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Surface Rust ??????

Discussion in 'Shooting Related Threads' started by mbm5770, Nov 18, 2012.

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  1. mbm5770

    mbm5770 Member

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    I shot last night and it was cold and ended up frosting a little on us as we were shooting. I looked at my gun tonight and it has some surface rust forming on it. How do I stop this?
     
  2. mbm5770

    mbm5770 Member

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  3. The Literalist

    The Literalist Well-Known Member

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    Slather the oil on it, rub it...and hope you caught it before it's pitted.

    That's about all you can do.
     
  4. Avaldes

    Avaldes Well-Known Member

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    On the blue surface or the bare steel surface? Scotch Brite and oil works well on bare steel. It is a machinists trick to get a good surface finish.
     
  5. kirbythegunsmith

    kirbythegunsmith Member

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    I usually mention this annually in the articles that I write.

    I have been continually recounting some advice given to me by an old duck hunter over 2 decades ago, and that is to rub the exposed steel with a premium car wax, and I prefer a liquid polymer on a lint free paper towel like a VIVA or other soft buffing cloth.


    If water beads on the wax on your car paint, the water never touched the paint, right?


    Duck hunters out in the sleet and worse will need this advice more than most shooters, but anyone interested in reducing the chances of corrosion will want to consider this remedy.


    Don't use excess liquid that will squeeze out and run into the working mechanism, but use discretion in which direction any liquid might drain i.e. toward open areas rather than recesses and moving parts, such as extractor spring recesses.

    Multiple light applications are better than one heavy wipedown, and rub from different directions or angles to overlap the coverage of each light application to ensure double buffed treatment of each spot.

    Clean the metal before initial waxing, such as with rubbing alcohol wipedown, and once a heavy treatment is done, an occasional re-treat will help boost the protection.


    Keep wax off the wood, but be thorough on the outside ferrous components for the best protective barrier against moisture. That will be cheap insurance, since one bottle ought to last years even with multiple guns requiring treatment.


    Kirby
     
  6. mike calkins

    mike calkins TS Member

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    Kirby, if the wood has a poly or laquer finish wouldn't the wax since it has uv inhibitors in it work on the wood as well? Mike
     
  7. kirbythegunsmith

    kirbythegunsmith Member

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    I tend to worry more about metal finish integrity, and have concern that any wax on the wood might inhibit grip qualities wherever skin contact is concerned, so the reader should do what they think is prudent in any wood treatment.


    I'd say stay away from the comb, pistol grip, and forend grip areas, for sure. The recoil pad face is another area you would probably not want to be made slick, either, but the top corner of the pad (you know, where it hooks your T-shirt in casual shooting attire) might benefit from an edge smoothing and waxing.

    Plenty of shooters know of that edge rework, plus some sporting pads already have a smooth plastic insert to help the shooters with sloppy mounting technique.


    Kirby
     
  8. lightning20ga

    lightning20ga Member

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    try never dull it leaves the blue alone let it sit over nite with any type of oil on it like w d 40 then gently rub with never dull iv had good luck with this
     
  9. Unknown1

    Unknown1 Well-Known Member

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    "Fluid Film"...developed for the Navy to prevent corrosion...contains wax and lanolin...spray it onto a patch and wipe...John Deere dealers or on line.

    Keller
     
  10. kiv-c

    kiv-c Member

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    To remove surface rust without damaging the blue, use one of these: http://www.big45metalcleaner.com/Customers/

    After you see how well it works, you'll be ordering another soon!

    Kiv
     
  11. gun fitter

    gun fitter TS Member

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    fine steel wool and petrolium baised oil will remove fine surface rust and not do much damage if ant to the blueing.
     
  12. pumpernck

    pumpernck Member

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    slp 2000 ewl. Coat the inside and outside of the barrel with it. It bonds to the metal, forming a barrier and also lubricates without attracting dirt and dust. Makes the barrel a lot easier to clean as the fouling is less and the plastic wad residue just peels off the inside when you run a patch. Use flitz to remove the surface rust, as it will not damage the bluing on the barrel, then use the slp 2000 ewl. You won't be sorry!
     
  13. trim tab

    trim tab Active Member

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    Consider using Renaissance Micro-crystalline wax polish. Madein England and used my many museums and restoration specialists ro revive and protec valuable furniture, leather, paintings, metals, marble, ivory and many other surfaces exposed to weather. dries hard instantly and does not show finger marks. great stuff and it works. little pricey, google it and buy online. Little goes long ways
     
  14. OldRemFan

    OldRemFan Member

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    I agree with gunfitter. Fine steel wool, 0000 or finer if available, soaked in light oil, and use very light pressure going over the affected area.
     
  15. Johnny

    Johnny Well-Known Member

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    I would not use an abrasive such as steel wool, scotchbrite pads or polishing compounds. Use a good bore cleaner and a bronze brush.
     
  16. Shooting Jack

    Shooting Jack Active Member

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    I can't believe someone hasn't recommended Clenzoil. It is the best gun protection that I know of. Wipe your guns after use and it does not damage the wood. Also if you have a gun that has already developed rust get a stainless steel pot scrubber from you local grocery store and wipe gun down with clenzoil and then rub with the pot scrubber and it will take the rust off and not damage the blueing. I have used this trick on many guns after a trapshooter on here told me about and it works. If the gun is used in rain just wipe it dry and it will not develop any rust. Jackie B.
     
  17. trim tab

    trim tab Active Member

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    I use Clenzoil for my guns and agree with Jackie that it is the best. Even smells good.
     
  18. Pipe Layer

    Pipe Layer Well-Known Member

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    I spray mine with Lemon pledge furniture polish.Metal and wood.Seems to work and smell good also:)
    TD
     
  19. wolfram

    wolfram Well-Known Member

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    The wax treatments etc are good but you may also want to get a little closer to the cause which is water condensing on the cold gun metal when you bring the piece into a warm humid room. A little shot of WD40 on the cold metal and a quick wipe will do wonders. When the gun is at room temp give it another wipe down with a silicon treated cloth and run an oily patch though the bores while your at it. (the condensate will occur on all the metal surfaces)
     
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