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Spolar hyd or PW Auto-Drive?

Discussion in 'Shooting Related Threads' started by buckshot57, Dec 24, 2010.

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  1. buckshot57

    buckshot57 TS Member

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    My hydraulic unit on my Spolar crapped out. Do you think it best to repair or go with a new PW auto-drive system?
     
  2. goose2

    goose2 Well-Known Member

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    Feb 20, 2007
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    2,037
    The auto drive I have on my P/W is flat out awesome to say the least. It is fast, very quiet and loads them smooth as silk. With no leaks.
     
  3. skeeljc

    skeeljc Supporting Vendor Supporting Vendor

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    Terre Haute Indiana
    I have an 800 Plus with the Auto-Drive. I cannot imagine ever going back to a hydraulic power supply. Way too much noise and heat.

    P/W has discontinued their hydraulic setup. I have seen the Auto-Drive on P/W's, Spolars, Hornady 366s, Dillon Metallic Loaders and even a Case-Pro Sizer.

    The only problem I have had with my Auto-Drive is keeping the slip clutch adjusted (it tends to tighten up and not slip).

    Jim Skeel P/W Dealer/Dist
     
  4. g7777777

    g7777777 TS Supporters TS Supporters

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    Was it a non spolar hydraulic?

    I have never even heard of a Spolar Hydraulic not working?

    I have a used Spolar Hydrualic set up for a Spolar-(just needs a different stub to work with PWs)

    $877.77 plus shipping

    regards from Iowa

    Gene
     
  5. dverna

    dverna Active Member

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    I would look at a repair as that would be less costly than a replacement - or at least it should be. Best to call Spolar and see. When you say "crapped out", what happened? Even an Auto-drive will set you back over $800.

    If buying a new unit here is my $.02. I have both and prefer the Auto-drive although the slip clutch "walks" on the shaft and needs to be adjusted every few thousand rounds. It is quite, and there is no oil to leak. The only other "issue" is that in order to reverse the cycle there is a switch on the control box that needs to be thrown.

    I have an older Spolar (#911) purchased used that must have loaded over 150,000 rounds and there are no leaks yet. But It is only a matter of time until the seals create a problem. When that happens, I will have the cylinder repaired and it will likely last until I can no longer reload.

    Don Verna
     
  6. birdogs

    birdogs TS Member

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    I have not seen the Auto-Drive for the Hornady 366. Where can I get info on this?
     
  7. buckshot57

    buckshot57 TS Member

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    My hydraulic started to make a different noise, so I checked the level of the fluid. It looked ok, but I added fluid just to make myself think that was all it needed. I then continued to use it & the noise started to "weaken" making much less noise than normal. I watched the pressure gauge & all looked fine. Then it started jerking & the gauge revealed very low pressure.
    I'm going to call Dicksie monday & see what they think. If the hydro repair is going to near the cost of the P/W auto drive, I will probably make the switch, although I have loaded many thousand rounds with this setup.
    Jim Bauer
     
  8. dverna

    dverna Active Member

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    First thing to look at is a defective bypass valve. It relives pressure and is the "buzzing" sound you hear at the end of the stroke. Or you could have a bad hydraulic pump.

    Either way, it sounds like something that can be repaired or replaced.

    Good luck.

    Don Verna
     
  9. njwoodworker

    njwoodworker Member

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    Nov 2, 2009
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    Birddogs,
    PW has a specific model for the 366. I posted on my install earlier this year. Now have 10,000 plus shells loaded witth it and just hums along / no noise. If you are now using a 366 I would recommend the foot switch option.
    Once your emptys gave been resized and set up on the bench with an wad hopper nearby, it is possible to nearly keep up with the cycle time of the machine for spurts of 100 -150 shells. I do it often. Then reload primers and recheck powder drops.
    Do a search on my name earlier this year for pics. Reloaders.com (PW) has a demo video of aan auto 366.
    Dan Gill
    908-448-6820
     
  10. 1166

    1166 Member

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    I purched the autodrive from PW & put it on my 800plus because of a bad shoulder some minor adjustments needed, however added the foot control whitch made things much easier (watch your fingers)I found that I could keep my foot on the switch & speed load only to get inconcistent powder drops.I now stop momentarily @ the end of each up& down stroke, workes perfectly now.
     
  11. whiz white

    whiz white Strong Supporter of Trapshooting Banned

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    I talk to the factory about every day and have yet to be told that they've discontinued the hydraulic. It is priced at $975 now.

    FYI: P/W does not nor has ever made their own unit, it is made elsewhere and they have been shipped from that location. I have dealt directly with these people and the actual guy who is responsible for their assembly for P/W. You can still get service on their units.

    In fact, I have a slightly used unit here at the shop that is available for $750. The electric drives are nice and quiet. I even have had a couple of customers who trded them back in for hydraulics. They said they like the micro-adjustability of the hydro over the electric's.

    I have used both, but I still like my hydro better.

    IMHO.

    Whiz
     
  12. buckshot57

    buckshot57 TS Member

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    I found the problem! The coupler between the motor & pump was slipping. Actually it appears to be the incorrect coupler or a small piece/shim missing & bored a hole in the oversize slot in the key way. Spolar is sending me another coupler & should be back in business with considerable less cost than a new Auto-Drive or new pump/motor from Spolar. Thanks everyone for your ideas & thoughts.
    jim bauer
     
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