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Rust on rib - 1187 LC target barrel

Discussion in 'Uncategorized Threads' started by dmarbell, Jul 13, 2007.

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  1. dmarbell

    dmarbell Active Member

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    My 1187 light contour target barrel has developed a strange rust problem on the top of the rib. I noticed a spot some time ago, not pitting, just powdery orange rust. I oiled it well and rubbed off as much as possible. It wasn't easy to remove, with the grooves in the top of the rib. I cleaned and oiled the entire gun well, including I thought the entire top of the rib. Today I noticed another larger spot in a different location.

    I've been keeping the gun in a cheap Dokosport case, with foam padding. It's been in the house some, but also in the garage some in humid central NC. That part can be cured, I guess, by keeping it inside and putting some dehumidifier of some sort in the case.

    How do you get rid of the rust from the top of a rib, with the wavy grooves? I have it resting upright and level with a layer of oil on the top of the rib.

    By the way, there is no rust anywhere else on this gun, just the top of the rib. Another gun was kept in the case with the 1187, and it has no rust on it anywhere. None of my other guns have ever had any rust on them. I'm not the most obsessive-compulsive person in the world regarding storing guns, but they are always kept cleaned and oiled well enough. I have a 1969 Wingmaster that was stored without a case for twenty years, well cleaned and oiled, and has not one spot of rust on it.

    Danny
     
  2. jnoemanh

    jnoemanh TS Member

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    "I have a 1969 Wingmaster that was stored without a case for twenty years, well cleaned and oiled, and has not one spot of rust on it."

    I think you've answered your own question. That foam padding can hold atmospheric moisture for a long time, and create a high humidity chamber. A gun which is oiled and stored out the case in an indoor closet is much less likely to rust. If you want to cover it while in storage, I'd use just a gun sock. Remington makes some which are impregnated with silicone rust preventive. Less than $10 at WalMart.

    The fine fluting on the rib can hold the remains of fingerprints (which contain salt), and you don't get that removed when you wipe it down. Any tiny bit of salt will attract moisture from the air during high humidity, and there are many times in NC when the humidity in your garage is 100%. Salt is a great catalyst for rust.

    I'll bet on some high humidity days in NC, especially in the morning, you've seen water condensing on your car or other metal objects in the garage.

    If it were my gun, I'd do this. Use a clean drying solvent (mineral spirits will do), and remove all the oil. Salt isn't soluble in solvent, so then wash the barrel in warm water to remove any trace of salt. Quickly dry it as best you can with clean rags or paper towels, then force dry it with the wife's hair dryer. Then oil it with your favorite rust preventive (WD40 will work) using an old tooth brush to remove any traces of orange rust in the rib. Don't use wire brushes or anything harsher than a toothbrush or you may rub through the blueing which is very thin.

    Slip it into the gun sock and store it in an inside closet, under the bed, or somewhere in the heated/cooled area of the house.

    Good luck.
     
  3. dmarbell

    dmarbell Active Member

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    jnoemanh,

    Thanks for the advice.

    Wife's hair dryer. I'm a modern man, like the vid above. And remember, I'm in NC.

    hahahahahahaha

    Danny
     
  4. jnoemanh

    jnoemanh TS Member

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    "I'm a modern man, like the vid above."

    But are you as purty?
     
  5. dmarbell

    dmarbell Active Member

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    You decide for yourself. Chokes have been sold, sunglasses and hat could be had for the right price.

    Danny
     
  6. dmarbell

    dmarbell Active Member

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    Pat, I actually did have six. The sixth is on a different appendage, not suitable for viewing in mixed company. It is the "cylinder" or "most open" choke, of course.

    Danny
     
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