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Removing a stripped set screw?

Discussion in 'Shooting Related Threads' started by 635 G, Feb 27, 2012.

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  1. 635 G

    635 G Well-Known Member

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    Got a stripped set screw in one of my comb ajusters. look for advice on the easy way to remove it.

    Phil Berkowitz
     
  2. Auctioneer

    Auctioneer Well-Known Member

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    Just take it to a gunsmith. He has the know how and the tools. All your going to to do is regret not doing so if you try to fix it yourself.
     
  3. Tron

    Tron Supporting Vendor Supporting Vendor

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    Small drill bit and an easy out.
     
  4. jhoward

    jhoward Member

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    Take an old allen wrench, put a small drop of superglue on the tip, insert it into the stripped screw, let it set up, remove screw.
     
  5. Dickgshot

    Dickgshot Well-Known Member

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    Knowing the stocks you put on your guns, Auctioneer has the best advice
     
  6. postmastertim

    postmastertim Wheels are falling off.... TS Supporters

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    I had to use a ball end hex key in metric, as a standard one had rounded mine out.

    Tim
     
  7. TOOLMAKER 251

    TOOLMAKER 251 Active Member

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    If the hex is rolled it,'s due to over tightening. Learn how to torque in inch pounds, not foot pounds and stay away from stainless steel set screws, they will be the 1st. to crack in the hex wall, then each time you try to loosen your spreading the thread even tighter. Drill the faulty set screw out.
     
  8. mag410

    mag410 Active Member

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    Grind the tip of a proper size hex wrench so it is nice an square, leave the burrs, often the square edge and burrs will gain enough "bite" to loosen the set-screw.

    Michael Goines
     
  9. Vertas

    Vertas TS Member

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    Try using a small Left hand drill it will also work as an easy out, just take your time.
     
  10. Auctioneer

    Auctioneer Well-Known Member

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    One thing that has hepled me from stripping out a screw is USE A GOOD ALLEN TOOL. Don't use the cheap crap use a good AMERICAN MADE TOOL. Good steel. I'm sure there are better ones out there but I buy Snap-On and they have worked well for me.
     
  11. PAR8HED

    PAR8HED Member

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    Tron - I'm thinking it, and you said it. Auctioneer, IMHO nothing beats Snap-on.

    HJH
     
  12. folothru

    folothru Member

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    put a little grease on your set screw to start with and you will be able to tighten it more than a"dry" set screw especialy in aluminum frame.....then you wont ever have the need to put the gorilla twist on your set screw
     
  13. CalvinMD

    CalvinMD Well-Known Member

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    If you have the proper size Torx bit that will fit in the hex head snugly, sometimes you can get it to hold enough to break it loose and spin out...you just got to stay pushed in tight and square and it should get it out for you to replace it
     
  14. klf

    klf Member

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    If the set screw is in aluminum simply apply a small amount of heat to the aluminum while trying any of the methods listed above. Aluminum expands more than steel and it may make the job a little easier. Good luck
     
  15. 635 G

    635 G Well-Known Member

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    Torx with crazy glue did the trick

    Thanx

    Phil Berkowitz
     
  16. Unknown1

    Unknown1 Well-Known Member

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    <blockquote><I>"Don't use the cheap crap use a good AMERICAN MADE TOOL. Good steel. I'm sure there are better ones out there but I buy Snap-On and they have worked well for me."

    "Auctioneer, IMHO nothing beats Snap-on.</i></blockquote>Snap-on tools do work well in most cases but it's a shame that many of them are not made in the USA anymore. I have file sets made in Portugal, pullers from Taiwan and chisels from the UK. I originally found out about it in the Snap-On entry here: <I>Still Made in the USA.com</I>

    Go into the Snap-On web site on-line catalog and check for yourself. Every tool in their on-line catalog lists the country of origin for that tool. An example... sorry:<center>
    [​IMG]
    </center>

    Keller
     
  17. wm rike

    wm rike Member

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    Folothru - Each size and pitch of threads has a specified make-up torque and that torque is based on the threads being dry (unplated and unlubricated). The specified torque goes down with lube and/or plating, in some instances as much as 50%. There are tables for this.
     
  18. LUGNUTZ426

    LUGNUTZ426 TS Member

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    I am surprised that a "TECHNITE" had such issues with things of a mechanical nature!

    Joe 72
     
  19. 635 G

    635 G Well-Known Member

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    Getting it out was the issue---destroying a beautifull piece of wood was the issue

    Phil Berkowitz Brooklyn Tech 59"
     
  20. CalvinMD

    CalvinMD Well-Known Member

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    Glad that worked for you Phil!!
     
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