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Stock Refinishing

Discussion in 'Uncategorized Threads' started by ftlupton, Feb 6, 2006.

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  1. ftlupton

    ftlupton TS Member

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    I do 15 to 20 stocks a year for the last 25 years so here is my method. First strip all the old finish off using a stripper agent, checkering and all. Mask off any plastic that you can't remove. Sanding is very important at this point, if dings or scratches are present sand them with the grain, carefully! I use 220 down to 400 wet or dry to remove all scratches. If it is a Franchi it is european walnut and usually hard enough you don't have to raise the grain with water and heat. Next decide on stain or not, that's up to you. If you do use good stain that penetrates and seals. Let dry for at least a day. I then mix tung oil and mineral spirits about 70/30 tung oil. Soak the wood and wipe off at least 2 times in a day. This will further seal the wood. I then start with Tru-Oil, follow directions(hint:use sparingly). Add till you're happy then let dry for 72 hrs. For gloss rub it down lightly with compound for satin use more compound. Work till you're happy. Let me know if you get into a snag. ftlupton
     
  2. Tbone

    Tbone TS Member

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    ftlupton has a great method. A bit quicker for a loaner gun is to strip it, carefully sand deep scratches and then apply 3 coats Watco Danish oil with fine steel wool rubbing in well. If you have good wood color, use the clear. It will darken it up some. Let dry and apply a light coat of Johnson beeswax. This will give you a nice finish that is easily repaired.
     
  3. ftlupton

    ftlupton TS Member

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    Agree TBone, have used that method to if I'm rushed and it works fine.
    ftlupton
     
  4. marotta

    marotta TS Member

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    How does one enhance the grain of a stock? Is there a pen one can use? Ink, paint or stain? What do the experts use to enhance the grain?


    Raffaele
     
  5. phirel

    phirel TS Member

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    Raffaele- The only way to enhance the grain without making a mess is to select a stain that will increase the contrast between the soft and hard sections of each grain. On some stocks, an oil penetrating stain will do this better than a water based stain but on really hard stocks, the water base stain works a little better.

    I am out of the stock business but at one time did a lot of them. I loved to checker. For me, sanding the wood with nothing finer than 240 grit worked best. The very fine paper, like 400 grit seemed to burnish the wood and prevent the stain from penetrating. The purpose of sanding the wood is to remove scratches. The gloss finish is achieved by sanding the finish with fine paper and then buffing on a soft wheel in a drill press. I used a lacquer filler and automotive lacquer finishes. Not quite as durable as some other finishes but it is quick and easy to apply if you are set up with a series of spray guns. This produces a very high gloss finish. It can be toned down is desired with different grits of rubbing compound.


    Pat Ireland
     
  6. Bruce Em

    Bruce Em Member

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    This is super!

    Question: How do you get that nice reddish cast that pre-64 Winchesters and older brownings have? I would guess stain but does anyone have a recommendation?

    Thanks
     
  7. ftlupton

    ftlupton TS Member

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    To get the red stain it is best to order it from Brownell's. They have it. If not mix dark walnut with red mahogany about 50/50, mix a little and check if you need more red add more etc. Staining can drive you nuts, have patience and use scrap wood to check then let it dry for a full day.
    ftlupton
     
  8. willing

    willing Member

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    This is an extremely interesting and useful thread. Wish we had more.Thanks
    Bill
     
  9. ftlupton

    ftlupton TS Member

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    Have used wipe on poly for furniture, too think for stocks. Secret to a good finish on oil type stock is put it on thin, use more coats. You want the finish in the wood not on the wood.
    ftlupton
     
  10. ljutic73

    ljutic73 Well-Known Member

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    I restocked my Ljutic back in '93 and used a product called Flecto Varathane Plastic Oil (probaby much like tru-oil or Linspeed) to fill the pores in the English walnut by wet sanding with 600 up to 1500 grit paper. After that dried I sprayed on 5-6 coats of Flecto Varathane high gloss (a premium quality polyurathane)...left it to harden for a month and then VERY carefully "color sanded" it to level the finish and then polished it with Turtle Wax white rubbing compound. It has held up very well and really shows off the wood. Pics available by e-mail. I wish I could still get Roberts Gun Stock Finish. It was a clear 2-part epoxy that was made in California in the 70's and early 80's. It was superb and produced a durable and somewhat flexible finish that would stand up to handling better than anything else I've ever seen. Unfortunatly when the company was sold the new owner chose not to continue making it.
     
  11. Bruce Em

    Bruce Em Member

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    Dear ftlupton,

    In your first post, you said "then mix tung oil and mineral spirits about 70/30 tung oil". I initially understood that to be 70% tung oil but then at the end, you reversed the order. Which is it please and thank you for your stain advice.
     
  12. Jerry944t

    Jerry944t Well-Known Member

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    I have used a product, available through Brownells's, called Pro-Custom oil by Chem-Pak. It is a combination Tung oil and urethanes that makes for a beautiful and durable finish.

    I understand that several professionals use it since it is easy and relatively fast drying and results in a georgous, deep finish.

    Feather enough coats on then wet sand it with 1000 grit to eliminate orange peel. Buff it with auto rubbing compound for a satin look or finish the buffing with Meguire's haze remover for a deep, glass-like finish. It works great!

    Smash Em,

    Jerry
     
  13. ftlupton

    ftlupton TS Member

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    bruce em, I think I said 70/30 for tung oil and mineral spirits and 50/50 for the stain. Sorry if I confused you. All of these are starting points only anyway because each piece of walnut is very different in grain. American walnut and European walnut are 2 different animals and have to be treated as such. The one thing I differ with a lot of guys on is filler, I don't ever use filler. On trap guns that are handled so much in hot weather I have seen many fillers back out of the finish. I fill with finish, takes a lot longer and you have to really let it dry but it works. As far a burnishing the wood with 400 to get scratches, i agree if you sand hard it will, I don't I sand very very lightly and take more time to get scratches out. Pat is right, you have to tread very lightly. Hope all this helps, it is a great feeling to get it just right and it looks like a pro did it. Best to all.
    ftlupton
     
  14. ljutic73

    ljutic73 Well-Known Member

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    Pro-Custom Oil sounds like a winner...I might have to try some...I've got 3 or 4 stocks to finish.
     
  15. halfmile

    halfmile Well-Known Member

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    The nicest one I ever did was an old single shot Winchester .22. I used a G96 linseed product, wiped on with my finger. Camd out beautiful.

    Does anyone know if this is still available? I would love to have some more.

    HM
     
  16. phirel

    phirel TS Member

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    Also, it should be clear to everyone reading this thread that there are many ways to get a nice stock finish. All of them require filling up the pores in the wood to get a nice smooth finish. It takes a little time for each individual to develop a method that works well for him. The first try might require sanding everything off again and starting over.

    Pat Ireland
     
  17. zzt

    zzt Well-Known Member

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    OK, maybe you guys can help me with my dilemma. I was all set to finish my brand new Perazzi stock with a tung oil finish. I ordered it unfinished because I wanted to be able to do some final "tweaking" first. Unfortunately it arrived with some kind of finish already on it. I asked why and was told they thought I meant unvarnished, not unfinished. So it has some kind of stain/sealer on it, but no gloss.

    Does anybody know what this is? I do have to do a little work on it, so I'd like to know what I'm in for before I start. Should I just find out what they put on it and apply more after I shave it, or strip it and refinish with tung oil?
     
  18. ftlupton

    ftlupton TS Member

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    Pat, I sand every other coat of Tru-Oil very lightly with 600 wet then add very thin coats until it looks like glass. Is this about how you do it? I'm doing an MX 2000 stock now and after 5 coats it is looking super, good hard European walnut. Oh, I also use Brownell's rubbing compound on the final coat to get a softer not quite satin finish. I do not like the platic look and won't do one that way. Getting old and fussy I guess.
    ftlupton
     
  19. ljutic73

    ljutic73 Well-Known Member

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    Who out there makes a catylized polymer finish that's available to the general public?
     
  20. Golden Beebe

    Golden Beebe TS Member

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    "ljutic73"

    DuPont....Chroma base...
     
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