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To varnish or not over Checkering?

Discussion in 'Shooting Related Threads' started by DTrykow, Feb 15, 2011.

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  1. DTrykow

    DTrykow Active Member

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    I recently had some re-checkering done by Cindy Devault on my Perazzi, 28LPI. The previous owner refinshed the stock and varnished over the checkering. Just got it back and Cindy did an amazing job. Looks different with the dull area of the checkering versus the shine of the rest of the stock. What's the preference out there on this? I had a stock done from start to finish down at KI in PA and they varnished over their checkering. Beautiful job but other shooters think it detracts from the gun. Looking at what Cindy did now I think I tend to agree. Any thoughts? Dave T.
     
  2. Mark-in-Maine

    Mark-in-Maine Member

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    It sounds like you have answered your own question.
     
  3. CalvinMD

    CalvinMD Well-Known Member

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    not over the checkering ...yuck
     
  4. DTrykow

    DTrykow Active Member

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    CalvinMD: I'll try to post the stock that KI did for you to see. Dave T.
     
  5. John Stefanowicz

    John Stefanowicz TS Member

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    If your checkering is found to be too sharp, trying a very, very light sanding with 1200 grit. It will reduce the varnish at the points (which will be slightly dulled) but might give you the appearance you're looking for. John
     
  6. skeet_man

    skeet_man Well-Known Member

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    I'd put a really thin coat of linseed oil over it to protect it from rain and sweat. Available at an arts and crafts store.
     
  7. Ahab

    Ahab Well-Known Member

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    I would thin down some varnish and give the checkering a very light coat ... just to seal the wood, and not bring out any shine.
     
  8. short shucker

    short shucker TS Member

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    Dem-Bart makes some really good checkering oil that'll dress the checkering without filling it in. It seals the wood up nicely. I've used it on several occassions to treat my checkering when I've had it recut.

    ss
     
  9. mike campbell

    mike campbell Active Member

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    Do you know if Cindy sealed the checkerng at all? You don't want to leave it completely raw, unsealed. When I checker I use a pipe cleaner as a brush to put in a coat of finish thinned 50/50 with mineral spirits. This will penetrate, darken but not shine the checkering. A day later I repeat with full strength finish. After about 1 minute, I rub it vigorously with a paper towel to make sure there's no build-up. Usually, this dries to flat for my tase and I repeat once or twice more. I like just a little shine, maybe less than the surrounding wood. But a little shine tells me the wood is sealed. If a drop of water, like a drop of rain, leaves a spot in the checkering, it's not sealed. A drop of gun oil will leave a permanent stain if it's not sealed.

    In summary, 3-4 coats is about right, IMO.

    Freshly cut...


    KM10.jpg


    Freshly sealed...


    KM9.jpg
     
  10. Hawk46

    Hawk46 TS Member

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    Mike, nice looking work!
     
  11. joe blow

    joe blow TS Member

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    Most finishers will cut the finish by half with thinner to seal the checkering. that's what the one picture shows. One or two coats.
     
  12. Stl Flyn

    Stl Flyn Well-Known Member

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    Here is a TM-4 stock I am refinishing for my father inlaw. I still have to put a thin coat over the checkering, to seal it. I used masking tape to cover the checkering while I sprayed the stock. Then wet sanded and polished the finish, removed the tape, cleaned out the edging with a checkering file and restained. Just need to seal the checkering, clean out the milled area, and repolish. The cheek piece is finished. Jon
    stlflyn_2010_070466.jpg

    stlflyn_2010_070467.jpg

    stlflyn_2010_070468.jpg
     
  13. Anchorsteam

    Anchorsteam TS Member

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    As above - acoat of very thin linseed oil works great. Apply with an 'acid brush' that you buy at an auto parts store - then spray it off with gentle compressed air. Then wipe everything off.

    StlFlyn - what did you shoot it with?
     
  14. Stl Flyn

    Stl Flyn Well-Known Member

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    20 coats of Tru-oil. One coat a day. Waited for 10 days then started sanding and polishing. Seems like I have been doing it for months. Oh, I have been. Jon
     
  15. ou.3200

    ou.3200 Well-Known Member

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    No varnish on the checkering. Apply a finishing oil and brush the checkering thoroughly both directions with a soft tooth brush to remove any excess. There should be no build up left in the checkering. I use Antique Finishing Oil by Minwax. I don't even know if it is still made.
     
  16. DTrykow

    DTrykow Active Member

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    Here is what KI did:

    dtrykow_2008_03034.jpg

    dtrykow_2008_03035.jpg

    dtrykow_2008_03036.jpg
     
  17. DTrykow

    DTrykow Active Member

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    I have Tru-oil and Danish oil. Looks like Cindy didn't seal it after the re-checkering. Will these work? Thanks, Dave T.
     
  18. ou.3200

    ou.3200 Well-Known Member

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    I wouldn't use Tru-Oil as I don't think it is actually an oil but more like a varnish with a glossy sheen to it. I have not used Danish Oil but if it is clear, no stain, it should work fine. I suspect it is either tung oil or a linseed oil product either of which would provide the seal and flat finish appropriate for checkering. Maybe someone else has used Danish Oil.
     
  19. mike campbell

    mike campbell Active Member

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    Either will work. Danish oil is urethane-modified tung oil, Tru-oil is urethane-modified linseed oil. Since you have both, I recommend the Danish oil. Just don't over do it and don't let it build up. Do 2 coats and shoot it for awhile... don't be afraid to wait a couple weeks to see if you want a third. Each coat will shine more than the last. Follow my instructions above and you'll be telling evrybody what a wonderful guy I am.
     
  20. 682b

    682b Member

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    Why don't you give Cindy a call. She would know what she did and could give you your answers. jim
     
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