the pin in place. Remove the e-clip. Be careful. This little clip will shoot across the room when removing it. Try and hold your hand over the side the clip is coming off to prevent loosing it.
    Once the clip is removed use a brass punch and drive the pin out. The pin is knurled under the head side to keep it from moving. This will require a little force to drive the pin out. A 4 ounce hammer should work fine. The sears rest against the firing pin, which are spring loaded. When you drive the pin out the brass driver will hold the sears in place. Once the pin is removed the sears will be resting on the brass driving punch. Slowly remove the brass driver. Now the sears are free to come out with a little jiggle. I will remove the one on the left side first. Mark-it and then remove the other sear and mark it so you know which side they came out of.
    Once the sears are out now is a good time to start working on them. Start with the first one you removed. If you have excessive trigger creep, as mine did, now is the time to improve it . Using a dial caliper take a measurement from the back side of the sear, on the flat, to the tip of the sear. It should measure .035 +/-. Mine was .044. using a ““smooth”” file remove the excess from the sear. Keep the sear face square to the file. Only make 2 passes and then re-check the thickness and squareness to the file.
    If you get a little off here it can be corrected. Make sure where you filed is even across the face of the sear. If not adjust your file cut to square it up. With 2 passes on the file you should have removed about .001-.002 depending on the condition of your file and amount of pressure you applied. Always keep your file clean of chips. If you removed .002 on your first 2 file cuts and everything is pretty square continue filing.
    You may want to make 4 passes then re-check measurements. Keep filing until you reach a thickness of .026. When you reach .026 stop filing and start honing with a stone. I uses a course stone to bring sear down to .025. When I have reached .025 I then hone with a medium stone. (medium stone being 220 grit). I medium stone until I reach .024. That is where I stop. I could have gone a little further maybe down to .020.
    Next I medium stone the part of the sear that rests against the ball end of the firing pin. Holding the sear square to the medium stone hone until the face is slick and shinny. I’’m not sure this part is necessary , but it can’’t hurt. The 1st sear is now finished. Repeat this process on the other sear. Remember take your time. Don’’t get in a hurry. If in doubt re assemble and test fire or at least dry fire with a snap-cap. If you reassemble and test with a trigger pull gauge you will notice your trigger pull has been reduced by approximately ½ lb. To Reduce the Pull of the Trigger
    Remove the pin that holds the firing pins. This pin is located below in about the middle of the receiver, just forward of the upper part of the trigger sears. The one pin holds both sears. Again you want to drive the pin out with a brass drift. The firing pins are spring loaded. As you drive the pin out apply pressure on the ball end, of the firing pin. The ball rests against the sears. This will keep the firing pin from shooting across the room and keep the holding pin from galling the firing pin while removing. Take note on how the firing pins are installed. The firing pins have a relief cut in where the pin goes through. This relief holds the firing pins in place. Once the pin is out the firing pins should slide right out. With the firing pins out you may need to place the receiver in an up right position to remove the firing pin springs. Measure the springs with a dial caliper for length. You will not get an accurate measurement but close enough. Close the calipers until they just touch the springs. Try not to compress the spring, however, you will compress the spring a little maybe .001 - .005. I doubt this slight compression will make a difference in trigger pull.
    I cut my springs off to a length of .840. This gave me a 3 lb trigger pull. Over time this will lighten up a bit. Maybe to a point that I will need to replace the springs to maintain a 3 lb trigger pull. I would suggest cutting the springs to .940 length. Then completely reassemble and test.
    I cut both springs to the same length. By making your first cut on the springs at .940 +/- and reassembling you will be able to tell is one spring needs to be cut a little shorter to match the other spring. Some prefer a harder trigger pull on the second shot. It’’s up to you and your preference. My guess is a .940 spring length will equal to a 3 ½ lb trigger pull.
    If you cut the springs a little short, a quick fix would be to shim with small washers, or turn some shims down on a lathe to thickness to obtain the desired trigger pull.
    When reinstalling the firing pins make sure to pay attention to the slot in the firing pin that the holding pin goes through. You will need to compress the firing pins to allow the holding pin to drive back in. Failure to do this will result in damage to the firing pins.
    As stated above my Cynergy is now set to a 3 lb trigger pull. I left the slightest amount of trigger creep for safety and wear reasons.
    On May 24, 2009 I tested the trigger modifications. I am happy to report all is fine. The lighter trigger pull feels a lot better to me.
    Good Shooting Andy
     
  7. benniesdad

    benniesdad TS Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 1998
    Messages:
    161
    Thanks for some good info. I am considering purchasing a Cynergy from an online source so at this point I don't know what I don't know about that particular gun. I have read from posters including pretty reliable folks like Randy Wakeman that were not really happy with triggers on their Cynergy's mainly due to heavy trigger pulls and creep, exactly as was noted in Hap's posting. Searching the Internet, I have yet to find anyone who claims to be the Pat Laib or Rich Cole for the Cynergy. That is why I posted this thread.
     
  8. Sky Buster

    Sky Buster Sky Buster TS Supporters

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 1998
    Messages:
    2,981
    Location:
    Minnesota
    Stay away from the Cynergy. Not only are the triggers sub-standard,
    the resale also sucks.
     
  9. Vince McNamara

    Vince McNamara Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 1998
    Messages:
    522
    Follow the advice posted by Hap Mec Tweaks. I followed Andrew Pozzi's instructions and did the triggers on my 20 ga cynergy. It is a very simple procedure and doesn't take much time. Pasted are the instructions he sent me (basically the same as posted by Hap but in a different format:

    Subject: Reducing Browning Cynergy Trigger Pull
    From: AEP
    Email:
    Date: Thu, Oct 22, 2009 - 09:29 PM ET
    Website Address:
    Reducing Trigger Pull on Browning Cnyergy
    I have been getting many emails regarding this artical so I thought I'd re-post it.

    If you do the following procedure you will do it at your own risk. You may void your warranty. Browning Arms does not want you doing this. If you are not comfortable performing this kind of work, or don’’t understand these instructions DO NOT PROCEED. Take it to a gunsmith.

    You will need some tools. The tools needed are a dial caliper, small assortment of brass drifts, smooth face 6-8”” file, Med and fine indiana stone and a 4 or 6 oz ball peen hammer.

    All measurements are in inches.

    Adjusting the trigger pull on a Browning Cynergy is not difficult if you take your time and follow these instructions. The Cynergy, that I purchased, came with a trigger pull of 4.75 lbs and lots of ““trigger creep””. For me that is way too heavy. I prefer a 3 lb pull.

    Don’t bother calling Browning for help. They won’’t tell you anything. I called 10 gun shops around the country, some were Browning authorized repair facilities, and no one seemed to know or wouldn’’t tell me how to reduce trigger pull. One gunsmith said he files the sears down, however the sears don't last long. That is not the way to reduce the trigger pull.

    Prior to starting check the current trigger pull. Check each trigger at least 3 times. Write down your findings. Both triggers should be the same. If not no problem you will be able to adjust later.

    To start with remove the recoil pad and butt stock. As of this writing, there seems to be 3 configurations of recoil pads. My recoil pad had the traditional #2 phillips head screws top and bottom. Prior to inserting the screwdriver put a little 3 in one oil on the tip and shank of the screwdriver. This will prevent tearing the recoil pad. Once the pad is removed remove the butt stock. My Cynergy came with a long allen wrench to remove the socket head screw located in the butt. Make sure the break open tang is in the closed position. This will save your stock upon removal of the butt stock.

    Once the butt stock is removed take a good look at the internal mechanism. You will notice it is different than most trigger mechanisms. Pay close attention to where and how the sear engages the firing spring. This will be the spring with the castle nuts and a cotter pin.

    First you want to start by removing the sears. The sears are held in place by a pin with an e-clip on the right side of the receiver. The pin goes through both sears. On the opposite side of the e-clip is a head to hold the pin in place. Remove the e-clip. Be careful. This little clip will shoot across the room when removing it. Try and hold your hand over the side the clip is coming off to prevent loosing it.

    Once the clip is removed use a brass punch and drive the pin out. The pin is knurled under the head side to keep it from moving. This will require a little force to drive the pin out. A 4 ounce hammer should work fine. The sears rest against the firing pin, which are spring loaded. When you drive the pin out the brass driver will hold the sears in place. Once the pin is removed the sears will be resting on the brass driving punch. Slowly remove the brass driver. Now the sears are free to come out with a little jiggle. I will remove the one on the left side first. Mark-it and then remove the other sear and mark it so you know which side they came out of.

    Once the sears are out now is a good time to start working on them. Start with the first one you removed. If you have excessive trigger creep, as mine did, now is the time to improve it . Using a dial caliper take a measurement from the back side of the sear, on the flat, to the tip of the sear. It should measure .035 +/-. Mine was .044. using a ““smooth”” file remove the excess from the sear. Keep the sear face square to the file. Only make 2 passes and then re-check the thickness and squareness to the file.

    If you get a little off here it can be corrected. Make sure where you filed is even across the face of the sear. If not adjust your file cut to square it up. With 2 passes on the file you should have removed about .001-.002 depending on the condition of your file and amount of pressure you applied. Always keep your file clean of chips. If you removed .002 on your first 2 file cuts and everything is pretty square continue filing.

    You may want to make 4 passes then re-check measurements. Keep filing until you reach a thickness of .026. When you reach .026 stop filing and start honing with a stone. I uses a course stone to bring sear down to .025. When I have reached .025 I then hone with a medium stone. (medium stone being 220 grit). I medium stone until I reach .024. That is where I stop. I could have gone a little further maybe down to .020.

    Next I medium stone the part of the sear that rests against the ball end of the firing pin. Holding the sear square to the medium stone hone until the face is slick and shinny. I’’m not sure this part is necessary , but it can’’t hurt. The 1st sear is now finished. Repeat this process on the other sear. Remember take your time. Don’’t get in a hurry. If in doubt re assemble and test fire or at least dry fire with a snap-cap. If you reassemble and test with a trigger pull gauge you will notice your trigger pull has been reduced by approximately ½ lb.

    To Reduce the Pull of the Trigger, remove the pin that holds the firing pins. This pin is located below in about the middle of the receiver, just forward of the upper part of the trigger sears. The one pin holds both sears. Again you want to drive the pin out with a brass drift. The firing pins are spring loaded. As you drive the pin out apply pressure on the ball end, of the firing pin. The ball rests against the sears. This will keep the firing pin from shooting across the room and keep the holding pin from galling the firing pin while removing. Take note on how the firing pins are installed. The firing pins have a relief cut in where the pin goes through. This relief holds the firing pins in place. Once the pin is out the firing pins should slide right out. With the firing pins out you may need to place the receiver in an up right position to remove the firing pin springs. Measure the springs with a dial caliper for length. You will not get an accurate measurement but close enough. Close the calipers until they just touch the springs. Try not to compress the spring, however, you will compress the spring a little maybe .001 - .005. I doubt this slight compression will make a difference in trigger pull.

    I cut my springs off to a length of .840. This gave me a 3 lb trigger pull. Over time this will lighten up a bit. Maybe to a point that I will need to replace the springs to maintain a 3 lb trigger pull.

    I would suggest cutting the springs to .940 length. Then completely reassemble and test. I cut both springs to the same length. By making your first cut on the springs at .940 +/- and reassembling you will be able to tell is one spring needs to be cut a little shorter to match the other spring. Some prefer a harder trigger pull on the second shot. It’’s up to you and your preference. My guess is a .940 spring length will equal to a 3 ½ lb trigger pull.
    If you cut the springs a little short, a quick fix would be to shim with small washers, or turn some shims down on a lathe to thickness to obtain the desired trigger pull.

    When reinstalling the firing pins make sure to pay attention to the slot in the firing pin that the holding pin goes through. You will need to compress the firing pins to allow the holding pin to drive back in. Failure to do this will result in damage to the firing pins.

    As stated above my Cynergy is now set to a 3 lb trigger pull. I left the slightest amount of trigger creep for safety and wear reasons.
    On May 24, 2009 I tested the trigger modifications. I am happy to report all is fine. The lighter trigger pull feels a lot better to me.

    Update: It has been several months since I have performed this and all is well. No problems. The trigger pull is still at 3 pounds.
     
  10. rrose

    rrose TS Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 1998
    Messages:
    655
    For any one that wants to get rid of their Cynergy please send it to me and I promise to give it a good home. I have had 2 trap combo's and 2 sporters and I have had no problems with any and like them better than the 3 XT's I have had.
    I just have that trap shooters disease that causes me to sell my gun when I start to get good with it and start all over again. I have managed to keep this last composite sporter for over a year and like it a bunch. I do wish I still had the combo's back but I have high hopes of keeping this one for a long long time and maybe adding a combo back in the future. They just fit me
    better and I shoot them better than the other guns I have tried and it is a long long list including an XT with a PFS stock and then a custom made stock as well as many other brands. Try one you may like it. randy
     
  11. Shooting Sailor

    Shooting Sailor Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    May 13, 2008
    Messages:
    1,084
    I have had ZERO problems with my Cynergy trigger. I have had operator problems, but no trigger problems. I have never noticed my triggers pull, nor any creep. I always felt that if you feel your trigger, you aren't concentrating enough on the target. My Cynergy has taken me from a low C, 20 yard, D doubles shooter, to A, 25 1/2, A in a year and a bit, after trying for many years with a Citori to get anywhere.
     
  12. AEP

    AEP Member

    Joined:
    May 6, 2009
    Messages:
    166
    It is my opinion that the Cynergy is a fine gun and gets a bad rap. I one and wrote the article written above. The trigger pul, as it comes from the factory is HEAVY, but then so are the other Browning shotguns. It's the Browning Policy.

    If price is a concern, look for a used one. The bad rap these guns get does lower the resale value, which works to your advantage when looking for a used one.

    Don't be affaid of the Cynergy. Try one before you buy.

    Good Luck,

    Andy
     
  13. Johnny

    Johnny Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 1998
    Messages:
    2,804
    Here are the statements that caught my eye;

    " If you removed .002 on your first 2 file cuts and everything is pretty square continue filing." " Keep the sear face square to the file."

    "pretty square" What a hoot. There is no way a person can file on a sear by hand and keep it square!
    That is the ruination of most triggers and sears. If you don't have jig leave it alone.

    Also keep in mind that if trigger work is done, Browning will disown the gun until they replace the parts. Browning likes heavy triggers and creep, it makes them feel safe.
     
  14. johnpe

    johnpe Member

    Joined:
    Oct 11, 2006
    Messages:
    293
    I've put several thousand rounds through my Cynergy Sporting. During a tournament about two years ago, it began to double. As soon as the shoot was over, I took it to Feland. Got it back a couple of weeks later. Trigger pulls were excellent and it worked great until a couple of weeks ago when it began to double again. It went back to Feland. I like the gun very much and shoot it well, but the trigger does seem to be a weak spot. I'm hoping to get it back in time for a shoot this weekend. It shouldn't be necessary, but if having the triggers worked over every couple of years is what it takes, I'll put up with it and keep on shooting.

    Johnpe
     
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