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Ruger 22 auto cleaning

Discussion in 'Shooting Related Threads' started by GoldEx, Jun 28, 2011.

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  1. GoldEx

    GoldEx Active Member

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    22 Auto what? Mark Series Pistol or 10/22 Rifle?

    JK
     
  2. V10

    V10 Well-Known Member

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    I'm assuming you mean a Ruger pistol. Like a MkI or MkII.

    The only tricky part is putting the bolt stop pin assembly back in.

    Look for some youtube videos to see how to do it. It's not difficult, but it's easier to see than explain.
     
  3. primed

    primed Well-Known Member

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    I hope it's not a 22/45. They're a PITA even with a video.

    Bob
     
  4. dbart1948

    dbart1948 Member

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    Strate 174RR - I concur with V10. Go to "You Tube" and do a search. The videos were very helpful and I managed to finally put my Ruger back together.

    Another valuable resource site is www.rugerforum.com. Just like TS.com., this site is dedicated to Ruger firearms.

    Dave
     
  5. CLP101

    CLP101 TS Member

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    Once you get it the first time its pretty easy. Not sure how to explain but its more finesse than procedure. GOOD LUCK!
     
  6. sliverbulletexpress

    sliverbulletexpress TS Member

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    We still don't know which model he wants to clean.
     
  7. sliverbulletexpress

    sliverbulletexpress TS Member

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    I have to add that some of those youtube how to videos are done by fellows who don't know much about what they are preaching. There is a lot of good info on 22's at www.rimfirecentral.com it's kinda the ts.com of the rimfire world. There are some very knowledgeable people on there.
     
  8. V10

    V10 Well-Known Member

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    I have a little more time now, so I'll type it out.

    To disassemble a MkI or MkII you have to fold out the mainspring housing latch. A paper clip works well for that. Kind of like opening a pocket knife.

    With the latch swung out you can pivot out the mainspring housing assembly and then pull down to remove the mainspring housing/bolt stop pin assembly.

    Then just smack the back of the bolt/barrel with the heel of your hand and the bolt/barrel should come off.

    The squarish piece of metal sitting in the frame is the hammer. Hanging down from the back/bottom of the hammer is the hammer strut. The hammer strut is the thing that causes all the problems with re-assembly.

    The "trick" to reassembly is making sure that the hammer strut is hanging down freely on the back side of the frame cross pin.

    With the barrel/bolt back on the frame, make sure that the hammer strut is hanging freely, hold the pistol with the barrel horizontal and push the bolt stop pin back up through the barrel/bolt.

    Rotate the pistol so that the muzzle is at about a 45 degree angle and the grip is now rotated upward (essentially turn the pistol upside down).

    The hammer strut should flop down against a groove in the mainspring housing.

    Now just rotate the mainspring housing back into the grip and fold the latch back flush with the housing/grip and you're done. Make sure when you rotate it that the bolt stop pin stays snugly up in the bolt stop pin hole. I usually put a little "upward" pressure on it to make sure it doesn't back out.

    Turning the pistol upside down and making sure the hammer strut is hanging freely and not caught behind the frame cross pin is the "trick."
     
  9. pyrdek

    pyrdek Well-Known Member

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    Only because of the safety training and people getting shot "while cleaning the gun",

    STEP 1
    WITH THE MUZZLE POINTED IN A SAFE DIRECTION, CHECK TO INSURE THAT THE PISTOL IS UNLOADED WITH NO ROUND IN THE CHAMBER AND THE MAGAZINE REMOVED!
     
  10. grntitan

    grntitan Well-Known Member

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    You guys crack me up. Your arguing about cleaning a gun and none of you actually know what kind of Ruger the OP has. Not saying i do but since he didn't say, we would all just be guessing. LOL
     
  11. School Teacher

    School Teacher Well-Known Member

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  12. V10

    V10 Well-Known Member

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    Well, Matt, since almost all of the questions about problems related to assembly/disassembly of a Ruger semi-auto 22 are in reference to the MkI and MkII, I played the odds and posted information related to the problem area for those models.

    If his problem turns out to be related to a 10/22, then my information won't be of much use to him. But I'm sure he'll figure that out pretty quickly.
     
  13. grntitan

    grntitan Well-Known Member

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    V10--I didn't say the arguements were wasteful. There was some good info provided. We just don't know what if any of it applys. Just poking at you guys for fun anyway. I meant no harm. Apologize if anyone took it as such.
     
  14. leadvail

    leadvail Member

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    Make sure it's unloaded first. I have heard of at least 3 cops in the news the last few years shooting themselves cleaning a loaded gun.

    Bob
     
  15. late bloomer

    late bloomer TS Member

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    When I was in Bullseye, the rule seemed to be leave the barrel of a good pistol alone unless something awful has happened to it. Even a slight nick could harm its accuracy. There really isn't much to clean out of the barrel, A copper headed bullet should clear out any very small amount of lead. There is a Bullseye blog on the internet. Try looking around it.
     
  16. grntitan

    grntitan Well-Known Member

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    You win Scott. Very impressive assuming. :)
     
  17. V10

    V10 Well-Known Member

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    Nah, the odds were heavily in my favor. Something on the order of 5,000 to 1.

    What will be impressive is if he reports back that my instructions were useful. LOL
     
  18. GoldEx

    GoldEx Active Member

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    Anyone that has ever owned one of these models of pistol has gone through the learning of the "Trick" as V10 puts it. The bolt will go in and the gun not function. Very frustrating until you make the reassembly process part of your long term memory. His directions are spot on.

    Jeff
     
  19. sliverbulletexpress

    sliverbulletexpress TS Member

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    V10 forgot to mention that the hammer needs to be uncocked when dis and re assembling. Also remove the bolt after you remove the bolt lock and then bump the upper off the lower.
     
  20. V10

    V10 Well-Known Member

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    Yes, SBE, I left a lot of things out. That's because a lot of things are covered in the manual or the on-line videos. What's not covered in the manual is how to make the reassembly easier. But I didn't "forget" anything.

    Yes, you need to pull the trigger to uncock the hammer. AFTER, of course, ascertaining that the pistol is unloaded by removing the magazine and pulling the bolt to the rear.

    However, the bolt does not need to be removed from the barrel for you get the barrel off the frame. But it can be removed once the bolt stop pin is removed.

    Keep in mind that the problem all of us have had is with the hammer strut not being in the proper position upon reassembly. That was the point of my post. Just that one specific area. It was never intended to be a start to finish "How to strip and reassmble a Ruger MkI tutorial." After all, the OP asked for "any tricks that could make this task easier." And that's what I gave him. RIF.
     
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