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Stock Refinishing

Discussion in 'Shooting Related Threads' started by bubba68, Apr 4, 2012.

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  1. bubba68

    bubba68 Member

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    I know this has been discussed extensively on here - but my searches can't find anything.

    So, can anyone direct me to previous threads that discuss how to refinish a stock. I have a Browning with the high gloss finish. And, I want to get to a good hand-rubbed oil finish.

    Any help would be appreciated.
  2. Johnny

    Johnny Active Member

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    Don't mess it, you will regret it.
  3. gun fitter

    gun fitter TS Member

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    Sand the stock to bare wood then sand to 280to 400 grit depending on how smooth or shiny you want the oil finish. Get Pro custom oil from brownells and start the coats alowing 24 hrs minimum to cure sand to the wood for three coats then apply thin coats unt5ill the luster you want is obtained. (this is the easy way for a novice) I prefer Permalyn Stock Finish but you may need a bit more experience to get your desired results. I could do the pro custom oil process for $265 or the permalyn finish for $295 turn around would be about 3-6 weeks depending on finish type chosen and drying times.

    Joe goldberg
  4. Jim R

    Jim R Well-Known Member

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    PM sent
  5. grntitan

    grntitan Well-Known Member

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    Did mine myself and I don't regret it at all.

    Before

    [​IMG]


    After

    [​IMG]
  6. Chango2

    Chango2 Active Member

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    Anybody had good results with "rattle can" refinishing? I'm trying Minwax gloss polurethane on an old stock..doesn't fill the wood well, so it is spray, sand, see high spots, spray a again, see high spots...not much effort, but time involved between coats.

    Maybe one can spray more than one coat on (letting each dry) before sanding?

    I dunno, lacquer used to work so much better for painting projects.
  7. Mark425

    Mark425 TS Member

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    I do stocks all the time and the best written instructions I have found are in the link above. I use Laurel Mountain Forge Permalyn most of the time but still follow the same instructions as in the link. If you go the Permalyn route be sure and thin it like the link says and not straight from the can like Laurel Mountain suggests. Good luck and with patience you can have as nice a finish as the ones you pay for.

    p.s. Worst (cheap plastic looking) finish to my eye is the ever popular Tru-Oil...might as well use Home Depot spray polyurethane.
  8. claybuster38

    claybuster38 TS Member

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    Now let's not knock true oil. It is one of the finest -You have to lay the foundation then apply many fine coats and steel wool. Most do not want to spend the time and effort you can have high gloss or satin. The good thing about it is if a slight mar happens later you cansand lightly and go right over-- Makes for easy repair. What ever you do no plastic-- Thane--You will regret it later. Marv
  9. 682b

    682b Member

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    I do not like Tru oil It does not hold up well under moderate use. I second what the Gun fitter said Custom pro gun oil makes for a outstanding finish that holds up well year after year, OH It comes in a RATTLE CAN as well as in a bulk can. If you want a seance of cheep gratification use Tru Oil. I tried it and after several years I striped it down and re did it with Custom pro gun oil. For the extra work it is worth the exceptional results If you need help PM me. Jim
  10. Johnny

    Johnny Active Member

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    I have used Permalyn for my last two custom stocks. It is a very good low build finish. After filling the grain with many coats it looks just like the Browning finish that bubba is wanting to remove. I have never used Custom Pro Oil but I know it is a Tung oil-modified urethane. Tru-oil is also a modified oil. All of these finishes end up being a gloss finish {"cheap plastic looking"} just like a Browning gloss finish.


    Bubba, If you don't like the gloss finish, knock the gloss off with some steel wool and you will have the finish you are going to end up with using Permalyn or Tru-oil anyway. Either of those two are very tough durable finishes but I like the color of Permalyn better. Or, if you want a real, old timey hand rubbed oil finish, you can spend the rest of your life rubbing in linseed or pure tung oil.
    It can be very difficult and frustrating to strip a Browning finish. Browning does a very good job of making plain wood look good. Don't say you weren't warned.
  11. Johnny

    Johnny Active Member

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    grntitan , Is the "before" finish a factory finish? I wouldn't want that either.
  12. grntitan

    grntitan Well-Known Member

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    Johnny,

    Yes, the before was factory. I just thought it a shame to hide that beautiful wood the way that finish did. The after picture doesn't really do it much justice. I need to take some good pics outside in natural light. It turned out beautiful and made the figure in the wood almost appear 3D. Of course I am a little biased as I did it myself. I will say that re-finishing stocks is not something I wish to do for a living. The guys/gals who do that for a living, earn their money. Very time consuming and somewhat nerve racking.


    A pic when it was near complete

    [​IMG]
  13. Johnny

    Johnny Active Member

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    grntitan , that"before" finish is what I would expect when a factory finish is removed and a couple coats of finish is applied to get that "hand rubbed oil finish". The wood looks best when the grain is filled to a level finish which eliminates reflections. Yes, it is time consuming and a lot of work, especially stripping a Browning type stock, which is why I always advise beginners against doing it. I put about 70 coats on my last stock and it looks a mile deep.
  14. APrice

    APrice Active Member

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    Eliminates reflections???
  15. dale58

    dale58 Member

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    Grntitan, Very nice looking job. Now you just have to get started on that table in your after pic. Just kidding Matt, I know you have a sense of humor. Dale
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