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shotmaker buner heating element replacement

Discussion in 'Shooting Related Threads' started by leadman, Feb 25, 2011.

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  1. leadman

    leadman TS Member

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    Jan 29, 1998
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    Wondering if any one has ever replaced the element in a littleton 220 volt shotmaker. I recall hearing that it ideally would be in the 1320 watt range, wheras the ones I have so far seen readily available are 1250 watts. Ever find an aftermarket source for a good element?

    Also would like to know the wattage for the 110 units, I believe it is 1200 watts. Any ideas on boosting the heat on the single units? Any ideas or tips even some what related would be appreciated. Thanks
     
  2. Jim101

    Jim101 Active Member

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    Knob Noster, Mo
    The 240 volt ones max out at 1500 watts. I get mine from Lowes. They are electric range elements. The 120 volt ones max out at 1250 watts.





    Jim
     
  3. Ajax

    Ajax Well-Known Member

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    Mine stated out as 110 units and I tried a number of different way to generate more heat. From heat strips along the front and sides, to a torch set up in the back.

    Finally I put 1500W/240V in them. I also put rheostats in them for heat control. I change ladles and on some shot sizes I raise the front of the unit and run less head pressure, so less heat in needed.

    Ajax
     
  4. leadman

    leadman TS Member

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    Thanks for the input.I went to the big box store today(HD). Turned out none of the correctly sized burners had any wattage/voltage info listed whatsoever.
    Just references to what model ranges they would fit.

    I copied the part # (ge pm30x207 as an example) and did an internet search. I did not learn any more that way. I want to be sure I am getting the highest wattage burner available for the machine. Is it accurate that a burner is either a 220 or a 110?

    Ajax, what is involved in the conversion of a 110 unit? Just getting a 220 burner and a new powercord(assuming you are going to work with out the rheostat)?

    Seeing the Range burner receptacles today made me wonder, would it be a superior (or at least less prone to burnout) connection? Anyone ever incorporated them into a unit? I will tell you my 110 models have there share of electrical knockout covers on the bottom.
     
  5. Jim101

    Jim101 Active Member

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    Location:
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    The wattage is normally on the fixture that holds the coils together. If you get a 220 volt that has the most coils, Usually 4 or more it will be a 1500 watt burner. The more coils the better it will work. The other option is go to an appliance repair store and take a look thru the cromalox catalog. It will have about every type burner you can imgine.






    Jim
     
  6. Ajax

    Ajax Well-Known Member

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    It's been a while, but I think I used 12-2 braided wire for the plug and wired everything on the inside with number 10 heat shielded wire. I think I changed the toggle switch to one rated for 240. Your's may be, some aren't. Later I changed the connection.
    Facing the drop lip, I made the connection on the left hand corner of the box on the outside. When the wire burned off I could change it with out taking the box apart. The wires usually corrode at the connections.

    The Big Box stores carry the newer elements and they are "energy efficient". Usually topping out at 1325.

    Jim's right. I found my elements/wire at a repair shop. Look for a 4 or 5 coil element. They do have some in 3 and I still have a couple but they don't spread the heat as well and if your running a Littleton they are hard on the Aluminum ladle.

    Good luck,

    Ajax
     
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