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Temperature control on shotmaker

Discussion in 'Shooting Related Threads' started by phirel, May 29, 2010.

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  1. phirel

    phirel TS Member

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    I just added more lead when it got too hot. If it got too cold, I would let things heat up for a short time. I could tell if it was too hot or cold by the rate the lead dripped out.

    Pat Ireland
     
  2. GoldEx

    GoldEx Active Member

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    You really need to walk a fine line between too hot and too cold. It is expecially hard if your shot making area is not temperature controlled and you live in the north and it's winter. You want to keep things as consistent as possible and unfortunately, that means babysitting your machine most of the time. We just have a casting thermometer in each ladle to monitor the temp and if we see it get too high, shut off the power for a minute of two, and a preheated ingot and things usually stabilize. The cause of the lead getting too hot is usually me getting side tracked and letting the lead level get down too low. If you have the ability to set up a temp control off of a stove, Let us all know how it worked out for you if you hook up the controller and what it cost. Always looking to improve my system.

    Jeff
     
  3. Ajax

    Ajax Well-Known Member

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    Yes, I have them on all my shotmakers.

    Ajax
     
  4. maclellan1911

    maclellan1911 TS Member

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    ajax, what did you use and how is it wired in
     
  5. Ajax

    Ajax Well-Known Member

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    I haven't had one apart in a while so this is from memory.

    For the 220 units I used rheostats from a stove and used a round fiberglass light fixture box mounted on the side of the back corner of the element holder. On some of the Littleton that's where they were wired.

    From the plug to the box I ran number 12 braided wire and from the rheostats to the heating elements I ran number 10 heat shielded wire. The rheostats are a four wire set up. Two coming in and two going to the 1500 watt element. I made a face plate for the boxes and divided them into 8 different segment and used a temperature gun to mark the heat at each line.

    The 110 units the wiring is a little different. I think I had to use a loop to tie together two side of the rheostat. I installed the rheostat on top, in the original hole the toggle switch was in.
    It's kind of a waste to do this on a 110 unit because normally you need all the heat you can get. It does help if you need to do something for a time and you can throttle it back. That way you don't have to waste time coming up from a cold start up.


    Ajax
     
  6. maclellan1911

    maclellan1911 TS Member

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    aside from salvaging a control unit...where would you get one and of what type?

    I had to wire a 220/15amp box for my unit. I would like to have a temp control. I find it hard to keep temps down and not over fill the maker above the nozzles. which for me makes larger odd shaped shot when I get the levels to high above the nozzles.
     
  7. Ajax

    Ajax Well-Known Member

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    I first wired a 220 box from the panel and then bought a 12-3 heavy duty extension cord. Most electrical supply houses have them. If not, look up an Industrial supply. Cut it the length needed and wired a 220 plug to the end. Everything else I found at an appliance shop. The heat shield wire was hard to find in 10 gauge. 12 will do but it will have to be change more often.

    I went to one pound ingots to help control the level in the ladles.

    Ajax
     
  8. maclellan1911

    maclellan1911 TS Member

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    220/15amp box---check
    220/20amp cord to out side----check
    temp control unit----needed- what do you need?
     
  9. Ajax

    Ajax Well-Known Member

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    Some of the appliance repair shops in my area will let you go through the old stoves before they junk them out for scrap. Some heating elements and rheostats they gave me and some I paid a few dollar for.

    It sounds like you only need a rheostat and a receptacle box to hold it and the connections, and some wire. doggai seems to have you covered on the rheostat.

    Ajax
     
  10. Ajax

    Ajax Well-Known Member

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    doggai, PM sent.

    Ajax
     
  11. maclellan1911

    maclellan1911 TS Member

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    sorry been away for a while, work PC is blocked
     
  12. ricks1

    ricks1 TS Member

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    AJ put it on a Littleton that is AL bowl it wont work on a Stewart need to keep the cast iron hot the temp control is not as fast as on/ off switch dont need to waste the time . been there done it
     
  13. Ajax

    Ajax Well-Known Member

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    I've never had the opportunity to run a Stewart and I can see a rheostat may cause a problem. It would matter which rheostat you put on it also. Some have a 15, or more, degree swing that would make it hard to maintain heat but most of the newer ones have a 2 degree swing. They are consistent and probably could be used on the Cast ladle.

    Ajax
     
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