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Sealer for Traphouse concrete

Discussion in 'Shooting Related Threads' started by JimmyP, Feb 28, 2010.

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  1. JimmyP

    JimmyP TS Member

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    We have a problem with water leaking through our traphouse walls. They are made of concrete and have some small cracks in them. I would like to know if anyone has sealed their traphouse walls and what type or kind of sealer used. We are in Texas so not a lot of houses around here have basements or such so not a lot of experience here. We can spray or brush on. We have access to any equipment needed. All help would be appreciated. Thanks


    Jimmy
     
  2. cubancigar2000

    cubancigar2000 Well-Known Member

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    I am not an expert but I think you have to dig down and seal the outside walls. I lived in a wet climate for years and sealing the inside never worked that I know of. Another thing needed may be a drainage tile around the house
     
  3. 635 G

    635 G Well-Known Member

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    If you dig down on the outside, cover the surface with hydraulic cement, it cures under water; however, it cures very fast. I used it for some marine repairs.

    Phil Berkowitz
     
  4. rebelace

    rebelace TS Member

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    on inside see your sherwin williams paint store they have a great product for sealing walls but after 45 years you have to do it again and if you do exterior tar the walls and put in a drainage system
     
  5. Mark-in-Maine

    Mark-in-Maine Member

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    This really works.
    It cured a wet basement problem for me.

    Mark
     
  6. Auctioneer

    Auctioneer Well-Known Member

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    With my house I dug out to the base of the foundation. I then power washed the wall so all dirt was removed. I had the wall parged(sp) put a layer of cement. Both the wall and foundation. I also made sure there was an angle on the base so water drains off. Once it hardened I put roofing tar on it. About a 1/2 inch. I then put the blue sheets of foam over the wall and tar paper over the foundation base. I then put drain pipe in to drain any and all water away from the foundation base. I also put around the pipe filter paper to catch all dirt that will come down to it. I have the pipe go down hill till I have it draining in a field. If you have the money fill in the area around the house with gravel. If you can't do that put about a foot of gravel on top of the pipe and then again put filter paper on top of the gravel and dirt on top of that. You do not want dirt to start going in the pipe because it will fill in the pipe and become useless and you will have to start all over again. This works well and its cheap to do.
     
  7. grunt

    grunt TS Supporters TS Supporters

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    Google french drain. This is what Auctioner is talking about.
     
  8. phirel

    phirel TS Member

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    If the problem is standing water in the trap house, digging a drain through the front wall might be simpler that exposing and sealing the outside walls of the house. It is not easy to seal leaks from the inside of a trap house. A sump pump would also work but would be in the way inside the house. If the problem is just dampness, and not standing water, ventilation would take care of things. Raising the dirt level 6 inches next to the house and lowering the level a foot from the house would form a surface drain that would help more than sealing the inside of the house.

    Pat Ireland
     
  9. jbmi

    jbmi Well-Known Member

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    I use this FlexSheet on homes that could see water problems during a spring thaw or heavy summer rains.
    www.dmxplastics.com
    Next best thing is to wrap the outside with Ice/Watershield (any home improvement store)
     
  10. hmb

    hmb Well-Known Member

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    Epoxy paint. HMB
     
  11. jbmi

    jbmi Well-Known Member

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    The problems with paint, tar, parge coats is they do waterproof, but if block or conc. settle some and small cracks occur, those products are worthless because they'll crack along with the block/concrete.
    If you wrap the exterior with the correct flexible sheathing, it will not crack if the block/conc. does.
     
  12. trappypappy

    trappypappy Member

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    On the inside of our trap house, we had the same problem.
    We coated the inside with "Quickcrete Hydraulic Water-Stop Cement".
    Cleaned the walls off and spread it on by hand (with rubber gloves).
    The sump pump has not came on since!
     
  13. Setterman

    Setterman Well-Known Member

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    You are trying to treat a gound water and grading problem with "coatings" which is not a good solution. Expansion and contraction will re-open the cracks over time.

    Instead of covering the walls, you should either re-grade around the area to get the ground water away from the trap houses, or use a trencher and install a french drain around the trap houses and divert the water to a ditch, or catch basin, or away from your trap field.

    This is a diificult thing to answer without seeing the lay of the land.
     
  14. Auctioneer

    Auctioneer Well-Known Member

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    Setterman go and read my post on french drain.
     
  15. Setterman

    Setterman Well-Known Member

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    Auctioneer, I read your post before I commented. You were waterproofing a basement, which needs to be absolutely dry. A little water in a trap house is not a big deal, and gun clubs are usually hurting for money. There is no need to parge, insulate, and tar the walls. They just need to get the water away from the walls either by regrading or a french drain. A french drain normally doesn't have any pipe in it, just stone. Thats why it is easy and cheap...dig a trench and fill it with stone. Grade the bottom the trench for fall.

    I've helped put in a few traphouses and we never had to put any drainage in. We always graded the area around it so the water ran away from the houses, but thats not always possible. Obviously, if your building a new traphouse, it makes more sense to take extra precautions with tar and 6 mill visqueen over the outside of the wall.
     
  16. Beretta Blue

    Beretta Blue TS Member

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    Flagler Gun Club has 2 block trap houses that leaked when the summer rains came. I own a construction materials testing lab. Euclid Chemical is a customer of ours. I called there main office and spoke to a technical rep. he recomended Eucoseal (I think that was the name). It's applied on the inside of the walls like stucco and no more problems, a great product. Call them, nice people.

    Jack
     
  17. Auctioneer

    Auctioneer Well-Known Member

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    Setterman, I read your post and I understand what your saying. People who work with me always say I over do things but they also say I do it right. I don't like to do things twice. I rather let the next gen worry about it. LOL. Doing a trap house is an easy thing to do compared to a house. Three or four club memebrs could dig it out in one day or less. The same club members could do the other work also. I did most of the work on my house myself. 75 feet of walls and about 5.5 feet deep of digging. Dug by hand, no backhoe. Something I will not be doing again because of age now. I know what your saying about cost and club money. I was on a shoe string budget on what I had to do but I got it finished. All clubs have the guys who has a gun in one hand and a hammer and saw in the other looking to help out their club. Having the members do the work will be far cheaper then hiring someone to do it. I couldn't afford to have paid someone to do the work and thats why I did it myself.
     
  18. Setterman

    Setterman Well-Known Member

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    Auctioneer, 4 months ago we re-roofed my parents house. I just recovered. Never again.

    I hope you were digging thru sand and not heavy clay!
     
  19. Auctioneer

    Auctioneer Well-Known Member

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    Red clay and at points wet red clay. FUN FUN Hope your recovering from your roofing job. We just reroofed our house with a metal roof 4700 square feet. That we had someone else do because of the importance of the roof.
     
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