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Stock Finish Question

Discussion in 'Shooting Related Threads' started by Chango2, Jan 14, 2012.

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  1. Chango2

    Chango2 Active Member

    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2007
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    Picked used Beretta 303 field stock with shiny factory finish. Stock has some minor dings and scratches. Wish to refinish and keep that type of shiny and utilitarian finish as per the forearm on my 303.

    Question: Has anyone tried some of the newer and techy "Mimwax" stain/poly products that either spray on or brush on? I plan to remove the old finish using paint stripper, raise the mild dents with heat and moisture (steam iron), sand as needed, do mild filling, stain and or use a techy new product.

    Now all that looks tempting from what I see available at Home Depot etc. Anybody have other suggestions or has anybody used these types of furniture refinish products? I want gun to look good, but it is hardly going to be high grade "eye candy", just neat, clean, and functional. Metal and forend on gun are very, very clean.

    Thanks,

    David
     
  2. claybuster38

    claybuster38 Member

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    Mar 23, 2008
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    Minwax is good stuff-sand fill and seal- use fine steel wool between. I apply thin coats with my hands- you may use a soft rag. several thin coats. The key is the preparation. Marv White
     
  3. hmb

    hmb Well-Known Member

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    Jan 29, 1998
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    How about having an auto body shop spray it with one of their high tech clear coats. HMB
     
  4. billyboy07208

    billyboy07208 Member

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    Jan 29, 1998
    Messages:
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    This is what I do,and its been good enuf for me,but i`m lazy and 1 week is all I`ll devote to it:
    50/50 turps and truoil or tungoil below the surface,then thin thin coats of str8 truoil on top 2 times a day for 5 days.After each coat dries,I will inspect very closely for dust nibs-hair-etc,and veryyy lightly spot sand [600 or finer] the hair nibs till its out,then apply the next rub coat.When thats all done I lightly rub out with watchmakers crystal polish.

    I make an applicator from an square of old bedsheet with a cottonball inside soaked with finish,the bedsheet will strain out bits of crust from the bottle.
     
  5. bob easton

    bob easton TS Member

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    Dec 11, 2011
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    The hardest, and most time consuming, part of the work is removing the old finish and prepping the wood for new finish.

    So... why fret over the fastest (or cheapest) way to get done? Once you've put that much work into it, it's not much more work to do it right. Whether you use the Minwax products or tried and true Truoil, you'll need multiple coats, rubbed out between each.

    Use the GOOD stuff Truoil!
     
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